A GREEN HORSE is a NATURAL, ECONOMICAL and ECO-FRIENDLY WAY to a HEALTHY HORSE: Horse Pest Control

Horse Pest Control - Part B

Okay, in dealing with a recent wasp sting on Tsar, I realized I did not mention these robust creatures and other “pesky” tidbits of information on stingers and biters, in the previous blog Horse Pest Control. This omitted a stockpile of information, so get ready for another in-depth blog below. Tsar is my sensitive horse, all the way around; physically (medically speaking), mentally and emotionally. His skin is affected even by the smallest of annoyances. For him, all it takes is one bite and the ramifications are usually something that I need to contend with.

Any sting or bite can cause an allergic reaction and the "pests" that cause this harm, at a minimum, create displeasure and irritation. Reaction to an attack on your horse should be handled with proper attention along with methods to repel future ones. Applying repellants usually requires multiple applications daily to be effective; this undertaking can be very hard to accomplish. So, remember the best “prevention” is to maintain the highest of standards for cleanliness on your property and to be observant!

Insects Attack Horses in Different Ways; Some Information on these Adversaries:

Nuisance flies eat secretions in and around the horse’s eye, mouth, nose and other sensitive spots. The house fly and face fly are the opponents. They do not bite but are still parasitic on the animals because they feed on discharges; such as secretions found around the eyes and nose. Activity around the hosts' eyes allows face flies to be potential vectors of eye diseases, such as pinkeye. Sticky fly papers or ribbons are effective at eliminating a few flies in relatively confined areas, but are not effective enough to manage heavy infestations or to provide control in an outdoor setting

Biting flies can pierce the horse’s skin and extract its blood - They are:

Midges (Biting Gnats - No See Ums) (Cullicides) are very small and hover in swarms at dawn and dusk. They lay their eggs in standing water, so avoid stagnant areas. They hover over manure piles, so spread piles in pastures periodically and remove piles in and around barn. A mixture of 50 parts water to 50 parts bath oil can be made up into a spray bottle and applied several times a day to prevent flies landing on horses

Black flies (Simullidae) breed in rapidly moving water and commonly feed around the face, particularly in the ears, on the neck and underside. These bites may trigger an allergic reaction from their saliva. Bites form as painful lumps, often with pinprick areas of bleeding and crusting. Species which feed in the ears of horses can be controlled using petroleum jelly in the interior of the horses' ears or let the hair grown in the horse's ears just as nature intended

Stable flies lay eggs in moist, rotting vegetation – mostly hay or silage that is contaminated with urine, water or manure. Peaks of feeding activity commonly occur during the early morning and again in the late afternoon. These flies like to feed on horses’ legs and abdomens. Bites typically appear as itchy or painful wheals or papules with a central crust. Again, proper hygiene on your property should always be applied

Bot Flies or Gadflies are large flies that buzz around livestock laying their eggs on the hairs of their host in the summer. During grooming, the horse will swallow the eggs and then the eggs will hatch inside the body. The tiny larvae then burrows through the soft tissue in the horse's intestinal tract. Eventually the larvae appear as large maggots in the stomach of a horse during the winter months. In extreme cases, rupture of the host's stomach wall can occur and death can follow

- Remove bot fly eggs with a disposable plastic safety razor

Horn Flies usually are a pest of cattle, but if your horse grazes near cattle these challengers will attack horses. Horn flies have spear-like piercing mouthparts protruding from under their heads which allow them to feed on the blood of their host. Most of the time, the horn fly remains on its animal host day and night. Usually, they attack the shoulders, back and sides of the cattle/horse. Horn flies will move to the belly during hot and rainy weather. Female horn flies lay their eggs in fresh cattle manure

Deer Flies and Horse flies belong to the fly family Tabanidae. These pests seem to cause the most pain and alarm to the horses. Female horse and deer flies are vicious, painful biters. They are able to penetrate the skin in a scissor-like manner; inflicting deep wounds that cause a flow of blood. They feed on the blood of cattle, horses, dogs, deer and other warmblooded animals. Their habitat is woody plants and wet areas; ponds, marshes and ditches. Tabanids lie in wait in shady areas under bushes and trees for a host to happen by. Sight is the main host finding mechanism, but carbon dioxide and odor also play a role. Moving objects, especially if dark colored, are most prone to attack. Attacks occur during daylight hours with a peak beginning at sunrise and lasting about three hours. A second peak is two hours before sunset and commences shortly after. They are most active on warm, sultry days, especially around woodlands. Attack frequency is lower on overcast days or at temperatures below 71 and above 89º F.

