Horse Grooming - Behaviors
I have finally received the time necessary to post this second part to my previous blog, "Horse Grooming - Tools and Supplies". My horses are so much a part of me now and every day brings new challenges I eagerly seek to resolve, constantly creating new depths to our relationship. They are amazing creatures totally connected to nature, which fascinates my mind, my soul. The time spent with them, learning the intricacies of their being fulfills my consciousness. Early on, my interests drove me to learn their individual and social behaviors. Watching them interact within a herd clearly depicts a connection amongst them. Their senses are in tune with nature and each other. Their communication is physical yet unspoken. This unspoken language connects the individual horse to the herd and to nature. I realized by way of a language unspoken, we were able to exchange and share our lives with our horses. Every natural behavior is purposeful for their existence. They take only what they need and use everything they take.
Within their structure, grooming serves more purpose for the horse than for our straightforward “clean horse” concept. Grooming is a natural behavior for horses and starts before birth and continues throughout a healthy life. Expressed physically in nature, this behavior is performed individually and on each other. Individually, grooming is usually a reaction to stop the stimuli, but shared mutually it is social communication to engage the stimuli; moreover, both responses are purposeful and beneficial for the horse. Horses choose their grooming partners and they tend to be of comparable rank in the social status within the herds dominance hierarchy. Subordinate individuals appear to groom more and initiate more grooming. The natural behavior of grooming is tactile communication and the main functions are bonding, group cohesion and appeasement.
Horses communicate continuously in a language not spoken with words, but expressed and understood through the senses - sight, sound, smell, touch and taste. Horses are perceptive to their surroundings due to the ability to use their senses with meticulous power. The physical reactions of these capabilities are the means of horse communication. Horses spend a great amount of time sniffing objects using their sense of smell to gather and or transmit information. Finding extensive studies on this topic is scarce and I remain enthusiastically searching. Physical signals of sight and touch are some of the most detailed forms of communication exchanged between horses. There are 4 verbal and 2 non-verbal sounds horses make and their meanings were touched upon in a previous blog, “Horse Behaviors“. Signals exerted from the senses are artfully communicated with precision and is the language horses utilize and understand. Grooming is a natural behavior amongst horses and is communicated successfully to portray a desired mental, physical and or emotional result.
The individual horse grooms itself starting in the womb learning about their body. The behavior of grooming is not to make themselves “attractive”, but purposeful for safety, comfort and play. Individual grooming is usually a response to a foreign stimulus such as flora, pest, and wetness from sweat, bath, etc. How many have ridden their horse and the moment he is free to do at will, a good roll was in store? Rolling in the grass, dirt or mud is a natural behavior to alleviate discomfort. An interesting observation on my horses - when my horses are dry or wet, they will roll, whether in grass, dirt or mud. The action is intended to achieve comfort through stretching, scratching, drying or to coat themselves with the earth for safety from nature’s elements (pest, heat, etc.). These behaviors are forms of preparation – individual grooming for safety, comfort or play.
Mutual grooming is a form of preparation communicated tactically between horses using detailed amounts of physical signals. It is imprint learning taught from birth, developed from the dam-foal relationship. The first few hours post-parturition are crucial to the foal; he learns he is a horse from his dam. The dam teaches a foal "lessons on how to use its senses" by applying the correct pressures in their contact to create levels of sensitivity. Detecting evidence of subtle changes in muscle tone of the grooming partner is an essential survival skill. Equine communication derives from the ability to recognize, interpret and understand these tactile responses. From head rubbing, ear twitching to rhythmical scratching with their teeth, all these behaviors extend meaning to their social partner. The preferred site is at the base of the neck (withers) and some studies even suggest this act may induce altered activity at another site. The theory implies this act reduces the heart rate. The croup area is another main location groomed for social purposes, but it is uncommon to see horses grooming each other around the chest and belly area. Many are uncomfortable around these sensitive regions and this maybe obvious when you groom your horse. You know you are not a horse and your horse knows it too. In reality, both are aware that you are the predator and the horse is the prey – more on this topic later. In addition, you are not a chosen grooming partner, so issues may likely arise in your grooming practice. Therefore, it is essential to learn, to understand, to respond and connect - communicate using their language of the senses.
I would like to interrupt the thought for a moment and acquaint an issue concerning Zapp, associating to the dam-foal relationship. Zapp’s dam died at birth, leaving him without fundamental language and leadership. His previous owner afforded him lots of love, but this did not compensate for the lack of leadership provided through a language he could understand. His previous owner lacked several keys of successfully rearing an orphaned foal. Needless to mention, Zapp packs a few behavior problems. He has come a long way in the past year by means of proper language, leadership and of course love. However, we have a long road ahead to bring him total mental and emotional health, but together we will get there and the journey will be interesting, fulfilling and gratifying .
Zapp's Early Years
Grooming is a natural behavior in the world of horses requiring communication for herd members to connect and bond, and thereby allowing the social network to be maintained. In our world, grooming your horse can provide us the same opportunities. It should not be looked at as a chore, but an opening into the horse’s world – to learn, understand, communicate and bond, a building block for that life-long relationship. Grooming is one road I use to stay connected, to socialize and to bond with my horses.
Basic grooming requires the proper tools and the knowledge of how they are used. How you use the tools, not their quality, really determines the results. Keep your tools in good repair and clean. Do not share them amongst other horses. Most cross tie their horses for procedures like grooming and bathing, but I prefer not to whenever possible. I work towards freedoms, and one is allowing my horses to want to stand still, untied with me for these procedures. Restraint of the horse’s head and thus the inability to flee along with the inability to turn freely and look around is a psychologically frightening situation for it to overcome. Confining a horse’s movement could result in catastrophic circumstances. Learn to trust your horse, take the time to teach him through understanding, through communication. The grooming practice should be a positive experience for you and your horse. My goal is to do more with less.
