Fireproof Your Barn through Planning, Prevention and Safety

Fireproof Your Barn

There are times when nature shows its ugly wrath and it can take many forms - wind, flood, quake and fire. They all wreak havoc across the land – this is nature and it is inevitable. An earlier blog discussed some planning and preparing for an evacuation from outside disasters. Now, I would like to extend the conversation to fires. Whether a fire is caused by nature or by some other means, either require plans to prevent, maintain, prepare and execute. There are no guarantees that any program will eliminate the possibilities of damage; but, a proactive stance is a far better route than having to deal with a reactive consequence because of a lack of planning. Be safe, not sorry and protect your barn against a fire!

Prevention and safety are key measures to address, and require a comprehensive approach from identifying potential hazards, to taking every possible precaution. It is vital for horse owners, barn managers, trainers and anyone else involved with horses, on the property, to take responsibility for fire prevention and safety. Fire is a tragic devastation no one wants to contend and it is probably the most terrible form of death for a horse when trapped within the stable or barn. Fire safety and prevention assessments should become important components of your ‘Fire Program". With just a bit of knowledge, a lot of common sense and valuable preparation, a planned program is possible and executable. Safety must be on everyone’s mind at all times so, always be conscious of it; this is advantageous.

FACTS:

In the event of a wildfire, in your area, NEVER wait to move your horses. Wildfires can spread to cover many miles in just minutes.

Barns are made of and usually contain flammable materials: wood, stall bedding, hay, manure, leather, blankets, ropes, and highly combustible materials i.e. chemicals, solvents, oils...and the list goes on…take precautionary measures when storing, handling and disposing these items! Very few buildings are more flammable than a barn because of its contents. Most barns are a three-alarm fire waiting to happen. Do NOT store hay, stall bedding, manure piles, motorized farm equipment, lawnmowers, gasoline, propane, etc. inside or near your barn – they are highly combustible and are known to start fires. These items should be stored at a distance of at least 50’ from the barn. The burning rate of loose straw bedding is approximately 3 times that of burning gasoline. Hay can start fires through spontaneous combustion. Make sure hay has been cured properly before storing.  With manure piles, the same applies – keep them away from your barn. Wear natural fiber clothing and non-rubber soled shoes or boots in the barn; synthetic, rubber or nylon clothing will melt. Exposed skin begins to burn at 140◦. The above applies to halters and lead ropes for horses too. Use leather or cotton ones and hang at each stall to use in an evacuation. Metal can get hot enough to burn you and your horse so, if you have to, use ones with the least amount possible.

Frayed electrical wiring, short circuits and overloaded circuits are a leading cause of barn fires. Smoking is one of the five top causes of fires in the United States. Most horses that die in barn fires die of smoke inhalation – all too often, a fire smolders for a while, releasing toxic gases that kill the barn occupants before anyone even realizes there is a fire.

PLAN NOW:

Remember those fire drills in school? Have an evacuation plan in place and periodically, at least twice a year, perform them on your property  – involve everyone. This is a way to see if your plan works and if adjustments are necessary. Perform the drills during the day and night – leave the lights out to simulate no electricity. Having an effective evacuation plan will get you and your horse out safely. The Plan should be posted throughout your facility, where it is visible to everyone.

An Evacuation Plan should Include:

1. Stay CALM and DO NOT PANIC
2. Know to call 911 first
3. Open all outside access doors and gates to barn or stable area
4. Get humans out of the barn
5. *Begin evacuating horses
6. Keep roads, driveways on your property clear for easy fire department access
7. Know where fire pull stations are located
8. Know where the  fire fighting equipment is and how to use “first aid”:

• Hand extinguishers
• Water supply lines for hoses and buckets
• Shovels to spread dirt/sand over smoldering items or small flames
• Ladders for attention to roof

- Know to step aside when firefighters arrive - Use safety and do not attempt to evacuate horses or fight the fire if human lives are in danger

NUMBERS:

Depending on your particular set up, the following may or may not be practical. Whatever your situation, reading the contents gives you learned knowledge, which is priceless.

• Post important numbers - vet, farrier, emergency departments and in big red letters “Dial 911” for fire emergencies. Display numbers at all phone locations
• Post directions to your facility by all phones, giving multiple options and landmarks
• Ground all phone lines
• IMPORTANT NOTE: Cordless phones will not work in the event of an electrical failure – the old-fashioned rotary dial phones or cell phones should be used
• Make sure your house numbers are visible and readable from the street
• Post “NO SMOKING” signs in and around your barn. Strictly enforce this ban! There should be no smoking within a minimum of 20’ around the barn. Consider a “NO SMOKING” ban on trails. It would be best to provide designated smoking areas supplying containers for cigarette disposable – use sand in non-flammable containers.
  

Visible House Numbers from Street

Post " No Smoking" Signs

EVACUATION:

Evacuating horses should be customary and practiced often to familiarize you as well as the horses.

• Open ALL outside access doors and gates.
• Consider which horse should be evacuated first, this should be done BEFORE a fire. The oldest, weakest or a nervous-high strung horse should be stalled closest to an exit door.
• For each horse, keep a halter and lead rope on the outside of their stall door.
• For each horse, keep a scarf or bandanna on the outside of their stall door – it may be necessary to blindfold them during a fire. They usually spook from sights and sounds. Again, blindfolding your horses periodically will get them accustomed to this procedure. DO NOT wait for an actual fire to do this!
• All horses should be taught to halter and lead out in the dark; here again, DO NOT wait for an actual fire to do this.
• If your property is set up with a run from the barn to pasture and there is no time for haltering, open stall doors and let them loose heading for a pasture away from the fire. This is NOT the best strategy because, in a fire, some horses will revert to their survival instinct and try to return to the safety of their stall. With that said, it is an option, use good judgment and be prepared.
• Once the horses have been evacuated to their safe place, try to safely tie or secure them. Someone should stay with the horses to keep them as calm as possible – remember, you need to stay calm! Horses left alone will often try to join the rest of the herd, even if it means breaking through fences.
• Consider marking halters and lead ropes with “glow in the dark” paint or reflectors.  In addition, the “glow in the dark” tape may be applied on stall doors, exit doors, along the walls and floors with arrows to outside exterior doors. Have a pet tag made with name and phone number of owner and attach it to halter.
• Apply fire retardant spray to a couple of wool or acrylic blankets that can be easily obtained to throw over a horse or human protecting them against flying sparks and falling debris. This retardant may need to be reapplied frequently.

ACCESS:

• Keep roads/driveways free of debris for easy access for fire fighters and their equipment.
• Clear away weeds, tress, brush, debris, etc. at least 50’ around the perimeter of the barn, this creates a firebreak.
• Keep barn aisles free from debris – sweep hay and bedding daily, remove and dispose of properly.
• Remove dust and cobwebs regularly, they are fire hazards.
• Exterior access doors should swing towards the outside. Swinging doors may create difficulty when leading horses out of the barn. People in panic usually do not think to pull doors towards them. The most convenient doors for normal daily use are sliding doors and for an unproblematic evacuation, as well.
• All exits should be clearly marked.
• Install approved fire doors and firewalls where necessary.

Roads/Driveways Free of Debris for Easy Access

FIRE FIGHTING EQUIPMENT:

• Extinguishers should be portable and powder type - ABC/BC “powder” (2A-10BC rated) – these are effective against almost all types of fires*
• Install them in locations that are easily visible and accessible
• One at each entrance to the barn
• In the tack room
• In the feed room
• In the bedding storage area 
• They should be installed every 40’
• Protect extinguishers from freezing and have them checked yearly, by a professional.
• Check the gauge once a month to ensure they are fully charged.
  
• Every two months, turn them upside down and give them a few whacks with the flat of your hand to prevent the powder chemical from settling in the cylinders
• Have plenty of water supply lines inside and outside of the barn – keep hoses attached to them that will extend to all areas of the barn – water lines should be grounded.
• Keep empty water buckets throughout the inside and outside of your barn
• Have a few shovels in and around your barn
• Keep a ladder or two, located on the outside of your barn, that are capable of reaching rooftops

Consider installing a sprinkler system. The initial cost is considered high, but the results of this measure could save lives. Contact your insurance company for discounts on premiums. I needed a lesson on the various fire extinguishers available on the market and maybe I am not the only one. Therefore, you may find the following information beneficial. I have tried to list some information for you to use to make a more knowledgeable decision on purpose and type. The various fires are categorized into Fire Classes. There are six main types of fire class:

• Class A: Organic solids such as paper and wood
• Class B: Flammable liquid (not including those in Class F)
• Class C: Flammable gases
• Class D: Combustible metals, such as magnesium
• Class E: Live electrical items
• Class F: Cooking fat and oil

Powder Extinguishers: Powder extinguishers are most useful against class B and C fires (liquids and gasses) and are most commonly found in the following forms:

• Sodium bicarbonate
• Potassium bicarbonate
• Ammonium phosphate - also useful on class A fires
  

HOW to use a FIRE EXTINGUISHER: 

During times of panic, we may forget some simple, but important things. One possibility is how to use an extinguisher. Below is the rudimentary catchword usually taught to help remember.

PASS:

P - Pull the safety pin out. 
A - Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire from about 4-10 feet away. 
S - Squeeze the handle firmly.
S - Sweep the nozzle from side to side while aimed at the base of the fire.

