Prepare Your Horse, Barn, Yard and Equipment for Winter
Most equestrians reduce or perhaps even eliminate their horse’s activity level in the winter season, but daily attention is still required to ensure that all is well. Caring for your horse is certainly a challenge and your continuous commitment is tested even more in the frigid climate of winter. Nevertheless, we ask so much of them and so willingly do they give and in comparison, they ask so little in return… we are truly indebted. Maintaining a proper management program to achieve a healthy horse is a responsibility to uphold year round. Anything worth having takes time, so contribute to them responsibly and you will find endless rewarding benefits no matter what season.
Provide the Five Freedoms for Your Horse:
Freedom from hunger and thirst…
Freedom from discomfort…
Freedom form pain, injury or disease…
Freedom to express normal behavior…
Freedom from fear and distress…
Freedom from discomfort…
Freedom form pain, injury or disease…
Freedom to express normal behavior…
Freedom from fear and distress…
The Five Freedoms are discussed in their entirety in previous blog... “Horse Bathing”
Winterize Your Horse
Nature provides horses adequately for winter weather conditions when in their “natural” state. Capable of taking measures to manage nature’s cold climate situations; horses will forage for appropriate food, seek out open water to drink, generate warmth by herding together and find sufficient shelter. However, when man intervenes and limits their abilities, horses become very dependent upon their holders to supply these and other necessities.
Nutrition
Winterizing your horse by making him able to adapt to and be comfortable with whatever nature presents requires proper preparation, by you. Appropriate nutrition and water supply is vital for your horse year round, but these components can be limiting during the winter season causing stress and compromised health. Your horse needs to be healthy prior to this coming season enabling him to endure. A great physical condition allows the advantage he will need to weather the extreme circumstances. Proper nutrition management and clean fluid water will help to provide this advantage.
An apt nutritional program will aid in maintaining your horse’s normal body temperature, thus keeping him warm. In the winter, forage is the fuel that keeps a horse warm. The horse’s body generates more heat from the fermentation process in the hind gut because of eating forage (hay and pasture). In winter, when the pastures go dormant and offer very little nutritional value, a supply of high quality hay is crucial. On average for a mature horse in light exercise, he will need about 1.5% - 3% of his body weight per day of high quality roughage (air-dry feed). With that said, a ration of 2% or about 24 pounds of all combined air-dry feed (grain and hay) is fed to each of my 1200-pound horses, per day. In a winter’s day, since each horse receives 6 pounds of grain; they will need to consume about 18 pounds of additional well-cured grass hay. While hay preferences vary, always ensure the hay is clean and mold-free. Feeding the horse off the ground or at a position below his head aids in proper nasal and lung drainage. This is a natural eating position and lessens the incidence of respiratory problems. Monitor the local weather predictions and increase the amount of hay intake two to three days in advance of extreme conditions to aid your horse in keeping his normal body temperature.
If you supply grain to the diet, continue with portions during the winter months. Usually there is a reduction in your horse’s activity level in the winter, which means a reduced need for calories; however, they will require additional calories to generate body heat maintaining normal body temperature during cold spells. If his activity is decreased drastically and he does not need the calories to sustain weight, feed more hay and less grain. A good guide to follow; substitute 2 pounds of hay for every pound of grain reduced in his daily ration to enable the horse to maintain energy and to stay warm. In summer, a horse consumes lush green pasture and in winter the changes to his diet usually occur with additional hay and or grain. Take great care when adapting such diet changes. Fresh green grass acts like a laxative while grass hay may have an opposite effect. Health risks can increase in the aftermath of diet changes, colic being one. A less intrusive feeding program is to continue feeding hay throughout the year. Supply smaller portions of hay in summer, spring and fall, when pastures are prosperous eliminating abrupt changes in diet.