The bites appear as painful papules (pimples) and wheals (small lumps) with a characteristic central ulcer. Tsar was bitten by a horsefly on his chest and the bite swelled to the size of a dime and became crusty with secretion. Horse flies/ deer flies rarely venture into dark areas, so stabling during peak attack times can offer some protection to your horse. There are no true means for controlling insect invasions, but proper sanitation on your property will help manage their populations. Most tools do not work in reducing raids, but there are a few available. Traps can be effective in controlling small areas. A common trap shown to have success has a spherical, black and shiny ball. The flies are attracted to these objects as the wind moves them. Some are built with netting over the ball allowing flies to arrive, but preventing them from flying away.

A variation to this trapping method is called the “sticky black ball” trap. Basically it is a beach ball painted black and coated with a sticky substance called Tangle-Trap. This product comes in a spray or liquid applicator and is available at Ace Hardware stores.

This device is hung from a tree limb using string, in a shaded area, about 4 feet above the ground. Movement of the ball by the wind attracts the flies. Flies land on the device, get stuck, and die on the ball. Several of these balls will reduce the local adult populations. Milk jugs can be used instead of a ball; remember to paint it black. Jugs are easier to hang.

Spiders are intruders and set up home were ever they choose. They will run and hide or simply hang there depending on the situation; they can be sneaky and will do what it takes to stay around.The majority of spiders are not poisonous and gratefully, the fangs of most are too weak to penetrate the thick skin of a horse. If a horse is bitten, the affected area can be a large swollen bump causing localized irritation and itch. Spider bites are more frequent in autumn when they move indoors for the winter. The spider has a few favorite habitats; woodpiles outdoors and indoors the undisturbed areas such as corners and behind objects on shelving.

As unwanted arrivals inside, eviction is the only way to remove them. Clean out all undisturbed areas inside barns or any sheltered area to remove nests. A great evict-or is a wet/dry vac; consider getting one for your barn. Be careful and wear protective clothing when necessary. A cat is a great defense on spiders. Ours will chase one down, trap it in their paws and continue with various torments until it lies still forever. It is a good idea to shake your hay flakes before letting the horses dive in.

Mosquitoes have mouths that are adapted for piercing the skin of plants and animals. They annoy livestock and can cause weight loss, reduced milk production, and poor reproduction. Adults often rest in weeds, tall grass or other vegetation but these areas are not their reproduction sites. The females seek out suitable pools to deposit eggs. They are strong fliers and can travel long distances from their breeding spots; however, they usually go only far enough to seize blood from a host.

The females do not feed on the blood of warmblooded bodies i.e. horses and humans, but collect it for the protein; enabling egg development. Mosquitoes are therefore vectors for a number of infectious diseases affecting millions. Mosquitoes transmit several diseases in horses and they can be fatal. Most vets recommend vaccinations against diseases; although vaccinations cannot guarantee disease prevention in all circumstances, but they help minimize the risk of infection and aid in the prevention of certain diseases. Not all diseases have a vaccine and inoculations are only one component of prevention in an effective management program. Reducing breeding grounds on your property is another factor one needs to avert insect population.

Ideal territories are marsh lands, woodland pools, swamps and other wetland habitats. Of course, these natural environments are beyond an individual's control, but knowing their locations in your surroundings, horses should be sheltered away from these areas. If nothing else, stall your horse during peak flying times. Stagnant water is a prime mosquito environment for reproduction and the part you can play to mange them on their property. Don’t let water collect around your home/barn, in ditches, gutters, containers, or pools.

Mosquito Born Diseases in Horses:

- Western (WEE), Eastern (EEE) and Venezuelan (VEE) Equine Encephalitis
- West Nile Virus (WNV)
- Equine Infectious Anemia (Swamp fever)

Recipes for Eco-friendly Mosquito Repellents

#1)

Thoroughly rub pure vanilla extract in circular motions onto a few areas of your horse. An excellent repellent, it overwhelms mosquito sensory organs but, produces a pleasant smell that both you and your horse will enjoy

#2)
Lemon Balm or a yarrow tea can be misted on to horses to help repel mosquitoes - safe for children too

#3)
2 ounces witch hazel extract*
60 drops citronella essential oil

For a 5% dilution - Put witch hazel into a lotion or spray bottle; add 60 drops of citronella essential oil. Shake well before each use. For a 10 % dilution - add 120 drops of citronella.