ELECTRICAL:

• Install a grounded lightening rod system to protect your barn in electrical storms – check it regularly.
• Install smoke detectors (battery or hardwired) in every wing and on every level of your barn that sense heat and smoke. It may be necessary to install Co2 detectors depending upon the equipment in the barn. Possibly connect all detectors to an external siren or alarm in a place to be heard by someone when there is no one in the barn. Check detectors at least twice a year. Run these detectors, sirens, horns, etc. frequently, so your horses get familiar with the sounds.
• Install some power outlets on the outside of your barn. All outlets should be weatherproof and grounded.
• Cage all electrical light fixtures.
• Install the fuse box in the driest most dust free area in the barn, usually the tack room, feed room or the office.
• Try not to use extension cords, but if necessary use caution and use only industrial grade cords. DO NOT overload extension cords or any circuits. Keep cords away from horses and put them away after each use.
• Run armored BX cable or PVC piping to house electrical wires.
• Periodically check all electrical wiring and cords for damage. Rodents, rabbits, squirrels, etc. are known to chew through them. Barn cats are a great rodent eliminator. Remember have them spayed or neutered.
• Place electrical outlets out of the reach of horses.
• Install moisture and dust proof on/off switches.
• Electrical fence units should be UL approved and preferably of the intermittent current type vs. the continuous current units which are a higher fire risk. These units need to be located away from the barn in a weatherproof structure and they should be grounded.

Consider emergency lighting and a back up generator for your barn. A generator will be able to power lighting and water wells or pumps in the event of electrical failure.

STORAGE:

• Feed, hay, stall bedding, motorized farm equipment, manure piles, woodpiles and combustible materials should be housed in a separate building, with a distance of at least 50’ away. If this is not possible, store these items away from heat and spark sources. There are storage lockers on the market to house combustible materials.
• Dispose of used oily rags, paper or cloth, immediately and in proper containers away from the barn.
• Coat the wood in and on your barn with a fire retardant paint or stain. They should be non-toxic to children and animals. Applying this can give up to 75 percent more time to get your horses out of a burning structure. These applications may need to be reapplied on a regular basis to remain effective.
• If a trash can is necessary in the barn, use containers constructed of noncombustible material with self-closing lids, if possible.
  

Get started with your plan by contacting your local fire department or Fire Marshall for advice. Ask if they will walk through your facility to help point out fire prevention and safety steps you can take. Give them a copy of your facility: barn, stall layout and the pastures to be used in an evacuation. Also, supply them with your evacuation plan.   To conclude, some have experienced nature’s devastation and the consequences with much despair; sharing this learned knowledge will help others plan, prepare and possibly save lives. We would like to hear from you so others may benefit.  

Please note that these are general suggestions, guidelines and tips. Each facility is different, so plans must be designed specifically for your property. You should contact your local fire department for complete fire ordinances for your locality.

Go Green Tips:

• Replace incandescent bulbs with florescent. Use them in fixtures outside too, just make sure they are labeled for "outdoor use" and installed in protected and covered fixtures
• The most efficient task lighting in work areas and stalls comes from fixtures located on the sides, not above.
  

Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

Good luck, be prepared and stay safe!

Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.  
Author Unknown

Horse Behaviors

Horse Behaviors

Since I have been packing up the contents of our home for the move, I came across a little book filled with quite a bit of information listing some facts on “curious equine behaviors”. Lisa Dines wrote this little book. I thought it would be an interesting topic to cover. I have added some additional facts/theories that I have collected over time. Hopefully, you find the read enjoyable and if you have any interesting ones to contribute, please let us know - info@agreenhorse.com.

EYES

A horse has nearly 360 degrees of panoramic vision on each side of their bodies from the large eyes placed on the sides of their heads. Prey animals have eyes on the sides of their heads while predators’ placement is in front. The position of the eye provides both binocular and monocular vision. They can see forward using binocular vision (both eyes are used together). Vision to the sides and rearwards is monocular (they can see a different image with each eye). They also have a nictitating membrane or ‘third eyelid’, which helps protect the eye from dust and debris while grazing. 

• They have very good night vision.
• They see the slightest movement.
• Horses have the largest eyes of any land animal.

• The limitations horses have due to a 360-degree vision:
  

1. Close ups.
2. They have bad depth perception. They see a puddle, but cannot judge how far away. This is why trailer loading can be an issue. Horse trailers look like a long dark tunnel.
3. They do not see color very well.
4. Blind spots:

under nose – that is why they have whiskers to help them feel what is there
behind tail – where nature has provided them with powerful kicking and running devices – their hind legs and pelvic structure

• A horse that is asked to do something for the first time needs to investigate it; first by sight, then smell and touch before proceeding.

NOSE

FLEHMAN

A horse detects an odor and presses the smell into a sensitive organ located in its nasal cavity called the vomeronasal. The vomeronasal increases flow of air through nostrils and brings the scent through openings behind the incisors on the upper palette.

• When a Horse Breathes into another Horse’s Nostrils They:

1. are saying hello
2. are registering scent - how they remember each other

• If huffing escalates, (harder breathing) indicates a desire to work out dominance issues – this can lead to biting, squealing, striking or a kick.

• Two horses meeting may squeal and strike to show they will stay and fight for dominance vs. running away.

• Horses make Four Acoustic Sounds:

1. a squeal – dominance
2. a nicker – affection
3. a neigh or whinny – used to maintain contact with herd – can be heard by another horse ¼ mile away.
4. a scream /roar – occurs between rival stallions

• Horses make Two Non-verbal Acoustic Sounds:

1. a blow or snort – a blow is made for others in herd to pay attention or to quickly clear obstruction to better smell and a snort is softer than a blow and may indicate alarm, but not to others in herd
2. sneeze - clear nasal passages

• Horses cannot breathe through their mouth.

TEETH

• Adult Horses have:

1. 12 molars – dense, tall and constantly growing – they have ridges of enamel for grinding and placed at an angle for shearing
2. Six incisors – must meet together in front to be effective nippers

• Most wild horses die of malnutrition, not disease because of missing or worn down teeth.

• Male horses and sometimes mares grow pointed teeth in the space in-between the molars and incisors on both top and bottom called “canine” teeth. They can be rounded off and reduced in height so not to cause pain or injury.

• Some horses grow small, sharp, shallow rooted teeth called “wolf” teeth. They erupt next to the first molar on the top jaw. They are removed or they will dislodge by the bit and cause pain.

• Bits fit in a horse's mouth over his tongue and in the natural gap (called the bars) between its front and rear teeth. The bit is used for direction and pressure, not pain.

•  Horses lower their heads and neck, opening their mouth and clacking or clapping their teeth together communicating their subordinate behavior.

• Play fighting or fighting horses will bite the knees of the other horse bringing them down, showing undisputed dominance.

FOOD

• Cows, goats and sheep chew their cud to digest food. These animals are called Ruminants. They are cud chewing and can hold their food for hours longer in more digestive chambers and extract energy from a smaller amount of overall feed. Horses do not have to rest and chew their cud to digest food. This why they are raised as meat animals and horses are not.

• Horses have an organ called Cecum that breaks down plant cellulose quickly while on the run and are not cud chewing animals. This way a horse is more like a rhino. Horses prefer inhospitable, dry, rocky or sandy areas with low protein plants that cannot sustain cattle and sheep. The land with high deserts and rugged terrain in six western states and the shores of two eastern states are perfect natural habitats for them. They reproduce and live in the wild very well  in these areas.

• If a Horse cannot Graze on Nutritional Pastures or has No Exercise, these Problems will Occur:

1. aggression
2. colic, founder
3. ulcers
4. worn down teeth
5. worn down hooves
6. weaving
7. pacing
8. cribbing
9. chewing wood

• If a Horse is Overfed and has No Exercise, these Problems will Occur:

1. damage to internal organs
2. damage to hooves
3. damage to moods

• Horses grazing on a healthy pasture 24 hours per day with plenty of fresh water will have less stomachache pains or problems.

• Colic is a stomachache in horses.

• Horses will get ulcers if their stomach remains empty.

• Hay is important in winter because it takes the most energy to eat and digest and thus keeps them warm.

• Horses cannot vomit.

• Horses can experience stress when their routine and or surroundings change. Examples: difference in feed, water and schedule. These changes can affect them emotionally and physically and because they need to build up the necessary new bacteria in their guts to digest new things, gradually bring about food changes whenever possible.

• Horses will eat dried manure and foals will eat their mothers because it supplies the foal w/ the necessary gut flora to begin digesting plants.

WATER

• In the wild, horses create their own mud holes by pawing at the ground surrounding natural springs, then drinking from this. The pawing in water stirs up minerals the horses seek in their diet, which they drink along with the water. Use mineral salt blocks, not the white ones - Himalayan Rock Salt is the best.

Even with plenty of water in the troughs, Tsar will still drink from the watering hole.

• Horses should drink and eat from the ground or as low to it as possible. This simulates the full neck extension and is probably more comfortable and natural – like grazing on grasses.

• Horses can drink up to 10 gallons of water per day.

