Okay everyone, I know my last blog was lengthy, hopefully not looked upon as protracting but informative. I will go a little lighter for this one - ah, only just a bit. I understand most like short and sweet subject matters on the internet, but my writings seem to always be the opposite. This is my third and last blog of the “Grooming” series; then off to relaxing a bit and collecting thoughts for the next posts of winter topics.
What is a Well- Maintained Horse?
... one that portrays a healthy mental, physical and emotional reflection of the magnificent creature we call horse. These aspects are illustrated honorably through gallant strength, noble loyalty and majestic beauty. This vision represents the essential qualities of a truly vigorous and beautiful horse. They are achieved by the horse owner's countless exertions in delivering the responsibilities required through internal and external efforts. An appropriate management program, encouragement of a horse's natural behaviors along with a good partner relationship accomplishes a "well-maintained" horse. First, a good management program covers a wide range of practices in supplying your horse; from a suitable facility to the necessities needed to remain healthy. Second, a proper environment produced by the horse owner that supports the horse's natural behaviors thus allowing him the liberties to be a horse. And lastly, the two together, horse and human build a relationship through trust and respect. The last one goes hand and hand with the first two so, while you constantly continue with the first two, the third will always be evolving. Proper ethical conditions and treatments contribute greatly to the creation of a well-maintained horse.
One gratifying journey for me is to polish all these efforts in a way that can be expressed through my horses. A worthy grooming/bathing system offers many benefits for both horse and human. This practice offers another way for us to learn and understand each other; more time together to construct our future. In the majority of attitudes I have seen, horse caretakers view their horse through a filter of their own desires, rather than the “well being” of the species. The horse itself must be considered in order to ever possibly reach the absolute well-maintained horse. Harmonize the management and freedom of your horse. Learn to fulfill the intricacies he requires as an individual horse, and enable yourself to acquire the ability to teach him functional patterns to produce your desires from him. In doing so, you will create the best horse you can imagine - a partner who is stable, well-mannered, co-operative, and affectionate, with an open, communicative personality that is curious and quick to learn. Through knowledge, you act, and through understanding, you teach. These skills reflect the power to balance the different worlds of horse and human. Once you achieve and maintain the internal necessaries of mind, body and soul of your horse, you can polish it externally and your horse will portray its harmonious health through an outward shine of beauty.
When channeled in the right direction, a horse's power provides great service and great pleasure. Mismanagement of this power is not only costly, but can be instead a source of great harm, injury and death. For both human and horse to have a safe and healthy relationship, it is extremely important to stay focused on establishing a serious bond. Building this relationship requires responsibilities for both partners. The horse needs to learn how to be familiar with your actions and to understand what his contribution to the relationship will be. You need to think safety and exercise caution whenever you interact with a horse and learn your horse's behaviors.
Understanding horse behavior is a step towards connecting the different world they live in with ours. We choose to be a part of their world and if you consider their needs properly, they may be more inclined to be a part of yours. I realized early on that the horse must be treated with respect in order to achieve my goals. It is not just about me, but both of us. Through my studies, I ran across an organization, White Horse Equine Ethology Project (W.H.E.E.P.), this organization emphasizes the importance of ethical treatment to the species. Through years of experiments, they arrived at freedoms the species must acquire, from man, in order to remain "healthy" mentally, physically and emotionally. We should graciously provide these five fundamental freedoms to a horse since we choose to interject ourselves into their lives. In addition, we should have an informed, educated and humane philosophy that truly serves as a guide every horseman should use in attaining an ethical partnership and a well-maintained horse.
THE FIVE FREEDOMS
Freedom from hunger and thirst by allowing access to fresh water and a complete diet to maintain a healthy vigorous horse
~~~~~~~~~~
Freedom from discomfort by providing the appropriate surroundings including a safe and secure environment, adequate shelter and a comfortable resting area
~~~~~~~~~~
Freedom form pain, injury or disease by prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment
~~~~~~~~~~
Freedom to express normal behavior by providing ample liberty, the proper facilities and company of the animal's own kind
~~~~~~~~~~
Freedom from fear and distress by ensuring conditions and treatment, which avoid mental, physical and emotional suffering
~~~~~~~~~~
The attitude expressed in the 5 freedoms provides doors to entering the world of the horse.