In order to accomplish my goal, I take each element within the task one step at a time and communicate with my horses what they should do. Teaching your horse to stand still without restraints requires a lot of repetition, approach and retreat tactics, and not to mention TIME! One technique is to put him back in the same place whenever he strays away. Continue to do this until he understands that his responsibility is to stand still. There is an abundance of training techniques available; I will eventually write more on technique, but for the topic of this blog, I continue.
There are so many grooming techniques to perform on your horse; some are beneficial to the horse while others are just beneficial to the horse owner. My philosophy is to let a horse be as natural as possible in our human world. Herein, I have listed standard practices for grooming my horses and if you show your horse, the styles will vary. You can contact your breed association for the required grooming styles.
Basic Grooming
- You should acquire a grooming system in which you and your horse feel comfortable and can enjoy. This ensures that you remain committed and allows your horse to become accustomed to the ritual through repetition.
- Groom your horse daily and before and after you ride.
- Groom your horse thoroughly each time and it will require less work.
- Comb in the direction of hair growth.
- If necessary, safely secure your horse in a suitable location.
- Remember, the time spent grooming your horse allows the opportunity to identify any irregularities and or injuries that may exist. Early detection may prevent a greater health problem later.
Grooming the Hooves
This procedure is vital and needs to be incorporated in the daily grooming routine. I start here because the debris removed from the hooves can collect in the fetlock area. Then when I groom his legs, this is easily removed. Calmly approach your horse with hoof pick in hand and focus on the shoulder area. Most horses will allow you to enter their space through this area without concern. Let your horse smell the hoof pick first before you start the procedure. You should allow your horse to smell everything first before you use it on him. They will soon be able to associate smell with a procedure. This practice will help build trust.
Facing the opposite direction of your horse, stand along side his left shoulder. Your feet parallel with his, start rubbing his shoulder and down his leg. If your horse is jumpy, do not attempt to continue. Do a lot of rubbing, scratching and messaging on his legs and take the time it takes using plenty approach and retreat tactics. Once he is calm, continue. Now, the standard will have you lean against the horse’s left shoulder while sliding your left hand down the cannon to the fetlock and once he shifts his weight and relaxes on the foot, pick it up. I do a lot of message, scratches and rubbing down my horse’s legs and do not want him to pick up his feet, so that he is able to differentiate I use a slight squeeze or twist on the foreleg’s chestnut and a slight squeeze or twist on the hock for the hind legs as cues for hoof pick up. With touch, my goal is to use the slightest possible pressure to achieve a response. There is no need for heaviness, horses are able to feel a fly on their skin; they feel your slightest touches as well. Whichever approach you use, using the point of the hoof pick start at the heel and work towards the toe to dislodge debris. This is the safest technique ensuring the tender parts of the frog are not penetrated. The cleft of the frog should be cleaned too. Proceed to his left hind foot and reverse sides for right legs. I have been able to teach Tsar to lift his feet one at a time, on command, from standing on just one side of him. I am able to clean all four feet without changing sides. For anything you wish to teach your horse, always follow the practice of starting on different sides. Switching sides teaches him to become equally balanced on his left and right side. Use a small wired brush to remove any dried mud on the outside of each hoof, then wet a clean rag with clean water and wipe the outside of each hoof (or you can use baby wet wipes) – allow to dry. Always check their hooves for abnormalities such as Thrush and the condition of their shoes if horse is shod. At this point, administer any natural product required to improve hoof care. Occasionally, I use a human nail buffer block on the outside of each hoof. With this said, there are four sides to these buffers and I only use the “buff” or “shine” side. Never use anything coarser.
There is a natural outer protective layer on the hoof. This layer should remain intact to prohibit harmful moisture, bacteria and fungi to penetrate. If removed or blocked, the hoof is vulnerable to infections and other problems. Hooves need to breathe, so limit products applied to them, even natural ones. Avoid products containing mineral oils (petroleum jelly, etc) and never apply conditioners or polishes to the bottom of the hooves. This makes them soft and moist encouraging the conditions for Thrush to thrive. The bottom of the hoof should always be clean and allowed to dry. A natural hoof conditioner may be beneficial to encourage health and growth, but unless required for the health of the horse, use sparingly and with caution.
A healthy hoof grows about 3/8 to 1/2 inch a month and the fastest growth is at the toe of the hoof. Proper hoof trimming is important because it keeps your horse standing squarely and moving straight. A professional should trim hooves, every six to eight weeks, depending on the growth rate. If your horse has been shod, shoes may be maintained within the same time frame. If there are times when you do not ride your horse, such as in the coldest of winter, let hooves grow a bit longer. In addition, during these periods it should be left unshod so its hooves have a chance to expand without being limited by the shoes. This practice will help prevent contracted heels.
Hooves of a horse will dry out rapidly in dry soil and climates causing them to become brittle and crack. The frog will lose its elasticity. If this dry hoof condition is left unchecked, the frog will shrink and the heel will contract. It is a good thing to allow your horse to walk through a dew kissed pasture and having some moist ground, possibly a watering hole or around the watering facilities is a good prevention. The horses will stand long enough for moisture to go into the hooves. Be careful here, too much moisture in the hooves facilitates infection. Remember Thrush grows in wet and dirty hooves. Thrush is a fungal infection of the hoof and is caused from excessive moisture in his environment (wet pastures, wet stalls, etc) along with the lack of routine hoof cleaning. Remedy these conditions that lead to the development of fungi. It is important to have a routine care program for your horse’s hooves.