THE SPECIES

• Originally, there were Four Basic Horse Types:

1. wetland pony
2. wetland horse

The “wetlands” are stockier, hairier on legs (called feathering), thicker skin and less apt to flee – they are more inclined to stand their ground and fight; less sensitive

1. desert pony
2. desert horse

The “deserts” have lighter coats, thinner manes and tails, no leg feathering, lighter bones, thinner and narrower torsos, flighty and sensitive temperament

• From the Four Original Horse Types, the Following Breeds were Created (they are very old breeds):

1. Arabian
2. the Barb
3. the Large European Draft
4. War Horse
5. the Spanish Horse
6. the Exmoor Pony

All other breeds originated from these old breeds.

• Ponies are used to downsize a breed and horses are used to make breeds larger.

• Simple and Necessary Equine Pleasures: (in order)

1. eating
2. moving
3. grooming

• 4 Things that Shape a Horse's Behavior (in order) - Visit 4 Conditions

1. safety
2. comfort
3. play
4. food

• 4 Things that Shape a Horse's Personality (in order)

1. innate characteristics
2. learned behavior
3. environment
4. spirit

• Natural selection favors earth tones on prey animals so they blend well with the natural surroundings – browns, reds, chestnut, black and bays or – stripes (zebras) to dazzle and confuse the eye of the predator.
  

GENERAL INFORMATION

• We have Domesticated Horses because:

1. they are adaptable
2. curious
3. non-territorial
4. non aggressive
5. dependent
6. playful
7. submissive
8. useful

• Horses like to hang out with humans because they benefit from their bounty.

• Horses gain security from their heard by establishing a pecking order. Humans can fulfill this dominance by showing leadership. This is why humans have been able to manage horses for so long. More on herd pecking order, Visit  "Treat with Respect".

• The more confident and relaxed you are, the more your horse will enjoy your company and direction.

• Horses are prey animals and sleep better when in groups. One or some of them will sleep while others stand guard to watch for predators. A horse kept alone will not sleep well because its instincts are to keep a constant eye out for danger.

• Horses have a stay apparatus in their legs that lock and it enables them to stand and doze off. They can lock each leg individually. Horses sleep about five hrs per day and need 30 minutes lying flat to achieve deep REM (rapid eye movement) sleep. When they are in “REM” sleep, they sleep peacefully, dream, twitch, grunt and snore.

• Horse's legs are long and light. The lower legs have less muscle and thinner bones than the upper parts of its body. These fragile legs carry a huge body mass. If something happens to a leg, it is slow to heal because the horse must distribute its weight on all four legs to stand up.

• Hoof problems are the biggest source of debilitating lameness. Most hoof lameness is preventable. Hoof ailments Visit - "Horse Behaviors, Grooming".

• Both domesticated and in the wild, mares go off from the herd to give birth. Most mares give birth at night for safety. The eyes of predators are not as abundant and the herd is not as active allowing the time necessary for birth. Mares prefer a familiar clean stall or grass sterilized by the sun. The foal is usually born 20 minutes after the water breaks. Most foals are born front feet and head first with one leg preceding the other so the shoulders come out at a narrow slant.

• Within an hour of birth, a newborn foal can stand and within 24 hours, the foal can run with the herd.

• When first born, a foal cannot eat grass because its legs are too long for its mouth to reach it. As time goes on, it will learn to spread its legs enabling its mouth to reach it.

• Swayback is caused from weakened back ligaments because of overuse, carrying too many foals or lack of proper conditioning.

• For the safety of the horse, 20% of its body weight is the maximum weight it should carry.

• Horses roll because they have extremely sensitive skin that is exposed to insects, the elements, sweaty saddle blankets, badly fitting tack and sometimes just plain itchy. They cannot really scratch or message their own spines in any other way. It is said that rolling is the “horsey” equivalent of going to a chiropractor for a spinal adjustment, especially if he rolls all the way over and back again.

• If a horse cannot move forward or backward (feels trapped) he may rear.

• Bucking under saddle usually indicates fear, discomfort or pain.

• Horses refuse to go if the rider is not a leader, if the human takes advantage of the horse or has a problem balancing the rider. The horse usually is afraid.

• Horses have dense undercoats in the winter, a layer of fat under their skin for insulation and a longer outer coat, which can have vertical swirl patterns that act as little gullies to carry rain to the ground.

• Horses and humans are the only animals that sweat through their skin to keep cool.

• The direction of the hair on a horse has patterns or whorls. These whorls are unique to the individual horse as fingerprints are to humans. Some horse registries still use these distinctive whorls for identification of horses.

Go Green Tips:

• supply your horse with stimulating items in his pasture and stall

- reuse an old tire and hang it high enough in a tree where with an extended neck, your horse can barley touch it with its nose

- fill the underneath sides of small traffic cones with spray foam and put some in the pasture

- buy a child's hoppity hop and throw it in the pasture

- hang a large rubber dog pull with an eye hook and a double ended eye clip, in your horse's stall. Hang at horse's eye level.

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

The wind of heaven is that which blows between a horse's ears. 
Arabian Proverb

Horse Vital Signs

EQUINE VITAL SIGNS

Y our equine's "normal" vitals are valuable information to know. The “Quick Facts” below are the vitals of a healthy mature horse. Use this chart as a comparison once you have obtained your equine's "normal" vital signs. Create a chart on your horse and keep it in your barn making access easy; a copy in your first aid kit is a good idea too. You should try and remember this information AND have it available for anyone who may be caring for your horse when you are not around. Vitals should be routine when examining your horse's health condition.

Quick Facts: 

Temperature - A horse's normal body temperature is 99 - 101 F

Pulse - The normal pulse rate, most often taken by listening to the heart on the left side of the chest just behind the left elbow, is 36 to 42 beats per minute. Young stock and ponies tend to be a bit faster 

Respiration -The normal rate for horses is between 8-12 breaths per minute

Capillary refill time - 2 seconds - This is the time it takes for color to return to gum tissue adjacent to teeth after pressing and releasing with your thumb

. 

Every horse owner needs to know what is “normal” for his or her horse. Knowing how your horse acts and reacts when he is feeling good will help you to realize faster when there is something "not right" with him. Perception can give an indication that something is wrong and an exam of your horse's vitals will let you know for certain the extent of his condition. Knowing your horse's normal vital signs and comparing those numbers to times when one might suspect that he is ill can be a very helpful aid in determining how quickly he needs veterinarian assistance. Attaining all of the signs before veterinary help arrives can often give a much clearer picture on the level of concern and the vet's response rate.

This page is to educate you on equine vital signs; learning what is normal and what is not for your horse will help you in its care. The information below is an example of the necessary steps one can take to acquire the normal aspects of their horse.

Temperature:

Take your horse's temperature when he is healthy so you can get a normal reading for him. The normal temperature for the horse is 100.0 degrees. However, a horse's temperature can vary somewhat with the season. During the winter, it is not uncommon for the temperature to drop to as low as 97. Usually a low reading is not a concern, but on the other hand a higher than normal temperature is an indication that something isn't right. During the winter, any temperature above 100.5 should be suspect; average fevers normally run from 101.5 up to 104. The summer heat, as well as any exercise can often raise the core temperature upward even without a fever. This must be taken into account when the assessment is made. A race or show horse after intense competition can have a core temperature up to 105. Even at rest in the summer heat under a tree, a temperature of 101 may not be considered abnormal. Therefore, events preceding the acquisition of the temperature must be taken into account before it is interpreted. A high core temperature does not always indicate a severe condition, but if it is 102 F or over with no known activity, you should call your veterinarian.

How To Take a Horse's Temperature:

The most accurate way to take a horse's temperature is rectally. Always secure a string to the end of the thermometer so that it does not get lost. The plastic digital thermometers work very well and are generally easier to use and most of them beep when they are ready. Be sure that if you use an older mercury-type thermometer that you shake down the mercury before taking the horse's temperature.

The horse should be tied or held still by an assistant. Lubricate the tip of the thermometer with petroleum jelly like Vaseline. Move the horse's tail to the side out of the way and insert the thermometer into the horse's rectum, angled slightly towards the ground. Stand close to the horse's hip and do not stand directly behind the horse because some horses do not like this and might kick out - but most do not mind. For the most accurate reading, leave a mercury thermometer in position for at least 3 minutes. Many digital thermometers work well in less than 1 minute.

Important: Always clean the thermometer well before returning it to its case...and especially if used on an ill horse to prevent the spreading of an illness.

Pulse:

Checking the pulse rate

Another place to check the pulse rate

The pulse rate most often taken is by listening to the heart on the left side of the chest just behind the left elbow. The normal rate is 40 beats per minute. Fit horses may have rates as low as 28 and this is not considered abnormal. However, ANY rate above 40 throws up a red flag and should be explored. Rates between 40-60 are considered "serious" and may be explained by an elevated temperature, indicating a problem. Rates above 80 are considered "critical" and indicative of a very serious problem. Of course, these rates apply to a horse at rest and any exercise just before taking the pulse should be taken into consideration. In addition, if the horse is suddenly excited it may be elevated on a temporary basis. Listen to the rate for at least a minute; check to see if it comes down before recording the final rate.

Zapp is showing the various places you can check a horse's pulse. Each area is indicated below and correlates with the number in the picture.

1. The inner surface of the groove under the lower jaw - (external maxillary artery).
2. The back edge of the lower jaw (the check), four inches below the eye - (facial artery).
3. Under the tail, close to the body - (medial coccygeal artery).
4. Point where heartbeat can be monitored with stethoscope.
5. Inside the left elbow, up and forward, against the chest wall - (heart).
6. The inside of the foreleg - (median artery).
7. Behind the carpus, or knee - (digital artery).
8. Medial or lateral pastern - (digital artery).
   