* Note: Olive oil, rubbing alcohol or vodka can be used in place of the witch hazel

#4)
Mosquito Repellent Oil

2 ounces distilled water
2 ounces olive oil
120 drops citronella essential oil

A lotion is an emulsification of water and oil. To prepare: Put water into a deep mixing bowl. Begin to drizzle in the oil slowly and beat vigorously with a wire whisk. By the time all the oil is added you should have a nice creamy white lotion. Stir in the citronella oil. Pour into a lotion bottle.

#5)
Mosquito Herbal Repellent Oil

1/4 cup fresh pennyroyal
1/4 cup fresh thyme
1/8 cup fresh basil
1/8 cup neem leaf (if available)
tea tree essential oil
citronella essential oil
1 cup olive oil

If possible, pick your fresh herbs. Remove any dirt and place them in a sunny place until the herbs are wilted. Place first 4 herbs into a crock pot. Pour in olive oil - this should cover the herbs plus another inch of oil above them. Turn crock pot on low temperature and heat mixture for about 3 hours. *

When mixture is finished heating, strain your oil through a cheesecloth lined strainer. Squeeze out as much oil as possible. Pour strained mixture into a glass measuring cup to measure how much oil liquid you have. For each ounce of oil, use the following formula to add citronella and tree tea oil to the mixture - 10 drops of citronella essential oil and 5 drops of tea tree oil
Pour into a squirt bottle

*Instead of using a crock pot to prepare your lotion, place all ingredients in a clear glass jar and set it in the sun for about five days. Shake it once or twice a day. Strain and pour into a squirt bottle

#6)
2 oz oil (almond or olive)
2 oz citrus oil
2 tsp vanilla extract

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake

#7)
Goldenseal is a great natural insect repellant

Lice, Mites and Ticks There are two types of lice; biting and sucking lice and both parasitize horses. Biting lice feed on shed skin or scurf and on secretions from the skin where as sucking lice feed on blood. Both types of lice reproduce throughout the year. However, these pests are most common during the winter months.

Several types of mites cause skin conditions, collectively called mange. These mites are very difficult to see without magnification. The general symptoms of mange include areas of cracked, dry skin and formation of scabs. Their activity is extremely irritating to its host and the results are scratching, rubbing and licking at infested areas. Secondary infections of the infested areas are possible.

Ticks are a hardy life form and Mother Nature has provided us with a wide variety, suited to a wide range of climatic conditions. Several species of ticks may occasionally become pests on horses. After attaching to its host and gorging on blood, a tick will inflate to about 1/2 inch long. Unfed ticks are flat and hard. Populations may cause anemia and with heavy infestations, death of the animal from excessive blood loss can occur. The two most common diseases horses can contract via ticks are Lyme disease and piroplasmosis (piro).

The tick population can be kept to a minimum by maintaining fields and paddocks in a closely mowed state while horses should be kept out of wooded or overgrown areas. Usually ticks are abundant on sick, low-pH soil. Have soils tested and topdressed with the required lime minerals if your property falls prey. The primary sites of tick infestation on the horse are the ears, mane, tail, and under the tail, around the anus and vulva. The life-cycle of a tick is 2 - 3 years. So, when removing ticks do not fling them onto the ground.

- The "hammer" method is very effective for the demise of ticks or dropping them into a container of water is just as successful because ticks are poor swimmers

- Tea Tree Oil is great for removing and killing ticks

- Vicks Vapor Rub - a glob on for 5 minutes and the tick wipes right off

- any type of alcohol applied to the tick will remove it

Lice and mites spread from horse to horse by direct contact or by the use of common grooming tools and tack. Do not share tools and tack amongst horses! Good grooming and adequate nutrition are essential to maintain the health of the horse. So, groom frequently for it plays an important role in the early detection of lice, mites and ticks.