Open them and your journeys will be endless roads filled with intrigue and gratification, for
both you and your horse. Bathing can be used as one avenue to build the relationship.
The attitude expressed in the 5 freedoms provides doors to entering the world of the horse.
Open them and your journeys will be endless roads filled with intrigue and gratification, for
both you and your horse. Bathing can be used as one avenue to build the relationship.
Basic Bathing
This blog pertains to those who know their horse will accept bathing. If your horse has not been prepared, do not attempt this task without a skilled person or until you receive further knowledge and training.
Basic Bathing
Fall is here and the change in weather will not permit an extensive bath described in this blog unless of course, your climate is different or you have a climate-controlled facility. I am just now getting this posted and hopefully the information will assist someone now or possibly in the warmer days that always lie ahead. Just a tip to remember, washing your horse with shampoos not only removes the dirt but, the natural oils too. Therefore, limit the frequency of bathing to allow the beneficial oils to remain. Sometimes time may not warrant a complete bath. Below are some fleeting remedies for these instances and a few approaches to other related situations.
Preparation:
Prepare supplies in advance for the bath. Be sure to pick a warm day and use warm water. Consider your clothing, you will get wet!
There are a few approaches one may choose to bath a horse. Options like with or without a bucket, sponge, rag, etc., are up to individual, there is no rule. Decide the best method where you and your horse are most comfortable.
If necessary, tie your horse securely and safely in an area that will not get muddy. Think about the movements you and your horse could make on slippery ground and use precautions that would prevent either of you from falling. As I have mentioned before, I am not a fan of cross tying. This practice can be dangerous, so be careful you use it.
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Use a gentle shampoo/conditioner or one that suits your horse’s particular needs. For homemade shampoo recipes/remedies - See blog... "Grooming Tools/Supplies - A Road Traveled ”. Depending on the situation, it may be necessary to periodically wash your horse with a mixture of iodine scrub and water (2 parts iodine scrub: 1 part water). Tsar is susceptible to insect bites and this remedy helps in the prevention of an infection. When I use this treatment, the iodine mixture remains on him for about 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing. I have various shampoo recipes/remedies that are available if needed. They are all labeled and stored in reused 128oz cranberry juice containers. Two ounce pumps are affixed to each container and can be transferred easily into a squeeze bottle (reused dish soap bottle or condiment container) as needed. 
This system applies to the conditioners, oils, and other treatments as well. Note: To conserve your shampoos, conditioners, etc, spray bottles can be used in place of squeeze bottles.
Groom your horse before the bath. This removes the heavy soil and any debris making the bath less laborious. Pay attention to your horse’s body language throughout the process. Learn to understand his language when he attempts to communicate so that you can perceive the situation correctly. Take your time and teach him to be well-mannered. With empathy and repetition, your horse will understand how to be respectful, even if becomes necessary to correct his behavior.
Preparing for the bath, an adjustable spray nozzle on the end of the hose with a shut off control is a personal preference. Controlling the shut off of the water as well as the pressure amount is both economical and Eco-friendly. Consider the pressure of the water making it comfortable to the horse’s skin. Use warm water, let your horse see the hose and smell and or mouth it, if necessary - of course not to the point where he controls it. If this is an issue, one can try reversing the psychology and give the horse what it wants. With energy (a bit more than what the horse is exerting) push the hose in its mouth and move it around. You will find that your horse is no longer interested and will refrain from his attempts to dominate the hose. Now, back to bathing, stand facing your horse’s shoulder area, spray the ground at your horse’s feet allowing him to acquaint himself with what is about to happen. Slowly and gently, proceed to apply water to his front feet. Let him adjust to this action and the water temperature. Continue up his front leg, shoulder and neck, down the back, include the belly then to the dock. Proceed down his hind leg to his hoof. Continue pattern on the other side. Now, stand facing the horse’s hip area, cautiously saturate the tail and lift tail to spray the anal area and the areas below.