Respiration:

The normal rate for horses is between 8-12 breaths per minute. However, many things can affect this and must be taken into account before judging whether it is abnormal. Other characteristics of breathing, rather than just the rate may be more of an overall indicator of problems. Deep heavy breathing, breathing with an extra abdominal effort, abnormal noise, labored breathing or gasping point to a very serious problem. Report any observations to your vet that are anything but quiet and easy breathing.

Mucus Membrane Color:

The normal color is pink. Gums that are pale, deep red, purple, overly yellow or streaked with the appearance of small broken blood vessels are abnormal and should be recorded. Some of the causes for abnormal appearance are listed below:

Pale: Low perfusion of blood indicating a "shock" condition.

Deep red: Congested membranes, also a shock type condition with toxicity.

Purple or blue: Low oxygen levels or serious toxicosis.

Overly yellow: Gums are normally slightly yellow, but very yellow may be a liver problem.

Capillary Refill Time:

After depressing the gums, the color should return within 1-2 seconds. Delayed return of color, 3 seconds or more, is an indication of poor blood perfusion often brought on by serious dehydration, shock or toxicosis. Borborygmus:
This refers to the sounds that the gut makes in digesting the feed. A horse should have a normal gurgling sound on both sides of the abdomen back near the flanks. Several horses should be assessed before making a determination of what can be considered "normal", "none", "low", or "hypermotile".

During colic episodes, horses with little or no gut sounds may be in serious condition. A hypermotile gut may be indicating an irritation and this may be coupled with a loose stool or diarrhea. Assessing the gut sounds from one moment to the next may indicate whether a horse's condition is improving or deteriorating. Take this and all of the vital signs frequently.

Your vet will listen for "gut sounds" (digestive sounds) in the locations above on both the left and right side of your horse. You should be familiar with the normal gut sounds your horse makes.

Hydration:

The best way to determine hydration is through an assessment of the horse’s blood parameters. However, using the "skin turgor test" can often be a quick field aid. The skin over the shoulder should be pinched with some elevation of the skin. If it snaps back into place very quickly, the horse may be considered adequately hydrated. Any delay should be suspect and assessed along with the other vital signs. Older horses tend to have a more relaxed skin, so this should be taken into account. Again, assessing this parameter when the horse can be considered healthy will help determine "normal".

It is important to remember that all the vital signs must be regarded when assessing your horse's health/problem. One parameter that may be outside the normal boundaries may not be overly significant when all of the others are within normal bounds. In addition, some abnormal vital signs may adequately explain why others are irregular, such as an increased pulse rate associated with a fever. The combination of all of the signs are needed and when compared to your horse's "normal" range can offer an informed judgement on the level of concern.

TIPS from the TRAIL:

Again, it is important to keep a record on the values of the normal vital signs for your horse. This is basic medical evidence for determining if your horse is ill and will assist you and your veterinarian in the examination of your horse.

To establish a basis, you need to identify the “normal” vitals of your horse. First, your horse should be rested and calm for at least 30 minutes up to the evaluation. You need to obtain the horse’s vitals and log the readings twice a day for three days, then average the analysis. Choose varying times of the day, morning, afternoon, and evening to gain the assessments.

Whether your horse is interested in feed/grass or not will tell you very quickly if there is reason for concern.

Go Green Tips:

•  Use Rechargeable Batteries:
  - less go in landfills than regular batteries
  - a single rechargeable battery can be recharged 500 to 1,000
  times (Note: DO NOT use rechargeable batteries in smoke or carbon monoxide alarms.)
• have a radio in the barn and play music that creates a parallel with the mood you wish to portray for the horses
  

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

The outside of a horse is good for the inside of man. 
Author Unknown

Horse First Aid - Evacuations

Horse First Aid / Evacuations

Before I get too far down the road with all these issues, I believe it is crucial to be prepared for those “emergency” moments. Even though we should always try to prevent them, sometime during the time of your horse ownership there is a possibility you will encounter an emergency. Whether medical or weather related, “An ounce of Prevention is worth a Pound of Cure”… so, Be Ready!

The weather can pose terrible threats to our horses as we have seen with the Midwest floods and the current hurricane devastation along our coasts. At this writing, three hurricanes are spinning in the Atlantic heading towards the Eastern Seaboard. In the event of an evacuation, you should have plans in place to act.

Medical emergencies will require planning and preparations too. You need to remain safe, calm, act quickly and smartly and call for help. For your horse’s benefit, you will need to perform responsibly; especially to any signs of distress. You should have a plan in advance in possible emergencies. Here are some thoughts to better prepare you and your horse for an emergency...

In the event of a medical emergency…
REMEMBER to CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY!

This phone number, as well as your farrier’s should be plastered in your barn, in your first aid kit and/or better yet plastered on the back of your eyelids

Evacuation Tips for Farm Animals:

• Evacuate animals as soon as possible. Be ready to leave once the evacuation is ordered
• Arrange your evacuation route in advance
• Arrange a place to house your animals
• Plan an alternate evacuation route. Alternate routes should be mapped out in case the planned route becomes inaccessible
• Set up safe transportation. Make sure to have experienced animal handlers and drivers to transport them
• Most evacuation sites will REQUIRE a negative Coggins test and/or medical records on your horse
• Take your supplies with you. At these sites you should have, or be able to obtain readily, food, water, bedding, veterinary care, handling equipment for your horse, and generators if necessary. To be sure, ask the facility what you are responsible to bring BEFORE arriving
  

Work with your state department of agriculture, if your animals cannot be evacuated

Our area supplies a website with horse evacuation sites and other valuable information, in the case of emergencies. Check your locality for any information they may offer; start with the Public Information office in your area

Another bit of information, there is a company out there for roadside assistance, if you breakdown, while traveling with your equestrians.
The link is...http://www.usrider.org/index2.html



Every horse owner needs first aid essentials located in some form of an easily accessible container. If the horse’s situation is minor, your kit should be able to handle the needs to attend the problem. If the situation is an emergency, the supplies can help until your veterinarian arrives. I have a suitcase made of canvas on wheels. It has two red crosses, one on each side, to indicate to everyone its contents. It stays in the barn with the horses and it is easily transportable to carry with us whenever we travel. Always let someone else know where your kit is in the barn, travel trailer or vehicle

Depending on the destination with the horses, adjustments may be necessary to the kit. Below is a basic  list of supplies for a kit. Design your kit to fit your needs. Consult with your veterinarian

Basic First Aid Kit Supplies and Functions:

Baking Soda – for Bee stings
Bandages – protect wounds, support muscles and hold ice packs with horse leg wraps or self-adhesive bandages
Blunt tipped scissors – safely cut away and remove bandages and wraps
Buckets – soak hooves and more
Duck Tape – will hold anything together, if necessary
Flashlight / Spare Batteries – view wounds in the darkness or poor light conditions
Hoof Pick – scrape away hoof debris
Hemostat – remove splinters, burrs, thistles and more from your horse’s skin
Ice Packs – prevent and reduce swelling
Lubricant – help insert thermometers - use mineral oil or petroleum jelly
Permanent Marker Pen – you never know when you may need to write or mark something
Peroxide - disinfectant for wounds
Pliers – to pull nails
PVC Pipes – cut 6” diameter piping in half, lengthwise and then into 1 ½ to 2 ' sections for use as an emergency splint
Rubbing Alcohol – quickly disinfect scissors, thermometers and more
Sheet or Roll Cotton –help apply pressure bandages or other support to injured muscles or bones
Stethoscope – to monitor vitals
Sterile Gauze – clean and cover minor cuts and wounds with sterile gauze. Use to hold dressings and pressure wraps in place
Surgical Gloves – keeps your hands clean and help prevent wound contamination
Syringes - administering medications and applying solutions
Thermometer – measure your horse’s temperature (normal range is 99°F to 101° F)
Tweezers – to remove foreign objects from skin
Used Hoses -  2 hoses, each approximately 1 foot long. After a horse is bitten by a venomous creature, nostrils can swell constricting airways;  lubricate hoses with petroleum jelly and insert one in each nostril for airflow. It is important to ask your vet to show you how to do this before you need the knowledge
Vinegar or Lemon Juice – for Wasp stings
Wire Cutters – free your horse from fences/wire
Wound Antiseptic – prevent infections with an antiseptic powder or ointment
Wound Cleanser – clean fresh wounds with a gentle, iodine solution like Providone 10%

You should have your vet and farrier’s phone numbers in the kit. In addition, a complete record of medications, vaccinations and wormings should be included. Tag the container with your name, address and contact numbers

More Related Information Links: 

"Herbs for My Horses, The Gardens"

 "Herbs for My Horses, Their Names"

"Herbs for My Horses, Their Uses"

"Horse Pest Control-B" 

"Horse Pest Control"

"Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"

Helpful Extras to Add in Kit:

Electrolytes – help hydrate your horse (black strap molasses)
Eye Cleanser – flush away dirt and debris from eyes (Clear eyes)
Fly Mask – protect face wounds and eyes
Hoof Boot – treat abscesses and sore feet (men’s tube socks)
Medicated Shampoo – kill bacteria and fungi on your horse’s skin and coat with an iodine-based shampoo
Poultice – draw out infections; soothe sore muscles and more (Epsom Salts)
Tail Wrap – protect your horse’s tail and/or keep it out of the way

NOTE: A wound must be properly disinfected once, as continual disinfecting inhibits healing. You may use peroxide, iodine or a 10% copper sulfate solution. If nothing else, isopropyl rubbing alcohol or drinking alcohol - gin, whiskey, vodka, etc - will do the job. This disinfectant must be syringed into the wound if necessary and all dirt removed if possible.