“No foot, No horse”
Jorrock Wormley
Tips from the Trail
Horse's hooves are greatly affected by the conditions the horse is kept in, the food it eats, and the farrier who shoes and trims his feet. Keep the horse from standing on damp dirty pastures and stall beds. Hooves should be cleaned regularly. A professional farrier must be knowledgeable, reputable and empathetic. Do a lot of research in finding a farrier for they are essential in proper horse management. Internally, a balanced diet plays a fundamental role in healthy hooves. Supplying supplemental herbs such as comfrey, buckwheat, hawthorn, rosehips and nettle will help with circulation, blood cleansing and cell growth. Cleavers contain silica and are excellent for improving hoof quality. Seaweed meal is the all around best hoof supplement. It is full of vitamins, minerals and amino-acids. Allow horses to feed on the seaweed meal at free will.
Note: Applications of diluted essential oils such as lavender or rosemary applied externally to the coronary band can stimulate circulation, thereby improving hoof growth.
Some of the following suggestions are harmless remedies and can be customary, while others are for those times when you need a "temporary" fix. This means for a limited time - not regularly or permanent; these restrictions are for the well-being of the horse. If there are problems, one needs to find the cause and rectify it to achieve a more permanent, healthy solution. Even for special events, one should not rely on these types of "temporary" fixes as routine.
Polish and Shine:
1)
Hoof polish for dry hooves, use baby oil gel, easy to apply with a rag.
2)
Shine feet the old-fashioned way: Cut an onion in half and rub it on. This is not harmful to the hoof in anyway.
Nail Holes:
1)
In a clean coffee can, mix equal parts Venice turpentine, coal tar and regular turpentine (authentic gum spirits). Let it sit and melt together into a black gooey consistency. Brush it on. Keep inside for the winter for it may harden, if it does thin it out with more turpentine. It prevents white line and other hoof problems
2)
Use molding clay (available in craft store or Wal-Mart) in hoof cracks and chips. Fill these areas in before polishing. There is no drying out, and it protects hoof cracks/chips from polish too.
Thrush Remedies:
Clean hooves with pick before applying1)
Mix 7% iodine and water in a squirt bottle and apply to the depressions in underside of hoof - the frog and bar areas. Apply 1 to 2 times daily, for 5 to 7 days. Wear gloves because iodine will stain your skin.
2)
Sugar and Iodine mixture:
In a large squirt bottle, mix 2 parts Betadine solution to 1 part white granulated sugar. The mixture should be watery. Dip a sterile roll of cotton into the mix, let excess drip off. Fold cotton and form into horse's hoof, wrap with diaper/pad and secure with duct tape. Change daily for 5 to 7 days. Wear gloves.
3)
Rosemary Sage
A very good thrush treatment is to mix 1 tablespoon of sage with 1 tablespoon of rosemary in 1 cup of boiling water. Let the mixture cool off. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day.
4)
Apple Cider Vinegar
Mix 1/2 cup of water with 1/2 cup of apple cider vinegar. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day. This remedy is great for a preventative measure (use once a week).
5)
Mint Thyme
Mix 2 teaspoons of thyme and 1 tablespoon of dried mint into 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for about 30 minutes, let the mixture cool off. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day.
6)
Raspberry
Mix 1 tablespoon of raspberry leaves with 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit until it cools off. Strain the mixture and pour into a squirt bottle, then apply this thrush treatment to the underside of hoof 3 times per day.
7)
After picking out the feet and cleft areas, scrub the soles and clefts with a strong salt solution. Choose either tea tree or lavender oil and add 5 drops of the oil to one ounce of a suitable carrier oil such as grape seed, sunflower or walnut. With a paint brush, apply solution to the whole area two or three times a day. Always scrub the feet with the salt solution before each application.
Hoof Abscesses:
1)
In a small container, mix together equal parts - (only enough for one application):
Warm water
Peroxide
Betadine solution (scrub)
Place mixture in a syringe, with no needle, and flush abscess. DO NOT CAP THE SYRINGE - it will explode. This remedy is great for flushing out wounds too.
Dry Hooves:
1)
Place a sponge in the bottom of a man’s tube sock. Wet sponge through sock. Slip sock over hoof. Let hoof soak for 15 minutes.
Mud Cracks:
1)
Clean and scrub hoof as usual, then apply a mixture of Preparation H with Desitin or athlete's foot powder (generic brands are fine). This stops the itch and alleviates swelling and heat.
Brittle / Cracked Heels:
1)
Scoop all the white petroleum jelly out of the container into a pan and add:
3 teaspoons of olive oil
5 to 6 drops of Tea-tree oil
5 to 6 drops of Lavender oil
2 drops of citronella oil (just for a nice smell)
Over low heat, cook until blended. Stir well and let it cool for about 10 minutes before pouring it back into the container. Place the container in the refrigerator until firm. Use this as a preventative and rub it in well every 2 to 3 days around the heels and up the back of the leg area. This will form an excellent barrier to prevent mud soaking in and will help you to brush dried mud off easily.
2)
Use “Buttock Paste” for cracked heels, nicks, scratches, rain rot, etc. You get it at the drug store. Apply to heels, scratches, etc. as needed.
3)
Mix one pint tar oil with two pints crude cod-liver oil, apply to hooves, with a paint brush, several times a day.
Sore Hooves:
1)
Use disposable diapers or pads to poultice and or to soak feet.
2)
Pack your horses feet with poultice and cover hoof with a disposable diaper/pad. Secure with duct tape. Stays damp longer and therefore more active. You can also pour more water in later to extend treatment.