Once the horse is completely wet, squeeze shampoo into your palm, onto your horse, sponge or into a bucket, etc. whichever you prefer. Using circular motions, scrub your horse starting at the neck and include the mane and crown. Pay particular attention to the crown, down the spine to the dock area. Continue applying shampoo when needed and proceed to the belly and legs, covering the entire body. A good massage with my hands and fingers at this stage is in store for my horses. Sometimes I will bring out the people back-scratcher, giving them a nice round of scratching. They both love their scratches! Now, on to the tail, and by this time, another hosing will be necessary to saturate. Squeeze the shampoo directly onto the tail or submerge the tail into a sudsy bucket – you will need help for that one! Scrub the tail good with your fingers, like one would do to their own scalp/hair and include the entire tailbone. Gently, wash the anal area and one can continue with areas below.
You will need to clean the teats if you have a mare and clean the sheath if you have a gelding. These areas need cleaning regularly. Geldings and stallions build up grime called smegma inside the sheath, which can cause discomfort and infection. For a gelding, a minimum of once a year but twice is considered best. If it is not something you are comfortable doing yourself, enlist your veterinarian to clean your horse’s sheath during his or her annual visit. For a mare, it may be necessary to clean more often. Make it a regular part of your bathing routine or clean more often if your mare/gelding is particularly prone to collecting dirt. Stallions will require more frequent cleaning. Addressing these procedures will be future topics.
Depending on how dirty the horse, a second application of shampoo may be necessary.
Repeat these steps when using a conditioner on your horse after shampooing.
Do not let areas dry out on your horse until you finish washing him entirely. Keep your horse moist by applying more water, use a light spray adjustment on the nozzle.
Wet down, shampoo, scrub and rinse one side of your horse at a time. Then repeat on other side.
Most horses do not like to have water squirted at their face. A more comfortable approach to washing the face; a bucket filled with clean soapy* warm water and a rag, sponge, etc. Using the applicator of your choice, dip it in the bucket and wring out. Gently wipe the face around the eyes, then inside the ears, mouth and nostrils. Now, rinse these areas with the applicator using fresh clean warm water.
* go sparingly with the shampoo
When rinsing your horse use warm water from the hose, wet him down thoroughly starting at the neck, and follow his body down the back, shoulders to tail and down the legs. Leave no shampoo/ conditioner residue; if left in it may cause the hair to dry out, resulting in a dull looking coat and or irritation.
Tip: This is a good time to rub off the dead cells of your horse’s chestnuts and ergots with your fingernails. See ...“Horse Grooming - Behaviors”
With a sweat scraper or your hand, scrape away the excess water on your horse. Pay particular attention to under the belly, all the water collects there. Dry him with clean rags and or take to a sunny spot (weather permitting) and the two of you can just mosey until the horse dries.
Tip: Do not put him out wet; he will probably roll.
If necessary, tie your horse securely and safely in an area that will not get muddy. Think about the movements you and your horse could make on slippery ground and use precautions that would prevent either of you from falling. As I have mentioned before, I am not a fan of cross tying. This practice can be dangerous, so be careful you use it.
Shampooing / Conditioning:
This system applies to the conditioners, oils, and other treatments as well. Note: To conserve your shampoos, conditioners, etc, spray bottles can be used in place of squeeze bottles. Groom your horse before the bath. This removes the heavy soil and any debris making the bath less laborious. Pay attention to your horse’s body language throughout the process. Learn to understand his language when he attempts to communicate so that you can perceive the situation correctly. Take your time and teach him to be well-mannered. With empathy and repetition, your horse will understand how to be respectful, even if becomes necessary to correct his behavior.