NOTE: Check your supplies and the expiration dates regularly

Helpful Tips

1. Stay Calm
2. Act Quickly and Smartly
3. Call for Help
4. Stay Safe
5. Wash your Hands (with rubbing alcohol from the kit) and Apply Gloves before Addressing Wounds
6. Consider any Wound as a Concern
7. Consider Wounds are Better Sutured
8. Never Cut off Skin Flaps
9. Be Especially Concerned with the Horse that is very Lame Soon after Injury
10. Wounds of the Lower Leg are often the most Serious
11. Always be Concerned about Tetanus

The importance of risk management for safe horse keeping is essential. Try to maintain your property regularly for sharp objects that need removing, holes that should be filled, fences in need of repair, etc. and apply this same idea whenever and wherever you and your horse may travel.  

Try to Be Ready... always!

More on risk management, 

"Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"

Go Green Tips:

• Make an economical poll guard for traveling; cut a slit at each end of a rectangular piece of foam rubber and then slip the headpiece of the halter through them
• Have a dog tag engraved with your name, address and phone number and attach it to your horse's halter, bridle, etc before threatening weather or while traveling, in case you and your horse ever part company
• Use reflector tape on your horse's headstall / blanket

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

A horse is a thing of beauty… none will tire of looking at him as long as he displays himself in his splendor.

Xenophon

Horse Pest Control - Part B

Horse Pest Control - Part B

Okay, in dealing with a recent wasp sting on Tsar, I realized I did not mention these robust creatures and other “pesky” tidbits of information on stingers and biters, in the previous blog Horse Pest Control. This omitted a stockpile of information, so get ready for another in-depth blog below. Tsar is my sensitive horse, all the way around; physically (medically speaking), mentally and emotionally. His skin is affected even by the smallest of annoyances. For him, all it takes is one bite and the ramifications are usually something that I need to contend with.

      Any sting or bite can cause an allergic reaction and the "pests" that cause this harm, at a minimum, create displeasure and irritation. Reaction to an attack on your horse should be handled with proper attention along with methods to repel future ones. Applying repellants usually requires multiple applications daily to be effective; this undertaking can be very hard to accomplish. So, remember the best “prevention” is to maintain the highest of standards for cleanliness on your property and to be observant!

Insects Attack Horses in Different Ways; Some Information on these Adversaries:

• Nuisance flies eat secretions in and around the horse’s eye, mouth, nose and other sensitive spots. The house fly and face fly are the opponents. They do not bite but are still parasitic on the animals because they feed on discharges; such as secretions found around the eyes and nose. Activity around the hosts' eyes allows face flies to be potential vectors of eye diseases, such as pinkeye. Sticky fly papers or ribbons are effective at eliminating a few flies in relatively confined areas, but are not effective enough to manage heavy infestations or to provide control in an outdoor setting

• Biting flies can pierce the horse’s skin and extract its blood - They are:

Midges (Biting Gnats - No See Ums) (Cullicides) are very small and hover in swarms at dawn and dusk. They lay their eggs in standing water, so avoid stagnant areas. They hover over manure piles, so spread piles in pastures periodically and remove piles in and around barn. A mixture of 50 parts water to 50 parts bath oil can be made up into a spray bottle and applied several times a day to prevent flies landing on horses

Black flies (Simullidae) breed in rapidly moving water and commonly feed around the face, particularly in the ears, on the neck and underside. These bites may trigger an allergic reaction from their saliva. Bites form as painful lumps, often with pinprick areas of bleeding and crusting. Species which feed in the ears of horses can be controlled using petroleum jelly in the interior of the horses' ears or let the hair grown in the horse's ears just as nature intended

Stable flies lay eggs in moist, rotting vegetation – mostly hay or silage that is contaminated with urine, water or manure. Peaks of feeding activity commonly occur during the early morning and again in the late afternoon. These flies like to feed on horses’ legs and abdomens. Bites typically appear as itchy or painful wheals or papules with a central crust. Again, proper hygiene on your property should always be applied

Bot Flies or Gadflies are large flies that buzz around livestock laying their eggs on the hairs of their host in the summer. During grooming, the horse will swallow the eggs and then the eggs will hatch inside the body. The tiny larvae then burrows through the soft tissue in the horse's intestinal tract. Eventually the larvae appear as large maggots in the stomach of a horse during the winter months. In extreme cases, rupture of the host's stomach wall can occur and death can follow

- Remove bot fly eggs with a disposable plastic safety razor

Horn Flies usually are a pest of cattle, but if your horse grazes near cattle these challengers will attack horses. Horn flies have spear-like piercing mouthparts protruding from under their heads which allow them to feed on the blood of their host. Most of the time, the horn fly remains on its animal host day and night. Usually, they attack the shoulders, back and sides of the cattle/horse. Horn flies will move to the belly during hot and rainy weather. Female horn flies lay their eggs in fresh cattle manure

Deer Flies and Horse flies belong to the fly family Tabanidae. These pests seem to cause the most pain and alarm to the horses. Female horse and deer flies are vicious, painful biters. They are able to penetrate the skin in a scissor-like manner; inflicting deep wounds that cause a flow of blood. They feed on the blood of cattle, horses, dogs, deer and other warmblooded animals. Their habitat is woody plants and wet areas; ponds, marshes and ditches. Tabanids lie in wait in shady areas under bushes and trees for a host to happen by. Sight is the main host finding mechanism, but carbon dioxide and odor also play a role. Moving objects, especially if dark colored, are most prone to attack.  Attacks occur during daylight hours with a peak beginning at sunrise and lasting about three hours. A second peak is two hours before sunset and commences shortly after. They are most active on warm, sultry days, especially around woodlands. Attack frequency is lower on overcast days or at temperatures below 71 and above 89º F.

      The bites appear as painful papules (pimples) and wheals (small lumps) with a characteristic central ulcer. Tsar was bitten by a horsefly on his chest and the bite swelled to the size of a dime and became crusty with secretion. Horse flies/ deer flies rarely venture into dark areas, so stabling during peak attack times can offer some protection to your horse. There are no true means for controlling insect invasions, but proper sanitation on your property will help manage their populations. Most tools do not work in reducing raids, but there are a few available. Traps can be effective in controlling small areas. A common trap shown to have success has a spherical, black and shiny ball. The flies are attracted to these objects as the wind moves them. Some are built with netting over the ball allowing flies to arrive, but preventing them from flying away.

A variation to this trapping method is called the “sticky black ball” trap. Basically it is a beach ball painted black and coated with a sticky substance called Tangle-Trap. This product comes in a spray or liquid applicator and is available at Ace Hardware stores.

This device is hung from a tree limb using string, in a shaded area, about 4 feet above the ground. Movement of the ball by the wind attracts the flies. Flies land on the device, get stuck, and die on the ball. Several of these balls will reduce the local adult populations. Milk jugs can be used instead of a ball; remember to paint it black. Jugs are easier to hang.

• Spiders are intruders and set up home were ever they choose. They will run and hide or simply hang there depending on the situation; they can be sneaky and will do what it takes to stay around.The majority of spiders are not poisonous and gratefully, the fangs of most are too weak to penetrate the thick skin of a horse. If a horse is bitten, the affected area can be a large swollen bump causing localized irritation and itch. Spider bites are more frequent in autumn when they move indoors for the winter. The spider has a few favorite habitats; woodpiles outdoors and indoors the undisturbed areas such as corners and behind objects on shelving.
  
  As unwanted arrivals inside, eviction is the only way to remove them. Clean out all undisturbed areas inside barns or any sheltered area to remove nests. A great evict-or is a wet/dry vac; consider getting one for your barn. Be careful and wear protective clothing when necessary. A cat is a great defense on spiders. Ours will chase one down, trap it in their paws and continue with various torments until it lies still forever. It is a good idea to shake your hay flakes before letting the horses dive in.

• Mosquitoes have mouths that are adapted for piercing the skin of plants and animals. They annoy livestock and can cause weight loss, reduced milk production, and poor reproduction. Adults often rest in weeds, tall grass or other vegetation but these areas are not their reproduction sites. The females seek out suitable pools to deposit eggs. They are strong fliers and can travel long distances from their breeding spots; however, they usually go only far enough to seize blood from a host.
  
  The females do not feed on the blood of warmblooded bodies i.e. horses and humans, but collect it for the protein; enabling egg development. Mosquitoes are therefore vectors for a number of infectious diseases affecting millions. Mosquitoes transmit several diseases in horses and they can be fatal. Most vets recommend vaccinations against diseases; although vaccinations cannot guarantee disease prevention in all circumstances, but they help minimize the risk of infection and aid in the prevention of certain diseases. Not all diseases have a vaccine and inoculations are only one component of prevention in an effective management program. Reducing breeding grounds on your property is another factor one needs to avert insect population. 
  