Watch your horse's body condition and make certain he is not losing weight. With a winter coat, it may be impossible to see visually his body condition, so run your fingers down his side and along spine to the croup area feeling for bony protrusions. If you can barely feel the outline of horse's ribs under slight hand pressure and no significant protrusion of his backbone, he is maintaining an adequate weight. This hands-on inspection also affords the opportunity to check your horse for injuries otherwise hidden from view by a long winter coat. Perform this practice weekly and for a more accurate assessment, every month achieve a weight measurement by scale or tape. If he is losing weight, an increase of grain intake may be necessary.
Paying close attention to your horse’s nutritional needs and making adjustments before body conditions begin to decline is fundamental in management, especially in cold weather. Concentrate on their energy (calorie) requirements. A body score of 5.5 to 7.0 is ideal for your horse to live outside with a 3- sided shelter open to the south, in the winter. He will develop a winter coat and will not need to consume more calories until the temperature falls below 15◦F. His metabolic rate will increase by about 35% to stay warm, when temperatures fall below 15◦F. A natural reaction of the body to combat the cold is shivering, which is the rapid contraction and relaxation of the muscles to create heat. Shivering is evidence of poor nutritional management and should be avoided. The additional energy consumed by shivering may eventually compromise the horse's ability to maintain crucial core temperature. Horses require additional calories to generate body heat during cold spells.
Horses obtain calories from proteins, fats and carbohydrates. If the ideal body condition is not maintainable by feeding your horse daily the average 2% of his body weight with hay and grain, increasing the amount of forage (hay) is the starting point to supply more calories for your horse. The benefits of calories will maintain an ideal body condition and deliver adequate heat generated during the fermentation of fiber in the hind gut. If the ideal body condition is still not attainable, the next step is to increase his grain consumption per day. A general guide is to increase quantities by ¼ measures each week until the body condition begins to improve and then maintain that amount throughout the winter months. In addition, for every 3◦F below 15◦F, your horse will need 3% more digestible energy or calories. Depending on the amount of calories in your grain mix, this on average amounts to an additional 1/3 to 1/2 pounds of grain, per day. If your horse still needs more calories, then add calories from fat. Fat contains three times the calories found in oats and four times the calories found in average grass hay, so add sparingly. Always, pay attention to those weather forecasts to adjust feed when necessary.
Vitamins and minerals are part of proper nutritional management for your horse. Make certain the daily-required allowance is maintained along with an accessible supply of salt (a high quality source is Himalayan rock salt). It is important to know your horse’s requirements. A guideline would be to stockpile enough hay and grain to last at least two weeks, and preferably longer for those emergency conditions that may arise during the unpredictable weather of winter.
So many variables determine a proper feeding program for an individual horse from weather to age. Most importantly, know your horse, watch his body condition, talk with your veterinarian and be versatile.
Water
Water is essential for sustaining life and your horse must have free access daily. An average horse requires from 5 -10 gallons per day which needs to be clean and ice-free. Less availability from cold or frozen sources and with a diet consisting mainly of hay reduces the consumption level during cooler temperatures. Hay has a water content of only 10% while pasture contains nearly 80%. The myth that horses will eat snow is a falsehood with dire consequential results. Some probably do lick it occasionally, but they would need to consume six times the amount to produce an equal amount of water. Do not rely on snow or ice to supply their water requirements. It is central to ensure your horse consumes an adequate amount of water to remain healthy.
Some health risks are likely if the horse’s water intake is reduced. Consuming cold substances lowers body heat, which is contradictory to the necessary outcome of providing warmth for the horse in winter. Drinking cold water during winter months will burn up additional calories to warm tissues back from the heat loss, therefore they instinctively drink less. Besides, cold water is not palatable to a horse and maintaining temperatures between 45◦F - 65◦F will encourage him to drink more generously. In addition, with a larger ingestion of hay during the winter, water consumption encouragement is required to keep the foods flushing through the digestive tract; considering the reverse, lower water consumption may result in a higher risk of colic impaction. Promote water consumption by maintaining water temperatures, adding electrolytes (natural Blackstrap molasses) to grain or water and provide access to salt. Provide all the necessities to keep your horse well hydrated, warm and healthy.