Preparing for the bath, an adjustable spray nozzle on the end of the hose with a shut off control is a personal preference. Controlling the shut off of the water as well as the pressure amount is both economical and Eco-friendly. Consider the pressure of the water making it comfortable to the horse’s skin. Use warm water, let your horse see the hose and smell and or mouth it, if necessary - of course not to the point where he controls it. If this is an issue, one can try reversing the psychology and give the horse what it wants. With energy (a bit more than what the horse is exerting) push the hose in its mouth and move it around. You will find that your horse is no longer interested and will refrain from his attempts to dominate the hose. Now, back to bathing, stand facing your horse’s shoulder area, spray the ground at your horse’s feet allowing him to acquaint himself with what is about to happen. Slowly and gently, proceed to apply water to his front feet. Let him adjust to this action and the water temperature. Continue up his front leg, shoulder and neck, down the back, include the belly then to the dock. Proceed down his hind leg to his hoof. Continue pattern on the other side. Now, stand facing the horse’s hip area, cautiously saturate the tail and lift tail to spray the anal area and the areas below.
Once the horse is completely wet, squeeze shampoo into your palm, onto your horse, sponge or into a bucket, etc. whichever you prefer. Using circular motions, scrub your horse starting at the neck and include the mane and crown. Pay particular attention to the crown, down the spine to the dock area. Continue applying shampoo when needed and proceed to the belly and legs, covering the entire body. A good massage with my hands and fingers at this stage is in store for my horses. Sometimes I will bring out the people back-scratcher, giving them a nice round of scratching. They both love their scratches! Now, on to the tail, and by this time, another hosing will be necessary to saturate. Squeeze the shampoo directly onto the tail or submerge the tail into a sudsy bucket – you will need help for that one! Scrub the tail good with your fingers, like one would do to their own scalp/hair and include the entire tailbone. Gently, wash the anal area and one can continue with areas below.
You will need to clean the teats if you have a mare and clean the sheath if you have a gelding. These areas need cleaning regularly. Geldings and stallions build up grime called smegma inside the sheath, which can cause discomfort and infection. For a gelding, a minimum of once a year but twice is considered best. If it is not something you are comfortable doing yourself, enlist your veterinarian to clean your horse’s sheath during his or her annual visit. For a mare, it may be necessary to clean more often. Make it a regular part of your bathing routine or clean more often if your mare/gelding is particularly prone to collecting dirt. Stallions will require more frequent cleaning. Addressing these procedures will be future topics.
Depending on how dirty the horse, a second application of shampoo may be necessary.
Repeat these steps when using a conditioner on your horse after shampooing.
Tips from the Trail:
Do not let areas dry out on your horse until you finish washing him entirely. Keep your horse moist by applying more water, use a light spray adjustment on the nozzle.
Wet down, shampoo, scrub and rinse one side of your horse at a time. Then repeat on other side.
Most horses do not like to have water squirted at their face. A more comfortable approach to washing the face; a bucket filled with clean soapy* warm water and a rag, sponge, etc. Using the applicator of your choice, dip it in the bucket and wring out. Gently wipe the face around the eyes, then inside the ears, mouth and nostrils. Now, rinse these areas with the applicator using fresh clean warm water.
* go sparingly with the shampoo
Rinsing:
When rinsing your horse use warm water from the hose, wet him down thoroughly starting at the neck, and follow his body down the back, shoulders to tail and down the legs. Leave no shampoo/ conditioner residue; if left in it may cause the hair to dry out, resulting in a dull looking coat and or irritation.
Wow you are almost done!
Tip: This is a good time to rub off the dead cells of your horse’s chestnuts and ergots with your fingernails. See ...“Horse Grooming - Behaviors”
With a sweat scraper or your hand, scrape away the excess water on your horse. Pay particular attention to under the belly, all the water collects there. Dry him with clean rags and or take to a sunny spot (weather permitting) and the two of you can just mosey until the horse dries.
Tip: Do not put him out wet; he will probably roll.
It is time to brush him out entirely from head to hoof and step back and look at your successful trip!
Recipes / Remedies:
1)
Use baby wipes for cleaning faces to teats. They are cheaper than the wipes that are made specifically for horse grooming and they work just as well.