Tender Hooves:
1)
Apply the following mix a few times a week, until your horse is no longer tender. For an even better effect, wrap hooves after applying.
1/3 DMSO (Dimethyl-Sulfoxide)
1/3 Tincture of Iodine
1/3 Lysol - original strength, in the little brown bottle
Mix in spray bottle, for easy application.
2)
Formaldehyde
Iodine
Mix and paint on the hoof soul to harden feet. Ask your farrier/vet for amounts suitable for your horse.
Winter Hoof Pampering:
The cold can take a toll on hooves, especially if your horse has hoof problems. Horses may begin to move more stiffly, even when they are not on frozen or uneven ground. The following remedy may add relief.
1)
Make a ball of your favorite premixed poultice, enough to fill the bottom of the foot. Put it into a plastic sandwich bag and heat in the microwave for about 20 seconds. Cut off one whole side of the bag, leaving the ball of poultice resting on a single layer of plastic. Holding plastic and poultice in your cupped hand, place to the bottom of the hoof. Using the plastic to apply pressure and spread the poultice out evenly. Place the foot inside a hoof boot/diaper/pad and loosely wrap. Duct tape to hold in place for a prolonged warming effect.
Homemade Poultice:
1)
Epsom salt
Alum
In a container, combine ingredients and add enough hot water to make a paste. Mix to form a paste. Apply to base of hoof. Place hoof in boot/diaper/pad and allow to stay on as long as you can.
2)
Mix up a paste out of white sugar and Betadine solution (scrub). Let sit. In the meantime, soak the horse’s hoof in warm water and Epsom salts for 15 minutes. Remove hoof and apply the sugar/Betadine poultice to the entire bottom of the hoof, mostly in the infected area. Apply a sterile gauze pad on the bottom of hoof and wrap the hoof in a medicine boot or a diaper/pad then duct tape. Do this for a week and change it everyday, even better - do it twice a day.
3)
1/2 cup Epsom salts
4 cups bran
water
Mix together; add enough water to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.
4)
1/3 cup powdered ginger
1/3 buckwheat flour
1/3 cup soy flour
water
Mix first three ingredients together in a bowl, add enough water to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.
5)
Kaopectate
flour or bran
Mix together using enough flour or bran to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.
6)
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
witch hazel
Mix together with enough witch hazel to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.
NOTES:
Add Extra Vigor to Your Poultice:
Wrap with wet paper, then boot/diaper/pad and duct tape. The DMSO will help keep the poultice wetter, longer.
For leg and hoof applications, you can use menstrual pads or large disposable pads made for human bedding. Cut the disposable pads to any shape you desire. Cover with a tube sock or secure with duct tape.
A trick for making duct tape coverings for wrapping diapers, pads, etc. to hooves/legs; tear off strips and lay them on your jeans in the desired shape, size and thickness. They stay in place until you need them - when ready, pull off one at a time and apply.
Use socks to make an "abscess/soaking sock". After soaking hoof, use cotton socks to slip over the hoof as soon as it is out of the water. It keeps debris from getting in and dries it out while you gather other supplies. More on Poultices See...Herbs for My Horses, Their Uses
Grooming the Body
With a curry comb, start at the top of the neck and work back to the dock area. This comb will remove crusted dirt and brings the deep dirt and dust to the surface, so it can be brushed off later. Come down the shoulder, barrel and hindquarters. Proceed to the legs and repeat procedure on horse's opposite side. Use caution on delicate and boney areas i.e. legs, belly and around/under the tail. There is very little or no fat or muscle in some of these areas to cushion the comb’s edges.
Next, I like to use my hands and fingers to scratch, rub and massage all over my horse’s hair and muscles. This is very relaxing to my horses and stimulates hair growth and muscle tone, as with regular brushing. All horses are individuals and can react differently, so take things slowly, watch his response, his communication, and learn what he is saying.
For the face, brush with a medium-bristle dandy brush. If there is caked on dirt or mud, remove with fingers first. This brush should be used only on the face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush); brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke so it throws dirt away from the hair. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Include ears inside and out, around the eyes and mouth, but be careful and gentle in these areas with dust and dirt making contact.
Use the medium-bristle dandy brush for their body; brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke, so it throws dirt away from the hair. Use some muscle here, the aim is to bring dirt to the surface. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Notice how the hair changes in direction at different points on the body and watch for these areas. Start at the top of the neck and work back to the dock area. Use the same procedure as with the curry comb until the body has been completely brushed. Again, you must use caution on delicate areas i.e. legs, belly and around/under the tail.
Dampen a clean rag with warm water and wring out. Wipe their face to include eyes, around the muzzle, inside ears and nostrils. Use the fine-bristle brush for their face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush) and it should only be used on the face. This finishes off the face brushing and since the majority of the dirt should be removed from your horse, you can finish removing the remaining fine dust using long even strokes with the fine-bristle body brush. This step helps distribute natural oils all over the body. *Next, rub your horse from head to tail with a wool cloth, cotton rub rag or knit glove to remove any lingering particles. As you use the cloth/rag, etc., it will accumulate oil from the hair. This oil will help shine the hair and will pick up even more dust. Lastly, lightly spray a clean rag with olive oil, rub inside their ears, wipe around muzzle and inside the nostrils. You may substitute olive oil with baby oil or canola oil, but do not use mineral based products.
*The cloth may be dampened with warm water and wiped over the entire body. This is a temporary substitute for a full bath. Once your horse has dried, continue with another clean dry cotton rag to rub your horse from head to tail to remove any lingering particles.