  Ideal territories are marsh lands, woodland pools, swamps and other wetland habitats. Of course, these natural environments are beyond an individual's control, but knowing their locations in your surroundings, horses should be sheltered away from these areas. If nothing else, stall your horse during peak flying times. Stagnant water is a prime mosquito environment for reproduction and the part you can play to mange them on their property. Don’t let water collect around your home/barn, in ditches, gutters, containers, or pools.

Mosquito Born Diseases in Horses:

- Western (WEE), Eastern (EEE) and Venezuelan (VEE) Equine Encephalitis
- West Nile Virus (WNV)
- Equine Infectious Anemia (Swamp fever)

Recipes for Eco-friendly Mosquito Repellents

#1)

Thoroughly rub pure vanilla extract in circular motions onto a few areas of your horse. An excellent repellent, it overwhelms mosquito sensory organs but, produces a pleasant smell that both you and your horse will enjoy

#2)
Lemon Balm or a yarrow tea can be misted on to horses to help repel mosquitoes - safe for children too

#3)
2 ounces witch hazel extract*
60 drops citronella essential oil

For a 5% dilution - Put witch hazel into a lotion or spray bottle; add 60 drops of citronella essential oil. Shake well before each use. For a 10 % dilution - add 120 drops of citronella.

* Note: Olive oil, rubbing alcohol or vodka can be used in place of the witch hazel

#4)
Mosquito Repellent Oil

2 ounces distilled water
2 ounces olive oil
120 drops citronella essential oil

A lotion is an emulsification of water and oil. To prepare: Put water into a deep mixing bowl. Begin to drizzle in the oil slowly and beat vigorously with a wire whisk. By the time all the oil is added you should have a nice creamy white lotion. Stir in the citronella oil. Pour into a lotion bottle.

#5)
Mosquito Herbal Repellent Oil

1/4 cup fresh pennyroyal
1/4 cup fresh thyme
1/8 cup fresh basil
1/8 cup neem leaf (if available)
tea tree essential oil
citronella essential oil
1 cup olive oil

If possible, pick your fresh herbs. Remove any dirt and place them in a sunny place until the herbs are wilted. Place first 4 herbs into a crock pot. Pour in olive oil - this should cover the herbs plus another inch of oil above them. Turn crock pot on low temperature and heat mixture for about 3 hours. *

When mixture is finished heating, strain your oil through a cheesecloth lined strainer. Squeeze out as much oil as possible. Pour strained mixture into a glass measuring cup to measure how much oil liquid you have. For each ounce of oil, use the following formula to add citronella and tree tea oil to the mixture - 10 drops of citronella essential oil and 5 drops of tea tree oil
Pour into a squirt bottle

*Instead of using a crock pot to prepare your lotion, place all ingredients in a clear glass jar and set it in the sun for about five days. Shake it once or twice a day. Strain and pour into a squirt bottle


#6)
2 oz oil (almond or olive)
2 oz citrus oil
2 tsp vanilla extract

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake

#7)
Goldenseal is a great natural insect repellant

• Lice, Mites and Ticks There are two types of lice; biting and sucking lice and both parasitize horses. Biting lice feed on shed skin or scurf and on secretions from the skin where as sucking lice feed on blood. Both types of lice reproduce throughout the year. However, these pests are most common during the winter months.
  
  Several types of mites cause skin conditions, collectively called mange. These mites are very difficult to see without magnification. The general symptoms of mange include areas of cracked, dry skin and formation of scabs. Their activity is extremely irritating to its host and the results are scratching, rubbing and licking at infested areas. Secondary infections of the infested areas are possible.
  
  Ticks are a hardy life form and Mother Nature has provided us with a wide variety, suited to a wide range of climatic conditions. Several species of ticks may occasionally become pests on horses. After attaching to its host and gorging on blood, a tick will inflate to about 1/2 inch long. Unfed ticks are flat and hard. Populations may cause anemia and with heavy infestations, death of the animal from excessive blood loss can occur. The two most common diseases horses can contract via ticks are Lyme disease and piroplasmosis (piro).
  
  The tick population can be kept to a minimum by maintaining fields and paddocks in a closely mowed state while horses should be kept out of wooded or overgrown areas. Usually ticks are abundant on sick, low-pH soil. Have soils tested and topdressed with the required lime minerals if your property falls prey. The primary sites of tick infestation on the horse are the ears, mane, tail, and under the tail, around the anus and vulva. The life-cycle of a tick is 2 - 3 years. So, when removing ticks do not fling them onto the ground.
  
  - The "hammer" method is very effective for the demise of ticks or dropping them into a container of water is just as successful because ticks are poor swimmers
  
  - Tea Tree Oil is great for removing and killing ticks
  
  - Vicks Vapor Rub - a glob on for 5 minutes and the tick wipes right off
  
  - any type of alcohol applied to the tick will remove it
  
  Lice and mites spread from horse to horse by direct contact or by the use of common grooming tools and tack. Do not share tools and tack amongst horses! Good grooming and adequate nutrition are essential to maintain the health of the horse. So, groom frequently for it plays an important role in the early detection of lice, mites and ticks.
  
  - Sponging areas where nits are attached with warm water (110 to 112 F) may stimulate some eggs to hatch and the small larvae can then be washed off. This has to be repeated frequently because new eggs are attached daily. This treatment is most effective if it is used on a cool day

Tick Born Diseases in Horses:

-Equine Ehrlichiosis

-Equine Piroplasmosis -Colorado Tick Fever

-Tularemia Spotted Fever 

-Tick Payalysis 

-Equine Granulocytic Anaplasmosis 

-Heartwater

Recipes for Eco-friendly Tick Repellents

 
#1)
Mix 10 parts witch hazel and 1 part lemon eucalyptus oil in a spray bottle. Spray your pet - safe for people too  

#2)
1 cup Avon Skin-So-Soft
1 cup water
1 TBSP lemon eucalyptus oil
2-3 TBSP apple cider vinegar

Add ingredients in to a spray bottle 
 
#3)
10 drops of rose geranium oil
15 drops tea tree essential oil
15 drops lavender essential oil
10 drops cedarwood essential oil
10 drops lemon eucalyptus oil
4 oz. Distilled or filtered water

Mix ingredients into a spray bottle  

Note: To treat a tick bite, make sure the tick has been removed and apply the following dressing.

Make the dressing from a piece of cloth or a feminine pad. Smear it with petroleum jelly or something similar; creating the same size as the affected area to be treated. Sprinkle the petroleum with sodium ascorbate and cover well. Apply to bite and reapply until it clears up. Vitamin E oil can then be used on the area to encourage hair growth. Administer sodium ascorbate, 1 tablespoon daily in feed while treating. This treatment works for any bite from an insect.

Recipe for Removing Lice: 

#1)
10 drops of tea tree essential oil*
4 TBSP oil (vegetable or olive oil)
spatula
1 cup distilled vinegar
1 cup warm water
mixing bowl
shampoo

Mix ingredients into a spray bottle. Spray the infested hair - coat well, with the mixture and leave on for 2 or 3 hours. After waiting, dip a fine tooth comb into a mixture of warm water and vinegar. Using only one stroke, comb out the dead lice. Rinse the comb after every stroke in the vinegar solution - repeat as necessary. Then wash the hair with a regular shampoo to remove the oil  

*Note: tea tree oil can be replaced with citronella oil, rosemary oil or lavender oil

• Snakes probably raise the most hairs of all the "pest" that could be around the farm. Physically freezing in place with my soul jumping out about 10 feet or even panicking to the extent of running the other way with my heart in my throat. These reactions usually result in wasted energy for the snake does not want to see me either and hurriedly slips away. On my behalf, my husband plays exterminator grabbing for the shovel and cutting ... - well you get the picture. I know I have to reconsider this permanent decision; as long as the snake is not venomous maybe a trip to the woods is more appropriate. I do not like the thought of any snakes around and the resolution on what to do will be pondered upon for quite some time. In the meantime, preventative measures are our number one weapon and learning some facts about them was essential in carrying this out.
   
  There are many types of snakes and they are found in most countries of the world. They are practically everywhere and probably a few are lurking in the yard right now. Knowing the poisonous ones in your area can only be beneficial. Numerous sites on the web are available for this information. Again, not liking any snakes I am biased against them and my reactions to them are a bit extreme. For the most part, and quite frankly for the best; horses are not effected this way when a snake is present. Maybe a slight head lift with a quick glance as one slithers by or possibly never looking away from the forage in front of his eyes as he continues to graze are their most likely responses. Your horses will probably encounter a snake in their pasture roaming for forage and the potential of one of these slithering reptiles biting them is possible.   
  