Tips from the Trail:
Scrub your water buckets and troughs clean in the last days of fall, before the arriving cold days of winter. Comet is a great cleaner for these procedures – no suds. Other cleaning Tips See... "Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"
Buckets
Rubber buckets cost more but make it easier to knock out the frozen water as opposed to the plastic buckets that may shatter. The additional expense of rubber may be justifiable by eliminating the purchase of more plastic buckets.
Use insulated bucket holders.
Carry tepid water in buckets from the house or barn to your horse.
Top off frozen buckets with extremely hot water, but stand guard to prevent horse from drinking until it melts frozen ice and cools down to appropriate drinking temperatures.
Troughs
Have troughs under a three-sided shelter.
Install water heaters or an automatic heated water bowl, both are sound investments. Plug into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) extension cord to prevent shock, or directly into a ground fault indicator receptacle. Use according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Insulate around the trough with bales of straw, sand bags or even field stones. This can aid in keeping water ice free and lessen the amount of electricity used from heaters in keeping the water warm.
Allow a football to float in trough. Its movement can minimize water freeze except of course in case of an extreme frost. A ball big enough so horse cannot get in his mouth.
Add vinegar to troughs reducing algae growth.
Hoof Care
Moisture, moisture, moisture… is so prevalent in the winter season making hoof care an indispensable part of preventing trouble. Snow, water, mud, or mucky stalls are the ingredients necessary for making your horse susceptible to that “dirty” word…thrush. Keep stalls clean and dry and use good absorbent bedding. There are a number of great permeable bedding products on the market today. Additionally, continue the daily practice of cleaning your horse’s feet. Keeping both stalls and feet dry and clean will greatly reduce the risk of thrush. Other threats pending in winter conditions can include abscesses forming by a hoof’s impact against frozen ground. Abscesses usually develop in early spring and can be attributed to undiagnosed bruising that started in winter.
Hoof growth will often slow in winter, but carry on with your farrier to provide scheduled trims for keeping proper shape and avoiding any unnatural wear. If your horse is shod, removing them in winter permits the hoof wall to thicken and the sole the ability to harden. Constant shoe wear also contributes to contracted heels; if possible, winter is a good time to remove shoes and allow hooves to rest. If shoes remain in winter due to riding preferences or for a preexisting condition, it is possible for snow to accumulate between the shoe and the sole creating a ball (snowball). This will make walking unbalanced, difficult or even tendon and joint strain. Eliminate the buildup by having your farrier apply a snowball pad; this is a plastic pad with a ball in the center preventing snow and ice from building around the shoe. Another option is to clean out the hooves and apply petroleum jelly or Crisco all-vegetable shortening to the soles with a hoof brush. Repeat this process as long as there is snow cover on the ground. Maintaining good nutrition and routine care are beneficial in preserving quality hooves.
More Hoof Care Tips from the Trail - See...“Horse Bathing”
Exercise
Want a workout in winter? Go work or ride your horse; it is healthy. Both may appreciate the scenery change and departure of normality; plus it may furnish entertainment from all the pent-up of winter days. There are measures to consider guaranteeing a healthy pleasurable experience for you and the horse. “Light” is the answer. Use caution, go slow and eliminate any strenuous activity creating labored breathing and/or profuse sweating. Permanent damage or even potential death are possibilities under excessive conditions in the cold. Damage to the lungs may result from the rapid and deep inhalation of freezing air. Chilling will occur from sweating in cold weather causing serious situations, so cover yourself with adequate clothing and blanket your horse’s croup. This will keep his muscles from getting cold and producing spasms from the exercise. Do not over exert. Cool your horse out making sure he is completely dry after your sessions. Never put your horse out in the cold with any apparent wetness…again, he must be completely dry! Go light, do not over exert you or your hose and enjoy the season with time spent together.
Medical
Take this time to check and restock your first aid kits, both human and horse. Stock up on extra pharmaceuticals should your veterinarian be unable to reach you.