With all the rags I go through caring for my horses, I have a 5 gallon bucket filled with 1 cup bleach and 3 gallons of water. Place dirty rags to soak and when ready for wash, just pour directly into machine. Add detergent and wash as usual.
Next, I like to use my hands and fingers to scratch, rub and massage all over my horse’s hair and muscles. This is very relaxing to my horses and stimulates hair growth and muscle tone, as with regular brushing. All horses are individuals and can react differently, so take things slowly, watch his response, his communication, and learn what he is saying.
For the face, brush with a medium-bristle dandy brush. If there is caked on dirt or mud, remove with fingers first. This brush should be used only on the face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush); brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke so it throws dirt away from the hair. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Include ears inside and out, around the eyes and mouth, but be careful and gentle in these areas with dust and dirt making contact.
Use the medium-bristle dandy brush for their body; brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke, so it throws dirt away from the hair. Use some muscle here, the aim is to bring dirt to the surface. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Notice how the hair changes in direction at different points on the body and watch for these areas. Start at the top of the neck and work back to the dock area. Use the same procedure as with the curry comb until the body has been completely brushed. Again, you must use caution on delicate areas i.e. legs, belly and around/under the tail.
Dampen a clean rag with warm water and wring out. Wipe their face to include eyes, around the muzzle, inside ears and nostrils. Use the fine-bristle brush for their face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush) and it should only be used on the face. This finishes off the face brushing and since the majority of the dirt should be removed from your horse, you can finish removing the remaining fine dust using long even strokes with the fine-bristle body brush. This step helps distribute natural oils all over the body. *Next, rub your horse from head to tail with a wool cloth, cotton rub rag or knit glove to remove any lingering particles. As you use the cloth/rag, etc., it will accumulate oil from the hair. This oil will help shine the hair and will pick up even more dust. Lastly, lightly spray a clean rag with olive oil, rub inside their ears, wipe around muzzle and inside the nostrils. You may substitute olive oil with baby oil or canola oil, but do not use mineral based products.
*The cloth may be dampened with warm water and wiped over the entire body. This is a temporary substitute for a full bath. Once your horse has dried, continue with another clean dry cotton rag to rub your horse from head to tail to remove any lingering particles.
With all the rags I go through caring for my horses, I have a 5 gallon bucket filled with 1 cup bleach and 3 gallons of water. Place dirty rags to soak and when ready for wash, just pour directly into machine. Add detergent and wash as usual.
Tips from the Trail
Coat Sheen:
1)
¼ cup baby oil
2 cups water
4 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar
Mix in a spray bottle and shake well before applying to hair, then wipe off with a clean rag
2)
¼ cup baby oil
¼ cup human hair conditioner
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Mix in a spray bottle and shake well before applying to hair, then wipe off with a clean rag.
NOTE:
Use caution when applying oil based products to your horse when in the sun. These products will cause sunburn. You don't want to use oily products on your horse before showing, all flying particles will land on his coat.
Grooming the Mane, Tail and Forelock
First, I run my fingers through the forelock, mane and tail to remove lodged debris and tangles. Start at the end hairs and move upwards towards the body. With one hand, always hold the hair just above your working area. Use your free hand to remove debris and tangles. This practice should be applied when brushing these areas as well. Massage the body along the crest of the mane, forelock and the tailbone, from the dock area to the tip. Once this has been completed, proceed combing these areas with a mane and tail comb (a very wide toothed comb). Start at the end of these areas and move upward to the body using gentle downward strokes. Use a clean dampened rag (or wet wipes) with warm water and wipe under the tail, around the anus area and between the hind legs. When grooming the tail, stand at the horse’s side and never directly behind the rear of the horse.
Tips from the Trail
When you turn your horse out to pasture and you want to keep their tail and mane free from tangles, braid them. For the mane, separate hair into 1” sections and place each section into a ponytail or pigtail. Use a rubber band to secure. To remove, cut the bands vs. pulling.
Tail Rubbing:
1)
Witch Hazel in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail – rub in.
2)
Original Listerine without added flavors (generic is fine) in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail – rub in.
3)
Lift the tail and rub vitamin E cream into the skin all along the tail bone area.
Mane / Tail Detangler:
1)
Infusiun hair treatment in a spray bottle – dilute with water.
2)
Sauve detangling spray for kids – dilute with water.
3)
Calgon bath oil beads (dry)
Water
Mix Calgon with water (1 part Calgon to 3 parts water) in a spray bottle. Spray on mane and tail to help recondition. Apply liberally and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush.
4)
For burrs in mane and tail, mix 2 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 2 parts water, in a spray bottle. Apply to mane and tail and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush. They glide out with much less effort. It is good to use in any matted mane or tail.
5)
Apply “Pink Oil Spray”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart, in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.
6)
Apply “Cholesterol”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.
7)
Apply “Aussie 2-in-1 Anti-frizz Cream” to forelock, mane and tail. It does not dry the hair out and it will stay soft and easy to brush for weeks. Use as a leave in conditioner.
8)
As an occasional conditioner, spray olive oil (baby oil for white tails/manes) onto your hands or a clean rag and rub into the mane, forelock and tail, start at the ends and move upward using downward strokes. Then with a wide toothed comb, carefully brush through these areas. As well as helping to stop tangles, the oil will make the hairs less brittle.
More recipes See...See ...“Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies” and "Horse Bathing"
1)
Mix 3 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 1 part water, in a spray bottle; apply to mane and tail.
2)
Rub tail and mane with dryer sheets.
Tail Rubbing:
1)
Witch Hazel in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail – rub in.
2)
Original Listerine without added flavors (generic is fine) in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail – rub in.