2)
Instead of buying expensive horse shampoos, just use a mild dish soap or mild human hair shampoo. Any kid’s no tear shampoo works great since it is mild and does not sting when it gets in eyes.
3)
Give your horse a "Dry Bath". Fill your bucket with very warm water and add 3 drops of baby oil. Place rag in water and squeeze out excess; rub horse down. Then dry your horse with a clean dry rag. A lot of dirt will be removed and the horse will look clean and shiny. The horse smells like baby oil and they love the rub down. Note: Groom first.
4)
For a non-drying better than show-sheen shine, fill a small bucket with warm water, a splash of apple cider vinegar and a light squeeze of baby oil. Use a washrag and wring it out real well, then rub over the horse until they are gleaming. The vinegar cuts the baby oil just enough so that the horse is not greasy. The coat will shine! Note: Groom first.
5)
For scurfy coats, Treat with a Blend of Rosemary:
- Add approximately ½ pint of water to 1 tablespoonful of dried rosemary
- Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 minutes
- Remove from the heat and keeping covered, leave for 5 to 6 hours or overnight
- Strain off the rosemary and use the liquid as a rinse after shampooing
Can be used on mane and tail
Variation:
Mix above blend with a little castor oil which stimulates long and supple hair growth. Apply as a rinse after shampooing, message well, then rinse.
Can be used on mane and tail
6)
Remove scruff by rubbing area(s) with a cloth soaked in witch hazel
For White Legs:
7)
Get socks gleaming white with a mixture of Dawn dish soap, Liquid Bluing and a tablespoon of bleach. Mix in warm water in a small bucket, and paint on with a sponge. Rinse out. Note: Clean one leg at a time.
8)
Another great leg whitener: blue stone (copper of sulfate). This gravel actually has a blue tone. Put some in a bucket, add about an equal amount of water and then apply the water to the legs, enough to coat the white area so the legs look blue. Let it sit for a little while and hose off. Legs will be white. Note: Clean one leg at a time.
9)
For white legs that are bathed often, dissolve half a bar of Castile soap in hot water and scrub away. The soap cleans and whitens the legs and has natural conditioners so that it does not dry out the skin.
10)
Pat cornstarch with a sponge onto wet, thoroughly shampooed and rinsed white legs. When dry, brush off and it will leave the legs sparkling white. It can be used on other white markings, but most horses will not like it on their faces. The cornstarch seems to repel dirt and stable stains too.
11)
Use baking soda and vinegar for small dirt stains. Make a paste of baking soda and a little bit of water and rub it into the stain. Let set and then pour vinegar over it. Foams the stains right out. Rinse and wipe off with a rag.
For Yellow Tails:
12)
Pour white vinegar in a bucket, swish the tail around in it and rinse out after 5-10 minutes. This procedure may need repeating.
13)
Laundry bluing diluted in a bucket of water will help tails get white, be careful not to leave it on too long or you will have a baby blue tail.
14)
Fanci-Full White Minx, found near the hair dye section, will whiten a tail.
15)
For a bad case of “dirty tail”, use hydrogen peroxide. Spray or pour it on the clean tail, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then rinse. May require a few times to get tail truly white, but be sure to THOROUGHLY condition the tail afterward.
For more recipes See...
" Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies"
"Horse Grooming - Behaviors”
Homemade liniments are applied with friction; that is, a liniment is always rubbed in. Liniments are especially useful in hot weather to help a horse cool down: the alcohols added to the acting substances helps them to evaporate quickly, and the oil contents will cause the capillaries in the skin to dilate. Many horse owners apply liniments to the legs as a brace and then wrap over it. In this case, they should be sure that the liniment is not too strong or it may cause blistering of the skin. Liniments may be used on the legs and body, but should not be applied to more sensitive areas such as the head, dock, or groin of the horse. The body may also be too sensitive to apply liniments especially if the horse was recently body-clipped. Liniments can be a great relief for sore muscles.
1)
Wintergreen rubbing alcohol is a great leg brace.