It is essential for your horse to chew/grind his food obtaining all the energy he needs, especially since energy needs increase during the colder months. Have your horse’s teeth checked annually either in wintertime or springtime. Have this performed by an equine dentist.
A regular parasite control program should be established for your horse. If you use a commercial program, plan to de-worm after the first heavy frost. Use one that kills bot larvae. Consult with your veterinarian for a program suitable for your location and horse.
For a natural parasite control program, adequate copper and sulfur levels must be maintained in your horse’s system. Parasites internal and external will not stay with a horse if these levels are sufficient. Regular daily feedings of these minerals is the source also provide garlic which contains natural sulfur and sometimes reduces the incidences of interior parasites. It should not entirely take the place of a balanced diet with the correct amounts of copper and sulfur. Eventually, I will devote a blog to this topic.
Winterize the Barn/Shelter
Nature has provided horses the ability to survive extreme weather conditions through freedoms to grow protective coverings, herd together and to roam thousands of acres to seek shelter and nutrition. The domestic horse is not afforded these freedoms and relies on the horse owner to provide these sufficient necessities. Horses properly managed by their holders providing standard care can overcome the cold, wind, rain or snow. It is when these conditions come in any combination or are extreme that make necessary the need of extra aid and protection for your horse.
Most domestic horses are contained on a small fraction of the acreage compared to their natural counterparts. The amount of natural shelter on this acreage is probably zero to none, and is one of the necessities the horse owner needs to provide. A barn with adequate room in a stall or a 3-sided run-in shed preferably facing south allowing full heat from the sun needs to be available to the horse. Here he can escape the elements of extreme weather. Whether a run in or a barn, new or old, simple or elaborate the requirement of adequacy, security, safety and basic comfort for your horse should be foremost in your maintenance practices. The preservation of the structure requires endless duties, but it is possible to reduce those daunting tasks with a scheduled program. So, get out the pencil and paper or better yet print this list out and go complete those items that need your attention while the weather is still on your side. In a few weeks, whether it is our horse or our family, we all will want to feel warm and cozy.
Your goal is to eliminate drafts, while at the same time provide proper ventilation, an airtight barn leads to health issues. Good air quality must be maintained.
Shelter
Clean Facility Completely
Strip stalls, check mats for repairs and replenish bedding (extra bedding in winter)
Watch for ammonia build up – use baking soda/vinegar/Woody Pet – clean out regularly
Determine bedding requirements and have enough for several weeks on hand
Remove cobwebs
Sweep entire area
Properly store tools and any other detrimental items away from horse traffic
For extra traction on barn tools, wrap the handles of pitchforks, brooms, rakes, etc. with vet wrap for gloved hands in the winter and for summer, it cuts down on acquiring calluses.
Check and Repair
Roof for leaks
Insulate attic areas and pipes coming into the facility
Install a hydrant that is self-draining or a shut off valve below the frost line
Drain pipes/hoses/buckets after each use
Caulk around windows, doors, etc. – fill cracks
Weather-stripping around doors
Keep areas under doorways dry and clean preventing slips/freezing shut
Cover the inside of windows with plastic in heated areas
Check feed bins/hay racks for looseness
Check buckets for cracks and sharp edges – replace if necessary
Loose boards or protruding nails in barns/stalls/run-ins
Check fire extinguishers/detectors
Preform Fire/Evacuation drills
Test heating elements in automatic waters
Check the cores in heated buckets and tank heaters
Implement a rodent control program – they seem to like the warmth inside too - barn cats do great work – have them spayed or neutered
Consider barn dogs and cats. Create warm sleeping areas for those who winter in the barn. Boxes, travel crates, etc work well for them with added bedding or old blankets for cozy comfort. In addition, when stockpiling winter emergency supplies think about their needs too.