3)
Lift the tail and rub vitamin E cream into the skin all along the tail bone area.
Mane / Tail Detangler:
1)
Infusiun hair treatment in a spray bottle – dilute with water.
2)
Sauve detangling spray for kids – dilute with water.
3)
Calgon bath oil beads (dry)
Water
Mix Calgon with water (1 part Calgon to 3 parts water) in a spray bottle. Spray on mane and tail to help recondition. Apply liberally and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush.
4)
For burrs in mane and tail, mix 2 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 2 parts water, in a spray bottle. Apply to mane and tail and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush. They glide out with much less effort. It is good to use in any matted mane or tail.
5)
Apply “Pink Oil Spray”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart, in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.
6)
Apply “Cholesterol”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.
7)
Apply “Aussie 2-in-1 Anti-frizz Cream” to forelock, mane and tail. It does not dry the hair out and it will stay soft and easy to brush for weeks. Use as a leave in conditioner.
8)
As an occasional conditioner, spray olive oil (baby oil for white tails/manes) onto your hands or a clean rag and rub into the mane, forelock and tail, start at the ends and move upward using downward strokes. Then with a wide toothed comb, carefully brush through these areas. As well as helping to stop tangles, the oil will make the hairs less brittle.
More recipes See...See ...“Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies” and "Horse Bathing"
Static:
1)
Mix 3 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 1 part water, in a spray bottle; apply to mane and tail.
2)
Rub tail and mane with dryer sheets.
Trimming and Clipping
Some will clip and trim their horses for show, or for other various personal preferences, but have you given any thought as to why the hair is there. As I mentioned earlier, I believe in keeping my horses as natural as possible and avoid clipping unless medically necessary. Nature has supplied its creatures with the means of survival and functional components for protection and hair is one of them. I rarely clip or trim any area of my horses. Nonetheless, many people do, so I will include this section along with nature’s intended purpose for its existence. Clipping a horse can be dangerous; always have experienced people to provide assistance, if needed. Use clippers for cutting bridle baths, mane roaching, muzzle whiskers and leg, ear and lower jaw hairs. If your horse is not desensitized to clippers, shears can be used in their place. Here again you can acquaint your horse to clippers/shears with a lot of approach and retreat and repetition. This will take time, start slow and build up your horse’s confidence and trust.
Tip: First, show your horse the clippers/shears and allow him to smell and touch the them. Try approaching your horse with the clippers/shears, in an area away from where you want to clip. Slowly and gently rub them on your horse. Watch his reactions and retreat when necessary. The noise of the clippers can be fearful for the horse, again proceed slowly and use a lot of approach and retreat. The vibrating effect of the clippers upon the horse's body can be used to make the horse familiar with the sensation before attempting the clipping process.
Both chestnuts and ergots can be trimmed without pain. DO NOT try to remove either chestnuts or ergots entirely, and if you trim them stay above the skin level. Both can often be peeled off layer by layer with your fingers or fingernails. If they are too hard and built up, you can apply a rich human body cream or petroleum jelly regularly to soften them, and then attempt removal. Ergots can often be pinched off with fingernails, remembering to keep above the skin. Resist the temptation to twist the ergot as you pinch it, as this might be uncomfortable for the horse and you could get kicked or stomped.
Tip: First, show your horse the clippers/shears and allow him to smell and touch the them. Try approaching your horse with the clippers/shears, in an area away from where you want to clip. Slowly and gently rub them on your horse. Watch his reactions and retreat when necessary. The noise of the clippers can be fearful for the horse, again proceed slowly and use a lot of approach and retreat. The vibrating effect of the clippers upon the horse's body can be used to make the horse familiar with the sensation before attempting the clipping process.
LEGS:
Fetlocks:
Nature has provided longer hair on the fetlock for keeping the sensitive back area of the pastern dry. It acts like a funnel for water to drip off, like a rain gutter.
Coronet:
Again, the hair growth above the hoof keeps the water moving away. A minimal removal of hair creating a neat trim with clippers would be best if you prefer.
Chestnuts:
These are normal healthy growths above the knees on the forelegs and below the hock on the hind legs. They serve no purpose and they will continue to grow into unsightly mounds, if not maintained. No one really knows why they exist, and they have been a subject of curiosity for quite a long time. Some scientists believe that chestnuts and ergots evolved from the pads that were under the toes of a very early ancestor of the horse. Did you know that about 50 million years ago, the first known ancestor of the horse, Eohippus, had four padded toes on the front legs and three padded toes on the back legs. Interestingly, the front hooves of today’s horse are larger than the hind hooves.
Ergots:
They are found on the back of a horse's fetlock on all four legs, but they are usually covered with hair and can not be seen unless the hair is parted.Both chestnuts and ergots can be trimmed without pain. DO NOT try to remove either chestnuts or ergots entirely, and if you trim them stay above the skin level. Both can often be peeled off layer by layer with your fingers or fingernails. If they are too hard and built up, you can apply a rich human body cream or petroleum jelly regularly to soften them, and then attempt removal. Ergots can often be pinched off with fingernails, remembering to keep above the skin. Resist the temptation to twist the ergot as you pinch it, as this might be uncomfortable for the horse and you could get kicked or stomped.
Tips from the Trail
Saturate chestnuts / ergots with water and allow to soften, then remove as above indicates. Bathing your horse is a great time to remove them. Periodically, about once a week, peel away new growth and apply human rich body cream or petroleum jelly to retain suppleness.
An easy way of keeping feathers trimmed and neat is to use a trimming comb made for dogs. It has a replaceable razor blade screwed in over the teeth.