- Sponging areas where nits are attached with warm water (110 to 112 F) may stimulate some eggs to hatch and the small larvae can then be washed off. This has to be repeated frequently because new eggs are attached daily. This treatment is most effective if it is used on a cool day

Tick Born Diseases in Horses:

-Equine Ehrlichiosis

-Equine Piroplasmosis -Colorado Tick Fever

-Tularemia Spotted Fever

-Tick Payalysis

-Equine Granulocytic Anaplasmosis

-Heartwater

Recipes for Eco-friendly Tick Repellents

#1)
Mix 10 parts witch hazel and 1 part lemon eucalyptus oil in a spray bottle. Spray your pet - safe for people too

#2)
1 cup Avon Skin-So-Soft
1 cup water
1 TBSP lemon eucalyptus oil
2-3 TBSP apple cider vinegar

Add ingredients in to a spray bottle

#3)
10 drops of rose geranium oil
15 drops tea tree essential oil
15 drops lavender essential oil
10 drops cedarwood essential oil
10 drops lemon eucalyptus oil
4 oz. Distilled or filtered water

Mix ingredients into a spray bottle

Note: To treat a tick bite, make sure the tick has been removed and apply the following dressing.

Make the dressing from a piece of cloth or a feminine pad. Smear it with petroleum jelly or something similar; creating the same size as the affected area to be treated. Sprinkle the petroleum with sodium ascorbate and cover well. Apply to bite and reapply until it clears up. Vitamin E oil can then be used on the area to encourage hair growth. Administer sodium ascorbate, 1 tablespoon daily in feed while treating. This treatment works for any bite from an insect.

Recipe for Removing Lice:

#1)
10 drops of tea tree essential oil*
4 TBSP oil (vegetable or olive oil)
spatula
1 cup distilled vinegar
1 cup warm water
mixing bowl
shampoo

Mix ingredients into a spray bottle. Spray the infested hair - coat well, with the mixture and leave on for 2 or 3 hours. After waiting, dip a fine tooth comb into a mixture of warm water and vinegar. Using only one stroke, comb out the dead lice. Rinse the comb after every stroke in the vinegar solution - repeat as necessary. Then wash the hair with a regular shampoo to remove the oil

*Note: tea tree oil can be replaced with citronella oil, rosemary oil or lavender oil

Snakes probably raise the most hairs of all the "pest" that could be around the farm. Physically freezing in place with my soul jumping out about 10 feet or even panicking to the extent of running the other way with my heart in my throat. These reactions usually result in wasted energy for the snake does not want to see me either and hurriedly slips away. On my behalf, my husband plays exterminator grabbing for the shovel and cutting ... - well you get the picture. I know I have to reconsider this permanent decision; as long as the snake is not venomous maybe a trip to the woods is more appropriate. I do not like the thought of any snakes around and the resolution on what to do will be pondered upon for quite some time. In the meantime, preventative measures are our number one weapon and learning some facts about them was essential in carrying this out.

There are many types of snakes and they are found in most countries of the world. They are practically everywhere and probably a few are lurking in the yard right now. Knowing the poisonous ones in your area can only be beneficial. Numerous sites on the web are available for this information. Again, not liking any snakes I am biased against them and my reactions to them are a bit extreme. For the most part, and quite frankly for the best; horses are not effected this way when a snake is present. Maybe a slight head lift with a quick glance as one slithers by or possibly never looking away from the forage in front of his eyes as he continues to graze are their most likely responses. Your horses will probably encounter a snake in their pasture roaming for forage and the potential of one of these slithering reptiles biting them is possible.

Whether venomous or not, most snakes have teeth and are capable of biting. It is believed snakes have a conscious choice whether to bite the victim or not and if poisonous to inject venom when biting. Snakes are not attackers unless they are scared, provoked, defending a nest or themselves. More likely than not, snakes bite horses to warn them off and because of a grown horse's size, they have a good chance of survival if bitten. A few things to know if you suspect your horse has been bitten:

1) do not panic and call your vet immediately

2) if the snake is not poisonous, the reaction to the bacteria from a snake's mouth can be serious or if it is poisonous, the venom creates consequences that can be more severe. Try to establish where your horse has been bitten. Symptoms of a snake bit:

- pupils will be fully enlarged and the whole eye appears black
- breathing difficulties
- swelling
- lameness
- pain
- tissue damage