Blankets
During the seasonal changes from fall to winter, avoid blanketing the horse so he may develop a thick coat and acclimate to the dropping temperatures. As the season continues to change, use caution with blankets. If your horse has adjusted correctly to the dropping temperatures, blankets are usually not necessary for a healthy horse provided he has shelter from the wind, rain, snow, etc. However, use common sense when blanketing. If the weather conditions are extreme; below freezing, windy, raining or snowing hard and your horse is outside, a well-fitting waterproof wind-resistant blanket is best. While on your horse, monitor for placement, dryness and cleanliness. Blankets may slip causing rubbing and sores. Broken hairs are an indication of chaffing. Wet blankets will do more harm than good causing chill not warmth and dirty ones could cause fungal infections. If the weather changes to sunny and or temperatures rise, removal is usually necessary.
Hang up blankets to air, examine for needed repairs, and check fasteners and straps.
Tips from the Trail:
Looping small elastic bands around the blanket fasteners helps prevent an accidental undo
Dental floss is great for blanket repairs. Sew up those rips with the floss. This is not waterproof so stick duct tape on top of sewn area. The floss will hold the rips better than duct tape alone. In addition, if the duct tape does not stick because the adhesive is cold - sew the duct tape on with the floss.
Use iron on waterproof patches for blanket rips
Suspenders make great replacement leg straps
Convert an old sleeping bag into a warm quilted stable rug for the winter by removing the zipper and cut out a semi-circular section at one end for the neck and shoulders. Stitch around the edges, adding a colored binding. Use wide strips of Velcro for breast straps, belly straps and sew in place.
Adding reflective tape on your horse’s blankets will make it much easier to find him in a field in the dark.
Measure for a Proper Fitting Blanket:
Using a long tape measure (approximately 80” long), start at the front center of the chest (A) and carry it around the widest part of the shoulder. Continue down the barrel, along the flank around to the center back of the tail (B). Usually blankets come in even whole sizes, so if the measurement is an odd number or fraction, go up to the next even whole number for the best fit.
NOTE:
The best solution for keeping a horse warm during cold weather is to buy the best quality hay opposed to the best quality blanket.
The best solution for keeping a horse warm during cold weather is to buy the best quality hay opposed to the best quality blanket.
Winterize the Yard/Equipment
Yard
Repair fences and posts
Service heaters and well pumps
Insulate well house and apply heat tape/insulate where needed
Check pipes/spouts and faucets – insulate and check heat tape is working properly
Cut back large branches/bushes close to shelter in the event of an ice storm
Pick up obstacles, poles, jumps or anything that may be hazardous if hidden by snowfall
Fill holes in front of gates, doors, etc. where snow may cover or water may freeze
Give your pastures a boost – fall is a good time for mineralization of your pastures – contact your local agricultural department for recommendations
Equipment
Inspect hydraulic, fuel and electrical systems on tractors
Lube engine with a lighter-weight winter oilCheck anti-freeze and determine if a full replacement is necessary
Diesel tractors will need a fuel additive for those below zero temperatures
Keep tractor full of fuel
Examine the ignition system
Install snow tires/all season radials
Keep a set of chains in vehicle
Check the brakes
Check the exhaust system – leaks vent carbon monoxide to the inside
Check heater
Check defroster
Check windshield wipers – fill with winter-grade washer fluid
Keep vehicle full of fuel
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.
With all the preparations, you have gained the comfort knowing your horse is ready to weather the season.
Go enjoy it with your horse!
Go enjoy it with your horse!
Go Green Tips:
- plain Crest toothpaste is great to polish silver. Dab on a cloth and polish away
- distilled vinegar or some say kerosene on heavy corrosion works for rusty tools (hoof nippers, fence tools, pliers, etc.) Overnight, soak them in a bucket of vinegar or kerosene to remove rust. Extreme rust may need to be soaked longer
Any Go Green Ideas?
Let us ride together, blowing mane and hair, careless of the weather, miles ahead of care, ring of hoof and snaffle, swing of waist and hip, trotting down the twisted road with the world let slip.
Anonymous
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