BODY:
Body clipping truly benefits the human only. Humans enjoy speediness; the horse dries faster after an intense training session or show. However, the skin becomes exposed to nature’s elements, UV rays, rain, wind, cold, insects, etc. The horse will always need blanketing because his natural protection has been removed.
An Exception - Naturally, “Curly” horses or horses with a disorder that grow excessive hair may benefit with a partial body clip.
HEAD:
Muzzle Whiskers:
These whiskers are extremely important to a horse. The two “blind spot” areas of a horse are directly behind his tail and directly below his muzzle. These whiskers estimate distance between the horse and an object. Removal of these hairs restricts the horse’s sense of touch and may cause your horse to become insecure, worried even injured.
Eye Whiskers:
These whiskers should NEVER be removed! They serve as a touch sensor enabling protection to the eyes.For both of these locations, trimming them back a small bit is a better avenue than total removal. Tsar has very long eye whiskers; one was about 4” long. I did trim it back to about 3”.
Under Jaw:
This area seems to grow out with the winter hair and with my guys; it will thin out and disappear with their annual spring shed. Sometimes, I will help the process along with a little trim.
Ears:
Nature provides hair growth in the ear to protect against insects and debris from entering the ear canal. You may trim with shears along the edges of the ear and the protruding hairs inside that grow past the ear’s edge. Never entirely, shave away the hair inside the ear (sometimes required for show). If removed, a fly mask with ear covers must be used on your horse at all times to ensure good “ear” health.
Tips from the Trail
To trim ear hairs – place your open hand behind the ear and gently close your hand bringing the ear folds together. Trim along the ear’s edge removing protruding hairs.
When using clippers, place a large “pom pom” (diameter needs to be larger than ear opening) in each ear to prevent falling hair entering the ear canal, plus they help minimize the sound of the clippers.
When using clippers, place a large “pom pom” (diameter needs to be larger than ear opening) in each ear to prevent falling hair entering the ear canal, plus they help minimize the sound of the clippers.
Mane and Tail:
The mane and tail are some of the most beautiful components of a horse. They expose a freedom of their souls, their spirits waving as they gallop upon the earth. Not only are they a splendor of nature, they serve special purposes. They ward off insects, provide protection and help regulate body temperate under certain conditions. The mane should not be shaved completely off (exceptions for certain breeds i.e. the Fjord horse). It serves the horse well and is functional. Hair just as wool, needs many minerals to grow - keratin, sulfur and copper. Of course, this comes from within; therefore, emphasizing the importance of a healthy diet. Externally, a thin tail or mane can benefit from massaging often. From the dock to the tailbone tip, massage regularly. Do the same along the crest of the mane. Apply hair conditioners frequently and provide daily mineral supplements in their diet. There are several ways you can “neaten” the forelock, mane and tail i.e. pulling, dressing, braiding, etc.
Tips from the Trail
1)
When trimming the end of a tail, ask someone to place an arm beneath the tailbone and lift it up slightly, so that it is in the position in which the horse carries it when moving. Otherwise, you may end up having an unnatural look or cutting it too short.
2)
Use latex gloves for pulling manes; grabs on well and no more blisters on your fingers.
3)
If your horse's mane tends to lie on the wrong side, on both sides, or worse sticks up, pulling it from the underside will help. Then dampen the mane with water and braid it loosely; securing the ends of each braid with rubber bands.
4)
To help mane hair lie down smoothly, use a warm damp towel and lay over horse’s neck, covering crest. Let it rest there for a few minutes. Remove towel and with your hands and fingers comb a mixture of water and styling gel (2:1 ratio) into mane. Let mane dry and comb mane normally with fingers; then with a wide tooth comb. This technique can be applied to the tail.
5)
For the mane, space braids evenly by cutting a piece of plastic comb to approximately 1 to 1 ½ inches in width. Use it to gauge the width of each braid accurately and to make straight divisions in the hairs between them.
6)
Styling gels (Dippity-Do) are great products for braiding into mane and tail to hold them tight.
7)
Cheap hairspray diluted with water (2:1 ratio). Spray on tail and mane before and after braiding to keep braids in place, especially tail braids. Put on tail wrap and leave on for about 20 minutes or until your event. You have a perfect braid with no flyaway hairs.
8)
Make a tube sock into a tail bag by cutting the top into strips. Cut strips about 5" down and approximately 2" apart. Braid horse's tail and tie the strips through the braided tail.
9)
Use vet wrap, instead of buying tail bags. It is colorful, cheaper, disposable and safer for the horse than other tapes.
electrical tape
big roll of vet wrap, choose your color
shampoo
conditioner - leave in is beat or use an oil
1/2" wide elastic by 3"
if its summer time, balers twine
Wash the horse's tail well, then rinse. Let the tail dry a bit and apply leave-in conditioner or oil. Braid the tail, starting just below the tailbone. Not too close or tight possibly cutting off circulation. Braid it all the way to the end. Tightly secure the end of the braid with the elastic. Hold the end of the tail (with the elastic) and put it through the top of the braid, near the tailbone. Depending on the thickness and length of the tail, this step made need to be repeated. Hold it in place and use the electrical tape and start wrapping around the tail. Now, take the vet wrap and stick it too, through the top of the braid (near the tailbone); wrap it around the enfolded tail until the whole tail is covered. If it is summer, cut up pieces of balers twine into 24" pieces. Secure them around the top of the vet wrap with electrical tape. Cover tape with more vet wrap.This will act like a tail to swish those pesky insects away.