  Whether venomous or not, most snakes have teeth and are capable of biting. It is believed snakes have a conscious choice whether to bite the victim or not and if poisonous to inject venom when biting. Snakes are not attackers unless they are scared, provoked, defending a nest or themselves. More likely than not, snakes bite horses to warn them off and because of a grown horse's size, they have a good chance of survival if bitten. A few things to know if you suspect your horse has been bitten:
  
  1) do not panic and call your vet immediately
  
  2) if the snake is not poisonous, the reaction to the bacteria from a snake's mouth can be serious or if it is poisonous, the venom creates consequences that can be more severe. Try to establish where your horse has been bitten. Symptoms of a snake bit:
  
  - pupils will be fully enlarged and the whole eye appears black
  - breathing difficulties
  - swelling
  - lameness
  - pain
  - tissue damage
  
  3) keep the horse warm and comfortable while waiting for the vet
  
  4) if the horse is bitten on the leg, place a wide band (rag, bandanna, etc) above the bite to compress the veins but not the arteries. You should open and re-close the band every 15 minutes, this will slow down the spread of the poison while preventing damage to the tissues
  
  5) most commonly bites occur on the muzzle; whether taking a closer look at the new slithery inhabitant or just foraging for food, the horse's head will be down for an attack. The biggest danger with these bites is that the muzzle swells so much that it makes breathing difficult or impossible for the horse. You should have two 12" garden hoses to insert in each nostril of the horse to avoid suffocation. These hoses need to be lubricated before insertion and you need to have your vet show you how to do this BEFORE you have to! Keep them in your barn and a pair in your "first aid kit" for when traveling with your horse. See ... Horse First Aid - Evacuations. The hoses should be kept in an enclosed container keeping insects from taking up home inside them
  
  Note: If you are experienced with the knowledge and the how tos, Pat Coleby, suggests administering massive does of vitamin C (sodium ascorbate only) through injections. Inject 50 cc (25 grams) of vitamin C into the muscle on each side of the neck. Repeat this procedure in an hour, if the horse does not show signs of recovery. Usually, the veins collapse in shock after the bite, so do not try to inject intravenously. If necessary after the initial injection, you should be able to use a vein for the second injection. The snake type is immaterial using this method of treatment, which is not the case with antivenin. Also, antivenin is usually not administered to horses because of the cost. Rub sodium ascorbate powder well into the site of the bite as it nullifies the pain in minutes. Pat's suggestion can be applied to poisonous bites from snakes, spiders and ticks. Administer 1 tablespoon of sodium ascorbate daily in feed until the horse recovers. Actually, for the benefit of the horse's health, feeding sodium ascorbate daily should be implemented.
  
  Understanding that the best snake repellent is simply a good ole' clean up; removing the areas that are suitable habitats for them is what works. Tall grass brings crickets and other foods for snakes to ingest. Pastures not mowed are ideal living conditions for snakes enabling them to hide or move around for their next meal. Keep pastures and lawns mowed frequently. Overgrown shrubs, bushes and other vegetation lure in these reptiles, again to lie and wait for their next feast and by providing safe areas for them to travel from one location to another. Cut down all overgrown flora. Piles of just about anything, wood, rocks, debris, etc supply snakes with great cooling off places in the heat of the summer. Gaps of air pockets are amongst these areas and snakes will find them to hide, rest and escape the sun. Cleaning up these areas will eliminate some safe havens. Wood piles, compost piles and such should be well away from the barn and home.
  
  Lastly, eradicate small rodents. Snakes follow the food and when we see them slithering in or around the barn, in the garage, shed and such they are probably chasing their next meal. Value the fact that eliminating safe harbors and food sources for snakes are the only controls that work; therefore the best ones.
  

In addition to the Biters are the Stingers:

They attack vigorously in defense of their nests. They produce uncomfortable stings and can cause alarm to horses. An instant burning sensation from the sting develops into pain and inflammation at the site. Dramatic swelling can occur if stung around the eyes or muzzle.

These creatures are social; therefore, they live in groups. Check your property, especially the barn, sheds and trailers for a nest. Remove them yourself or call in the professionals if the task is too big. Stinging creatures lurk in the buttercup and clover blooms, so mow them regularly.

• Bees, Wasp, Yellow Jackets, Hornets and the Like  If you horse is bitten or stung, immediately remove any items that can be constricting i.e. halters, bridles and leg wraps because the affected area may swell

Wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets can be easily provoked. Most stings cause only mild discomfort, but some may result in severe allergic reactions that require immediate medical care and may cause death. Don’t leave litter or food where it may attract yellow jackets, hornets, or wasps. Wasps are predators of several bothersome insects, but no one wants to attract wasps to their property. If nests are sighted and relatively small, there are some natural over the counter products to purchase. Some nests can be enormous in size; call in the experts to deal with these nests.

Recipe for a Wasp Trap:

 

plastic bucket with a handle

1 ham-hock (or thick bacon slices)

sugar

water

twine

Rub sugar onto ham-hock or bacon.Wrap twine around meat and attach to bucket handle, allow meat to hang from handle. Fill bucket about 1/2" from bottom with water. Using additional twine, make a loop around handle and tie ends in a knot; keeping in mind how high or low your bucket will hang determines the length of twine. Use this loop to hang bucket from tree, post, etc. Wasps will become unable to fly from gorging on the pork fat. They will fall into the bucket of water and drown.   Caution: Keep trap away from people and animals.

• Fire ants live in the ground and can build massive nests creating detailed colonies. These areas are visible by the domes produced from excavating the soil as they continually rebuild their tunnels. They will defend their nests forcefully. Contact your local agricultural department to determine the best assault weapon for your situation

Recipes for Repelling the "Common Ant"

#1)
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

1 TBSP borax

Mix together and sprinkle in affected areas    

Caution: keep away from humans and animals

#2) 

Locate the ant hills and pour a kettle of boiling water down each of them 

#3) 

Take 1 tablespoon of Instant Grits and sprinkle it over each ant mound 

#4) 

For ants that are destroying your trees, plants and shrubs; wrap a piece of Duct Tape around the trunk of the tree or plant, sticky side out 

#5) 

Yeast Molasses Sugar Mix
1 part sugar, 1 part active yeast and 2 parts molasses

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Drop the mixture, 1 teaspoon at at time, onto small pieces of cardboard paper. Place the pieces of paper along ant trails or where the ant problem is obvious  

#6) 

Garlic Onion Pepper 1 quart water 

1 clove garlic 

1 small onion 

1 TBSP cayenne pepper 

1 TBSP liquid dish washing soap

In a bowl, mix first 4 ingredients together and  let the mixture set for about 1 hour. Then add the liquid dish washing soap. Put the concoction in a spray bottle and spray it around the house where you have ant problems 

#7) 

Sprinkle household table salt around window sills, baseboards, door thresholds, anywhere ants travel. Ants will not pass over the barrier of salt

 #8) 

Borax is an old favorite. Mix 20 Mule Team borax and sugar to make a trap or sprinkle the 20 mule team borax on the ant trail. They take the borax back to the nest and it kills them 
Caution: Avoid contact with pets and children
   

Basic Treatments: - 

Always consult your vet with issues you may have

For One Fly Bite:

1. Apply an ice pack (a pack of frozen vegetables works well) or bathe with cool, salt water 10 - 15 minutes. The mixture can be made in a plastic bowl. Mix one teaspoon of salt to two cups water and sponge on bite. Or,
2. Cleanse with hydrogen peroxide and let dry. Apply a zinc oxide cream
3. Salt and baking soda relieves both pain and itching. Mix together equal parts of baking soda and salt and enough water to create a thick paste. Apply it on the affected areas
4. Mix PABA with isopropyl alcohol and apply it directly to any bug bites; eliminates itching and reduces swelling
5. Squeeze the juice out of a honeysuckle vine bloom and rub the juice right on the bug bite
6. Calendula oil is an excellent insect repellant and soother
7. Just as mentioned above for tick bites, one can make the same dressing from sodium ascorbate for any bites your horse may receive. Remember to administer sodium ascorbate, 1 tablespoon daily in feed
8. Vitamin E can be rubbed directly on the bug/tick bite, after cleansing
9. After bite forms a scab, apply vitamin E cream or oil to promote healing and hair growth
10. Make the following remedy early in the summer:

Rue

Rosemary

Southern Wood

Wormwood

Fill a pint bottle 1/3 deep with equal parts of herbs above. Add 1 TBSP vinegar. Fill the bottle up, within 2" of rim, with oil*. Place in hot sun for 14 days. Shake before applying to bite.

* Oil options: sesame, corn, sunflower. This remedy is great for proud flesh too

For Multiple Fly Bites:

1. A mild horse shampoo can help to remove irritating scruff and/or bacteria and cool the inflamed skin. A topical anti-itch preparation such as colloidal oatmeal, calamine lotion or zinc oxide cream applied to affected areas will help. Try to do your best with applying solutions regularly to keep your horse from scratching and irritating the affected areas 
2. Any of the "One Fly Bite" remedies from above can be administered 

For Mosquito Bites:

1. Salt is a quick home remedy. Moisten the bite area with water or hydrogen peroxide and then rub table salt on the moistened area
2. Apple Cider Vinegar can relieve the itching by rubbing it on the mosquito bites
3. Dab toothpaste directly onto bite areas - peppermint flavored is the best
4. Calamine Lotion is a popular product that has been around for years. Available on drug store shelves or Wal-Mart
5. Ammonia is a very effective "itch eliminator". Apply on the bites - caution, do not inhale fumes
6. Witch-hazel makes a great relief for your horse's itches; just pour the witch hazel into a spray bottle and spray those bug bites and other “itchy” areas
7. Make a paste of  Witch-hazel and baking soda. Apply it to bite areas and leave it on for about 15 minutes. Wipe off
8. Aloe will eliminate the itch and heal the wound too. Grow your own aloe (a hot weathered climate plant - grow indoors if you live in cooler climates) and use the gel from the leaves, or you can buy a commercial aloe gel product. Check out the Dollar Tree, they carry it but it's a seasonal product
9. Cut whole limes in half and squeeze the juice on the bites. You can rub the lime on the bite and continue until the itch stops. Reduces the swelling and also works on spider bites!  