3) keep the horse warm and comfortable while waiting for the vet

4) if the horse is bitten on the leg, place a wide band (rag, bandanna, etc) above the bite to compress the veins but not the arteries. You should open and re-close the band every 15 minutes, this will slow down the spread of the poison while preventing damage to the tissues

5) most commonly bites occur on the muzzle; whether taking a closer look at the new slithery inhabitant or just foraging for food, the horse's head will be down for an attack. The biggest danger with these bites is that the muzzle swells so much that it makes breathing difficult or impossible for the horse. You should have two 12" garden hoses to insert in each nostril of the horse to avoid suffocation. These hoses need to be lubricated before insertion and you need to have your vet show you how to do this BEFORE you have to! Keep them in your barn and a pair in your "first aid kit" for when traveling with your horse. See ... Horse First Aid - Evacuations. The hoses should be kept in an enclosed container keeping insects from taking up home inside them

Note: If you are experienced with the knowledge and the how tos, Pat Coleby, suggests administering massive does of vitamin C (sodium ascorbate only) through injections. Inject 50 cc (25 grams) of vitamin C into the muscle on each side of the neck. Repeat this procedure in an hour, if the horse does not show signs of recovery. Usually, the veins collapse in shock after the bite, so do not try to inject intravenously. If necessary after the initial injection, you should be able to use a vein for the second injection. The snake type is immaterial using this method of treatment, which is not the case with antivenin. Also, antivenin is usually not administered to horses because of the cost. Rub sodium ascorbate powder well into the site of the bite as it nullifies the pain in minutes. Pat's suggestion can be applied to poisonous bites from snakes, spiders and ticks. Administer 1 tablespoon of sodium ascorbate daily in feed until the horse recovers. Actually, for the benefit of the horse's health, feeding sodium ascorbate daily should be implemented.

Understanding that the best snake repellent is simply a good ole' clean up; removing the areas that are suitable habitats for them is what works. Tall grass brings crickets and other foods for snakes to ingest. Pastures not mowed are ideal living conditions for snakes enabling them to hide or move around for their next meal. Keep pastures and lawns mowed frequently. Overgrown shrubs, bushes and other vegetation lure in these reptiles, again to lie and wait for their next feast and by providing safe areas for them to travel from one location to another. Cut down all overgrown flora. Piles of just about anything, wood, rocks, debris, etc supply snakes with great cooling off places in the heat of the summer. Gaps of air pockets are amongst these areas and snakes will find them to hide, rest and escape the sun. Cleaning up these areas will eliminate some safe havens. Wood piles, compost piles and such should be well away from the barn and home.

Lastly, eradicate small rodents. Snakes follow the food and when we see them slithering in or around the barn, in the garage, shed and such they are probably chasing their next meal. Value the fact that eliminating safe harbors and food sources for snakes are the only controls that work; therefore the best ones.

In addition to the Biters are the Stingers:

They attack vigorously in defense of their nests. They produce uncomfortable stings and can cause alarm to horses. An instant burning sensation from the sting develops into pain and inflammation at the site. Dramatic swelling can occur if stung around the eyes or muzzle.

These creatures are social; therefore, they live in groups. Check your property, especially the barn, sheds and trailers for a nest. Remove them yourself or call in the professionals if the task is too big. Stinging creatures lurk in the buttercup and clover blooms, so mow them regularly.

Bees, Wasp, Yellow Jackets, Hornets and the Like If you horse is bitten or stung, immediately remove any items that can be constricting i.e. halters, bridles and leg wraps because the affected area may swell

Wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets can be easily provoked. Most stings cause only mild discomfort, but some may result in severe allergic reactions that require immediate medical care and may cause death. Don’t leave litter or food where it may attract yellow jackets, hornets, or wasps. Wasps are predators of several bothersome insects, but no one wants to attract wasps to their property. If nests are sighted and relatively small, there are some natural over the counter products to purchase. Some nests can be enormous in size; call in the experts to deal with these nests.

Recipe for a Wasp Trap:

plastic bucket with a handle

1 ham-hock (or thick bacon slices)

sugar

water

twine

Rub sugar onto ham-hock or bacon.Wrap twine around meat and attach to bucket handle, allow meat to hang from handle. Fill bucket about 1/2" from bottom with water. Using additional twine, make a loop around handle and tie ends in a knot; keeping in mind how high or low your bucket will hang determines the length of twine. Use this loop to hang bucket from tree, post, etc. Wasps will become unable to fly from gorging on the pork fat. They will fall into the bucket of water and drown. Caution: Keep trap away from people and animals.