2)
Tea Rinse -
Boil a quart of water with 4-8 tea bags and produce a tea concentrate. Dilute in a bucket with water and vinegar or alcohol. Sponge away. Sometimes I do a quick rinse but most of the time I just sponge it on after hosing the horses off. The alcohol will cool the horse off.
3)
Cucumber Wash* -
Slice 2-3 large cucumbers in a bucket with water. Allow sitting for about an hour and then sponge it on horse. Do not wring the sponge in the bucket but instead just take out the cucumber slices, rinse them off and give it to the horses as treats while sponging them off. My horses love to eat cucumber. Vegetables are healthy and make wonderful treats for your horses. See...Treat with Respect.
*This vegetable has a very high water, silicon, and sodium content, which helps soothe and cool externally as well as an aid in toning and firming the skin, drawing excess water from the tissue reducing puffiness. Internally, fresh cucumber is a source of vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, also providing dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate (folic acid), pantothenic acid (a B complex vitamin that is essential for growth), magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese - wow!.
For a cool weather after ride "wash" - mix up a little of your favorite liniment and water in a spray bottle and spray it on, scrape it off, cover horse with a cooler.
Use baby wipes for cleaning faces to teats. They are cheaper than the wipes that are made specifically for horse grooming and they work just as well.
2)
Instead of buying expensive horse shampoos, just use a mild dish soap or mild human hair shampoo. Any kid’s no tear shampoo works great since it is mild and does not sting when it gets in eyes.
3)
Give your horse a "Dry Bath". Fill your bucket with very warm water and add 3 drops of baby oil. Place rag in water and squeeze out excess; rub horse down. Then dry your horse with a clean dry rag. A lot of dirt will be removed and the horse will look clean and shiny. The horse smells like baby oil and they love the rub down. Note: Groom first.
4)
For a non-drying better than show-sheen shine, fill a small bucket with warm water, a splash of apple cider vinegar and a light squeeze of baby oil. Use a washrag and wring it out real well, then rub over the horse until they are gleaming. The vinegar cuts the baby oil just enough so that the horse is not greasy. The coat will shine! Note: Groom first.
5)
For scurfy coats, Treat with a Blend of Rosemary:
- Add approximately ½ pint of water to 1 tablespoonful of dried rosemary
- Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 minutes
- Remove from the heat and keeping covered, leave for 5 to 6 hours or overnight
- Strain off the rosemary and use the liquid as a rinse after shampooing
Can be used on mane and tail
Variation:
Mix above blend with a little castor oil which stimulates long and supple hair growth. Apply as a rinse after shampooing, message well, then rinse.
Can be used on mane and tail
6)
Remove scruff by rubbing area(s) with a cloth soaked in witch hazel
For White Legs:
7)
Get socks gleaming white with a mixture of Dawn dish soap, Liquid Bluing and a tablespoon of bleach. Mix in warm water in a small bucket, and paint on with a sponge. Rinse out. Note: Clean one leg at a time.
8)
Another great leg whitener: blue stone (copper of sulfate). This gravel actually has a blue tone. Put some in a bucket, add about an equal amount of water and then apply the water to the legs, enough to coat the white area so the legs look blue. Let it sit for a little while and hose off. Legs will be white. Note: Clean one leg at a time.
9)
For white legs that are bathed often, dissolve half a bar of Castile soap in hot water and scrub away. The soap cleans and whitens the legs and has natural conditioners so that it does not dry out the skin.
10)
Pat cornstarch with a sponge onto wet, thoroughly shampooed and rinsed white legs. When dry, brush off and it will leave the legs sparkling white. It can be used on other white markings, but most horses will not like it on their faces. The cornstarch seems to repel dirt and stable stains too.
11)
Use baking soda and vinegar for small dirt stains. Make a paste of baking soda and a little bit of water and rub it into the stain. Let set and then pour vinegar over it. Foams the stains right out. Rinse and wipe off with a rag.