For Stings:

1. Wasp stings are alkaline by nature, therefore, they should be bathed with a dilute acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice
2. On the other hand, bee stings are acidic and should be bathed with bicarbonate of soda (baking soda). Make a baking soda poultice - see recipe below. If the bee leaves its stinger behind, remove it with tweezers, as venom will continue to enter the skin. If the stinger is below the surface, it should shed with normal skin healing - watch this!
3.  Meat tenderizer when moistened into a paste takes the sting out of bug bites and stinging nettles; neutralizes the poison in just a few minutes
4. Take freshly crushed parsley and rub it on the bee sting. This should stop the pain and at the same time, begin to neutralize the poison
5. Basil is one of the most effective bee sting remedies. Crush up fresh basil leaves and rub them directly on the bee sting
6. Make a paste out of St. John's wort oil and bentonite clay (available through Natural Food Stores) and apply it directly on the bee stings. The clay will help draw the poison right out of the bite and the St. John's wort will help eliminate some of the pain with it's anti-inflammatory properties
7. A quick acting bee sting remedy is lavender essential oil. Apply just 1 drop of the oil on the bee sting. This is a "spot treatment" only, do not apply over large areas of skin
8. Dirt mixed with a small amount of water to form mud; then apply it on the sting. This will pull out the stinger and keep the swelling down
9. After the bite scabs, apply vitamin E cream or oil to promote healing and hair growth
   
   
   Baking Soda Poultice

2 cups baking soda

water (warm or cold)

spoon for mixing

glass bowl for mixing

clean scrap material approximately 12" x 12" (old sock, t-shirt, rag, etc)

In a mixing bowl, add baking soda along with enough water to make a firm paste. This should have the consistency of bread dough; soft and moist, but not runny. Place mixture in center of scrap material. Tie up opposite ends of material to make a bundle. Apply poultice to affected area. The contents may drip, so have a clean rag handy for wipe ups, if necessary. After use, open bundle and place mixture in a container with an airtight lid for use again - just add more water. Rinse your scrap material thoroughly and let dry to be used again 

Bite and Sting Relief Recipes

Some general purpose sting reliefs for yellow flies, mosquito, chigger and jellyfish bites.

#1)

1 tsp. baking soda
1/3 cup ammonia
1/3 tsp. papain (meat tenderizer)
1 crushed aspirin

Mix thoroughly, label and store in refrigerator. When needed, shake well and apply with cotton swab to affected areas; rub briskly.

#2)

After Bite ANTI-ITCH SPRAY

8oz Spray Bottle
3 oz witch hazel
3oz aloe vera gel
30 drops tea tree oil
6 drops lavender (optional)

Fill the spray bottle with ingredients. If you add lavender, it will add a pleasant aroma to the mixture; this step is optional. Shake the bottle well and before each use.

This remedy can be used on dogs and humans as well as horses.


NOTE: It is rare for a bite to turn septic; if the area is open and weeping, bathe with a mild antiseptic solution - tea tree oil, grapefruit seed extract, lemon, vinegar, any alcohols, Listerine or its generic are a few. Consult your vet!  

 

Some Non-Biters and Non-Stingers, but still Pests

     Some pest do not bite or sting, but will still create unhealthy conditions for you and your horse just as well. Again, it is impossible to totally eliminate these opponents, but a constant approach to maintain proper sanitation on your property is essential for control.

• The mouse is just one of the many rodents that can invade your property. They multiply rapidly thus spreading like wildfire. Mice are very acrobatic and can leap straight up and practically climb any surface. To say the least, these rodents get around.
  
  Mice are nocturnal and have poor eyesight, relying on hearing, touch and smell to navigate in their environment. Spreading diseases, most notably salmonellosis (bacterial food poisoning) when food is contaminated through their parasites and feces. These challengers also cause severe damage to your property. Their nest-building activities generate extensive damage to insulation inside walls and attics. In addition, they gnaw through electrical wiring causing failure of appliances and fires. See...Fireproof Your Barn. Locate areas where damage is evident and place your weapon of defense. Mice usually do not venture more than 15 to 20' from their nest.

Recipes for Eco-friendly Mouse Deterrent

#1) 
1 tbsp Castile Peppermint Soap

1/2 tsp cayenne

8 cups water 

Mix together and pour in spray bottle. Spray baseboards. Pour unused mixture in an airtight container

#2) 
½ cup dish soap 

1 TBSP Tabasco 

1 gallon water 

Mix 1/2 cup of soap detergent with 1 tablespoon of Tabasco sauce in 1 gallon of water. Spray this natural mouse repellent around the property

#3)

Cedar Chip Bags

Netting cut into 9” squares
Cedar chips
50 drops Cedar chip oil

Place ¾ cup chips on square and bring all ends up and together – tie them off w/ a piece of twine 4” long. Add drops all around chips; place bags in areas throughout the barn. Replenish drops monthly.

• Roaches have been in existence for 295-354 million years and may be among the most primitive living winged insects. The modern day roach is somewhat different in appearance than its ancestors of the past, but it is still a dangerous contender. They can transport microbes on their body surfaces including those that are potentially dangerous.
  
  Disease-producing organisms such as bacteria, protozoa, and viruses have been found in cockroach bodies. Food poisoning, dysentery, diarrhea, etc. appear to be the principal diseases transmitted by the common cockroaches. These disease-causing organisms are carried on the legs and bodies of cockroaches and then deposited on food and utensils as roaches forage. In our homes and barns, they feed on human and pet food. They can leave an offensive odor behind especially when numerous inhabitants abound. Sometimes living outdoors, but preferring warm conditions and considered "cold intolerant," they are resilient enough to survive occasional freezing temperatures. This makes them difficult to eradicate once they have infested an ideal habitat.
  
  Usually found in dark, warm and moist areas of sinks, tubs, floor drains, pipe chases and sewers. Removing opened food, controlling moisture and harborages available to roaches is the first step in treatment. Keep areas clean and foods in sealed containers. Always pick up spilled foods and liquids. Some suggestions for controlling roaches without pesticides follow. Interestingly, the wasps and the house centipede are effective predators of the roach, but no one wants them around either.

 

Recipes for Eco-friendly Roach Sprays /Traps

#1)    

2 tsp tea tree oil

2 cups water

Mix in spray bottle and spray in affected areas

#2)

Roach Dough

1/4 cup shortening

1/2 cup onions

1/2 cup flour

8 ounces baking soda

Combine all ingredients and add enough water to bring it to a consistency of dough. Place on paper squares and introduce to the roach's path 

#3) 

* Boric acid - spread the dust (powder) in area where roaches enter 

#4) 
* Diatomaceous earth also known as Diatomite is most commonly used in lieu of boric acid and can be used to help control and eventually eliminate cockroach, flea and bed bug infestations - a three for one. This application of killing roaches, etc will take a considerable amount of time. Spread the dust (fine powder) in areas where the roaches enter; under appliances, garbage cans, etc. This material has wide application for insect control in grain storage

*Caution: Do not apply dust to wet or moist areas and apply lightly because heavy applications may repel roaches vs traveling over the dust and killing them. Do not place dusts where children or pets could come into contact with them. Take special care to keep children and pets away from areas treated with boric acid. Take precautions to assure that the dusts do not contaminate food

#5)

Vegas Roach Trap
6" tall pickle or jelly jar
4" plastic wine glass with a removable base
1/2 cup used wet coffee grounds

Fill jar with less than an inch of water, set aside. Fill wine glass with coffee grounds keeping line about 1 1/2" from rim. Remove base from wine glass. Tilt jar with one hand and with two fingers from the other hand; insert filled wine glass into jar. Whether inside or outside, tilt jar against wall. It may be necessary to wedge a rock or the like underneath the jar for stability 

Note: Make sure the inserted plastic wine glass tilts away from the wall while the jar tilts towards the wall. A short glass tumbler may be substituted for the plastic wine glass; however, slightly more difficult to keep it tilted correctly inside the jar 

#6)

Put bay leaves in your cupboard to repel roaches - good for repelling moths too

Related Links to Pest Control: 

"Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"   

"Horse Pest Control" 

"Herbs for My Horses, The Gardens" 

"Herbs for My Horses, Their Uses."

"Herbs for My Horses, Their Names"

Tips From the Trail:

Have a Barn Cat or Dog? 

Don't Overlook them in your Pest Management Plans. These guys and gals get attacked by many insects too. Here is a flea control pillow you can make to help them with these annoying pests:

2 parts pennyroyal

1 part thyme

1 part wormwood

Construct a pillow for your pet. For those who do not sew, you can reuse old zippered pillow case covers or revamp a used pet bed you may have. Thrift stores are great for purchasing items such as these. Insert herbs cut or whole into zippered case/bed.

A drop of pennyroyal essential oil on your pets collar can help repel fleas - use ONLY one drop. You can also add a few drops of pennyroyal oil to water in a spray bottle. Spray around areas where your pets sleep - avoid food

Go Green Tips:

• the growing of elder bushes and pine tress have great uses and are natural deterrent plantings for insects. Take caution with plants / trees, they may be poisonous
• buy or make natural fly sprays without pesticides
   

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com  

If you want a stable friendship, get a horse.  

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