Fire ants live in the ground and can build massive nests creating detailed colonies. These areas are visible by the domes produced from excavating the soil as they continually rebuild their tunnels. They will defend their nests forcefully. Contact your local agricultural department to determine the best assault weapon for your situation

Recipes for Repelling the "Common Ant"

#1)
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

1 TBSP borax

Mix together and sprinkle in affected areas

Caution: keep away from humans and animals

#2)

Locate the ant hills and pour a kettle of boiling water down each of them

#3)

Take 1 tablespoon of Instant Grits and sprinkle it over each ant mound

#4)

For ants that are destroying your trees, plants and shrubs; wrap a piece of Duct Tape around the trunk of the tree or plant, sticky side out

#5)

Yeast Molasses Sugar Mix
1 part sugar, 1 part active yeast and 2 parts molasses

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Drop the mixture, 1 teaspoon at at time, onto small pieces of cardboard paper. Place the pieces of paper along ant trails or where the ant problem is obvious

#6)

Garlic Onion Pepper 1 quart water

1 clove garlic

1 small onion

1 TBSP cayenne pepper

1 TBSP liquid dish washing soap

In a bowl, mix first 4 ingredients together and let the mixture set for about 1 hour. Then add the liquid dish washing soap. Put the concoction in a spray bottle and spray it around the house where you have ant problems

#7)

Sprinkle household table salt around window sills, baseboards, door thresholds, anywhere ants travel. Ants will not pass over the barrier of salt

#8)

Borax is an old favorite. Mix 20 Mule Team borax and sugar to make a trap or sprinkle the 20 mule team borax on the ant trail. They take the borax back to the nest and it kills them
Caution: Avoid contact with pets and children

Basic Treatments: -

Always consult your vet with issues you may have

For One Fly Bite:

Apply an ice pack (a pack of frozen vegetables works well) or bathe with cool, salt water 10 - 15 minutes. The mixture can be made in a plastic bowl. Mix one teaspoon of salt to two cups water and sponge on bite. Or,

Cleanse with hydrogen peroxide and let dry. Apply a zinc oxide cream

Salt and baking soda relieves both pain and itching. Mix together equal parts of baking soda and salt and enough water to create a thick paste. Apply it on the affected areas

Mix PABA with isopropyl alcohol and apply it directly to any bug bites; eliminates itching and reduces swelling

Squeeze the juice out of a honeysuckle vine bloom and rub the juice right on the bug bite

Calendula oil is an excellent insect repellant and soother

Just as mentioned above for tick bites, one can make the same dressing from sodium ascorbate for any bites your horse may receive. Remember to administer sodium ascorbate, 1 tablespoon daily in feed

Vitamin E can be rubbed directly on the bug/tick bite, after cleansing

After bite forms a scab, apply vitamin E cream or oil to promote healing and hair growth

Make the following remedy early in the summer:

Rue

Rosemary

Southern Wood

Wormwood

Fill a pint bottle 1/3 deep with equal parts of herbs above. Add 1 TBSP vinegar. Fill the bottle up, within 2" of rim, with oil*. Place in hot sun for 14 days. Shake before applying to bite.

* Oil options: sesame, corn, sunflower. This remedy is great for proud flesh too

For Multiple Fly Bites:

A mild horse shampoo can help to remove irritating scruff and/or bacteria and cool the inflamed skin. A topical anti-itch preparation such as colloidal oatmeal, calamine lotion or zinc oxide cream applied to affected areas will help. Try to do your best with applying solutions regularly to keep your horse from scratching and irritating the affected areas
Any of the "One Fly Bite" remedies from above can be administered

For Mosquito Bites:

Salt is a quick home remedy. Moisten the bite area with water or hydrogen peroxide and then rub table salt on the moistened area

Apple Cider Vinegar can relieve the itching by rubbing it on the mosquito bites

Dab toothpaste directly onto bite areas - peppermint flavored is the best

Calamine Lotion is a popular product that has been around for years. Available on drug store shelves or Wal-Mart

Ammonia is a very effective "itch eliminator". Apply on the bites - caution, do not inhale fumes

Witch-hazel makes a great relief for your horse's itches; just pour the witch hazel into a spray bottle and spray those bug bites and other “itchy” areas

Make a paste of Witch-hazel and baking soda. Apply it to bite areas and leave it on for about 15 minutes. Wipe off

Aloe will eliminate the itch and heal the wound too. Grow your own aloe (a hot weathered climate plant - grow indoors if you live in cooler climates) and use the gel from the leaves, or you can buy a commercial aloe gel product. Check out the Dollar Tree, they carry it but it's a seasonal product

Cut whole limes in half and squeeze the juice on the bites. You can rub the lime on the bite and continue until the itch stops. Reduces the swelling and also works on spider bites!