Not related to grooming, but; nonetheless an interesting observation to mention. It illustrates the horse’s ability to communicate with each other and the importance of conveying meaningful information. It was a summer evening and we were returning Zapp and Tsar to their pasture when swarms of horseflies flew in suddenly. I with Tsar and my husband with Zapp, started whirling our arms and leads in the air above the horses to lessen the impact of the raid. Immediately, the horses came together, along side of each other, facing in opposite directions. This action of safeguarding one another permitted each horse to defend only one side. I was amazed at the mastery and precision of the unspoken language communicated and understood between them. Within seconds, this performance was executed without one word uttered. This demonstration was a gesture holding many connotations, I believe. Of the 4 conditions horses need, two, safety and comfort, showed up emphasizing the importance of social bonding, group cohesion and appeasement between horses. Even without words, the communication strength between them was evident. It is the catalysts that creates the bond, the partnership, the relationship that was so apparent, caring enough to uphold these connections.
It is up to me to continue to learn the language of my horses and to stay connected, so our relationship can go forward. Grooming is a very important way to gain benefits of spending time with my horse, allowing opportunities to open and build on the partnership.
Once your grooming practice is complete, you can step back and take a look. A well-maintained horse should be the result. This effort is a direct reflection of the respect the owners have for their horse. In turn, your horse will be well-mannered, showing a direct reflection of the respect the horse has for its owner.
When trimming the end of a tail, ask someone to place an arm beneath the tailbone and lift it up slightly, so that it is in the position in which the horse carries it when moving. Otherwise, you may end up having an unnatural look or cutting it too short.
2)
Use latex gloves for pulling manes; grabs on well and no more blisters on your fingers.
3)
If your horse's mane tends to lie on the wrong side, on both sides, or worse sticks up, pulling it from the underside will help. Then dampen the mane with water and braid it loosely; securing the ends of each braid with rubber bands.
4)
To help mane hair lie down smoothly, use a warm damp towel and lay over horse’s neck, covering crest. Let it rest there for a few minutes. Remove towel and with your hands and fingers comb a mixture of water and styling gel (2:1 ratio) into mane. Let mane dry and comb mane normally with fingers; then with a wide tooth comb. This technique can be applied to the tail.
5)
For the mane, space braids evenly by cutting a piece of plastic comb to approximately 1 to 1 ½ inches in width. Use it to gauge the width of each braid accurately and to make straight divisions in the hairs between them.
6)
Styling gels (Dippity-Do) are great products for braiding into mane and tail to hold them tight.
7)
Cheap hairspray diluted with water (2:1 ratio). Spray on tail and mane before and after braiding to keep braids in place, especially tail braids. Put on tail wrap and leave on for about 20 minutes or until your event. You have a perfect braid with no flyaway hairs.
8)
Make a tube sock into a tail bag by cutting the top into strips. Cut strips about 5" down and approximately 2" apart. Braid horse's tail and tie the strips through the braided tail.
9)
Use vet wrap, instead of buying tail bags. It is colorful, cheaper, disposable and safer for the horse than other tapes.
electrical tape
big roll of vet wrap, choose your color
shampoo
conditioner - leave in is beat or use an oil
1/2" wide elastic by 3"
if its summer time, balers twine
Wash the horse's tail well, then rinse. Let the tail dry a bit and apply leave-in conditioner or oil. Braid the tail, starting just below the tailbone. Not too close or tight possibly cutting off circulation. Braid it all the way to the end. Tightly secure the end of the braid with the elastic. Hold the end of the tail (with the elastic) and put it through the top of the braid, near the tailbone. Depending on the thickness and length of the tail, this step made need to be repeated. Hold it in place and use the electrical tape and start wrapping around the tail. Now, take the vet wrap and stick it too, through the top of the braid (near the tailbone); wrap it around the enfolded tail until the whole tail is covered. If it is summer, cut up pieces of balers twine into 24" pieces. Secure them around the top of the vet wrap with electrical tape. Cover tape with more vet wrap.This will act like a tail to swish those pesky insects away.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Not related to grooming, but; nonetheless an interesting observation to mention. It illustrates the horse’s ability to communicate with each other and the importance of conveying meaningful information. It was a summer evening and we were returning Zapp and Tsar to their pasture when swarms of horseflies flew in suddenly. I with Tsar and my husband with Zapp, started whirling our arms and leads in the air above the horses to lessen the impact of the raid. Immediately, the horses came together, along side of each other, facing in opposite directions. This action of safeguarding one another permitted each horse to defend only one side. I was amazed at the mastery and precision of the unspoken language communicated and understood between them. Within seconds, this performance was executed without one word uttered. This demonstration was a gesture holding many connotations, I believe. Of the 4 conditions horses need, two, safety and comfort, showed up emphasizing the importance of social bonding, group cohesion and appeasement between horses. Even without words, the communication strength between them was evident. It is the catalysts that creates the bond, the partnership, the relationship that was so apparent, caring enough to uphold these connections.
It is up to me to continue to learn the language of my horses and to stay connected, so our relationship can go forward. Grooming is a very important way to gain benefits of spending time with my horse, allowing opportunities to open and build on the partnership.
Once your grooming practice is complete, you can step back and take a look. A well-maintained horse should be the result. This effort is a direct reflection of the respect the owners have for their horse. In turn, your horse will be well-mannered, showing a direct reflection of the respect the horse has for its owner.
Go Green Tips:
- Upholsterer's wax-coated thread is great for braiding into mane braids. It has superior holding power.
- Suede shoe spray is great for touching up those faded and scruffy velveteen cowboy or riding hats.Wipe them down first with a lightly damp cloth and let dry before spraying
Any Go Green Ideas?
The essential joy of being with horses is that it brings us in contact with the rare elements of grace, beauty, spirit, and fire.
Sharon Ralls Lemon
Sharon Ralls Lemon