For Yellow Tails:
12)
Pour white vinegar in a bucket, swish the tail around in it and rinse out after 5-10 minutes. This procedure may need repeating.
13)
Laundry bluing diluted in a bucket of water will help tails get white, be careful not to leave it on too long or you will have a baby blue tail.
14)
Fanci-Full White Minx, found near the hair dye section, will whiten a tail.
15)
For a bad case of “dirty tail”, use hydrogen peroxide. Spray or pour it on the clean tail, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then rinse. May require a few times to get tail truly white, but be sure to THOROUGHLY condition the tail afterward.
For more recipes See...
" Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies"
"Horse Grooming - Behaviors”
Liniments:
Homemade liniments are applied with friction; that is, a liniment is always rubbed in. Liniments are especially useful in hot weather to help a horse cool down: the alcohols added to the acting substances helps them to evaporate quickly, and the oil contents will cause the capillaries in the skin to dilate. Many horse owners apply liniments to the legs as a brace and then wrap over it. In this case, they should be sure that the liniment is not too strong or it may cause blistering of the skin. Liniments may be used on the legs and body, but should not be applied to more sensitive areas such as the head, dock, or groin of the horse. The body may also be too sensitive to apply liniments especially if the horse was recently body-clipped. Liniments can be a great relief for sore muscles.
1)
Wintergreen rubbing alcohol is a great leg brace.
Homemade Liniments:
2)
Tea Rinse -
Boil a quart of water with 4-8 tea bags and produce a tea concentrate. Dilute in a bucket with water and vinegar or alcohol. Sponge away. Sometimes I do a quick rinse but most of the time I just sponge it on after hosing the horses off. The alcohol will cool the horse off.
3)
Cucumber Wash* -
Slice 2-3 large cucumbers in a bucket with water. Allow sitting for about an hour and then sponge it on horse. Do not wring the sponge in the bucket but instead just take out the cucumber slices, rinse them off and give it to the horses as treats while sponging them off. My horses love to eat cucumber. Vegetables are healthy and make wonderful treats for your horses. See...Treat with Respect.
*This vegetable has a very high water, silicon, and sodium content, which helps soothe and cool externally as well as an aid in toning and firming the skin, drawing excess water from the tissue reducing puffiness. Internally, fresh cucumber is a source of vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, also providing dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate (folic acid), pantothenic acid (a B complex vitamin that is essential for growth), magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese - wow!.
For a cool weather after ride "wash" - mix up a little of your favorite liniment and water in a spray bottle and spray it on, scrape it off, cover horse with a cooler.
I wanted to bring up an area of concern. Some people ride and or work their horses until they are infused with sweat. Then they spray them down afterwards with cold water. Medical complications could result if human marathon runners engaged in this practice, so why do it to the horse. This is not a good habit to form, especially when the horse is hot and the water cold. This will close the horse’s pores too quickly and may cause a mild case of "Azorturia" (similarities to a very bad case of tying up or founder) which is very painful and can be fatal. It is caused by a concentration of lactic acid in the tissues. The best remedy for cooling down an overheated horse is to walk him around. If you should then choose to hose him down, use only warm water after he has completely cooled off. Start hosing the legs first, then proceed to the chest, neck, withers and shoulders. Finish with the hindquarters and the area over the kidneys.
Once the bath is complete, step back and look at your success!
Go Green Tips:
- economical solution to make your shampoo/conditioner last longer and more convenient too; empty shampoo into a 128oz reused container. Buy a 2oz pump and insert into container.
- reuse onions bags to air dry sponges. Get a long piece of baler's twine and loop it in and out a top line of openings in the bag (same concept as the original tie at top of bag when purchased). To keep twine in place; knot each end of twine by knotting one strand to the opening thread of the bag - repeat on other side. Cut each side of twine to the length desired. Tie knots at opposite ends of twine. Use these threads to hang bag.
- Set outside all clipped, trimmed and shedded hair from your animals, and include yours too. The insect-eating birds love to build their nests with it.
Any Go Green Ideas?
The horse is God's gift to mankind.
Arabian Proverb