For Stings:

Wasp stings are alkaline by nature, therefore, they should be bathed with a dilute acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice

On the other hand, bee stings are acidic and should be bathed with bicarbonate of soda (baking soda). Make a baking soda poultice - see recipe below. If the bee leaves its stinger behind, remove it with tweezers, as venom will continue to enter the skin. If the stinger is below the surface, it should shed with normal skin healing - watch this!

Meat tenderizer when moistened into a paste takes the sting out of bug bites and stinging nettles; neutralizes the poison in just a few minutes

Take freshly crushed parsley and rub it on the bee sting. This should stop the pain and at the same time, begin to neutralize the poison

Basil is one of the most effective bee sting remedies. Crush up fresh basil leaves and rub them directly on the bee sting

Make a paste out of St. John's wort oil and bentonite clay (available through Natural Food Stores) and apply it directly on the bee stings. The clay will help draw the poison right out of the bite and the St. John's wort will help eliminate some of the pain with it's anti-inflammatory properties

A quick acting bee sting remedy is lavender essential oil. Apply just 1 drop of the oil on the bee sting. This is a "spot treatment" only, do not apply over large areas of skin

Dirt mixed with a small amount of water to form mud; then apply it on the sting. This will pull out the stinger and keep the swelling down

After the bite scabs, apply vitamin E cream or oil to promote healing and hair growth

Baking Soda Poultice

2 cups baking soda

water (warm or cold)

spoon for mixing

glass bowl for mixing

clean scrap material approximately 12" x 12" (old sock, t-shirt, rag, etc)

In a mixing bowl, add baking soda along with enough water to make a firm paste. This should have the consistency of bread dough; soft and moist, but not runny. Place mixture in center of scrap material. Tie up opposite ends of material to make a bundle. Apply poultice to affected area. The contents may drip, so have a clean rag handy for wipe ups, if necessary. After use, open bundle and place mixture in a container with an airtight lid for use again - just add more water. Rinse your scrap material thoroughly and let dry to be used again

Bite and Sting Relief Recipes

Some general purpose sting reliefs for yellow flies, mosquito, chigger and jellyfish bites.

#1)

1 tsp. baking soda
1/3 cup ammonia
1/3 tsp. papain (meat tenderizer)
1 crushed aspirin

Mix thoroughly, label and store in refrigerator. When needed, shake well and apply with cotton swab to affected areas; rub briskly.

#2)

After Bite ANTI-ITCH SPRAY

8oz Spray Bottle
3 oz witch hazel
3oz aloe vera gel
30 drops tea tree oil
6 drops lavender (optional)

Fill the spray bottle with ingredients. If you add lavender, it will add a pleasant aroma to the mixture; this step is optional. Shake the bottle well and before each use.

This remedy can be used on dogs and humans as well as horses.

NOTE: It is rare for a bite to turn septic; if the area is open and weeping, bathe with a mild antiseptic solution - tea tree oil, grapefruit seed extract, lemon, vinegar, any alcohols, Listerine or its generic are a few. Consult your vet!

Some Non-Biters and Non-Stingers, but still Pests

Some pest do not bite or sting, but will still create unhealthy conditions for you and your horse just as well. Again, it is impossible to totally eliminate these opponents, but a constant approach to maintain proper sanitation on your property is essential for control.

The mouse is just one of the many rodents that can invade your property. They multiply rapidly thus spreading like wildfire. Mice are very acrobatic and can leap straight up and practically climb any surface. To say the least, these rodents get around.

Mice are nocturnal and have poor eyesight, relying on hearing, touch and smell to navigate in their environment. Spreading diseases, most notably salmonellosis (bacterial food poisoning) when food is contaminated through their parasites and feces. These challengers also cause severe damage to your property. Their nest-building activities generate extensive damage to insulation inside walls and attics. In addition, they gnaw through electrical wiring causing failure of appliances and fires. See...Fireproof Your Barn. Locate areas where damage is evident and place your weapon of defense. Mice usually do not venture more than 15 to 20' from their nest.

Recipes for Eco-friendly Mouse Deterrent

#1)
1 tbsp Castile Peppermint Soap

1/2 tsp cayenne

8 cups water

Mix together and pour in spray bottle. Spray baseboards. Pour unused mixture in an airtight container

#2)
½ cup dish soap

1 TBSP Tabasco

1 gallon water

Mix 1/2 cup of soap detergent with 1 tablespoon of Tabasco sauce in 1 gallon of water. Spray this natural mouse repellent around the property

#3)

Cedar Chip Bags

Netting cut into 9” squares
Cedar chips
50 drops Cedar chip oil

Place ¾ cup chips on square and bring all ends up and together – tie them off w/ a piece of twine 4” long. Add drops all around chips; place bags in areas throughout the barn. Replenish drops monthly.

Roaches have been in existence for 295-354 million years and may be among the most primitive living winged insects. The modern day roach is somewhat different in appearance than its ancestors of the past, but it is still a dangerous contender. They can transport microbes on their body surfaces including those that are potentially dangerous.

Disease-producing organisms such as bacteria, protozoa, and viruses have been found in cockroach bodies. Food poisoning, dysentery, diarrhea, etc. appear to be the principal diseases transmitted by the common cockroaches. These disease-causing organisms are carried on the legs and bodies of cockroaches and then deposited on food and utensils as roaches forage. In our homes and barns, they feed on human and pet food. They can leave an offensive odor behind especially when numerous inhabitants abound. Sometimes living outdoors, but preferring warm conditions and considered "cold intolerant," they are resilient enough to survive occasional freezing temperatures. This makes them difficult to eradicate once they have infested an ideal habitat.

Usually found in dark, warm and moist areas of sinks, tubs, floor drains, pipe chases and sewers. Removing opened food, controlling moisture and harborages available to roaches is the first step in treatment. Keep areas clean and foods in sealed containers. Always pick up spilled foods and liquids. Some suggestions for controlling roaches without pesticides follow. Interestingly, the wasps and the house centipede are effective predators of the roach, but no one wants them around either.

Recipes for Eco-friendly Roach Sprays /Traps

#1)

2 tsp tea tree oil

2 cups water

Mix in spray bottle and spray in affected areas

#2)

Roach Dough

1/4 cup shortening

1/2 cup onions

1/2 cup flour

8 ounces baking soda

Combine all ingredients and add enough water to bring it to a consistency of dough. Place on paper squares and introduce to the roach's path

#3)

* Boric acid - spread the dust (powder) in area where roaches enter

#4)
* Diatomaceous earth also known as Diatomite is most commonly used in lieu of boric acid and can be used to help control and eventually eliminate cockroach, flea and bed bug infestations - a three for one. This application of killing roaches, etc will take a considerable amount of time. Spread the dust (fine powder) in areas where the roaches enter; under appliances, garbage cans, etc. This material has wide application for insect control in grain storage

*Caution: Do not apply dust to wet or moist areas and apply lightly because heavy applications may repel roaches vs traveling over the dust and killing them. Do not place dusts where children or pets could come into contact with them. Take special care to keep children and pets away from areas treated with boric acid. Take precautions to assure that the dusts do not contaminate food

#5)

Vegas Roach Trap
6" tall pickle or jelly jar
4" plastic wine glass with a removable base
1/2 cup used wet coffee grounds

Fill jar with less than an inch of water, set aside. Fill wine glass with coffee grounds keeping line about 1 1/2" from rim. Remove base from wine glass. Tilt jar with one hand and with two fingers from the other hand; insert filled wine glass into jar. Whether inside or outside, tilt jar against wall. It may be necessary to wedge a rock or the like underneath the jar for stability

Note: Make sure the inserted plastic wine glass tilts away from the wall while the jar tilts towards the wall. A short glass tumbler may be substituted for the plastic wine glass; however, slightly more difficult to keep it tilted correctly inside the jar

#6)

Put bay leaves in your cupboard to repel roaches - good for repelling moths too