Winterize Your Horse, Barn, Yard and Equipment

Prepare Your Horse, Barn, Yard and Equipment for Winter

The cold season is ahead. Even though while I am writing today, the temperature outside is 73◦ appearing springlike, the season change is inevitable and the time to prepare is now. Some of winter’s conditions will offer a pleasing beauty to gaze upon, but to deal with unexpected issues in inclement weather is never gratifying. Fall is the time to arrange your schedule for the necessary preparations because … an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

     Most equestrians reduce or perhaps even eliminate their horse’s activity level in the winter season, but daily attention is still required to ensure that all is well. Caring for your horse is certainly a challenge and your continuous commitment is tested even more in the frigid climate of winter. Nevertheless, we ask so much of them and so willingly do they give and in comparison, they ask so little in return… we are truly indebted. Maintaining a proper management program to achieve a healthy horse is a responsibility to uphold year round. Anything worth having takes time, so contribute to them responsibly and you will find endless rewarding benefits no matter what season.

Provide the Five Freedoms for Your Horse:

Freedom from hunger and thirst…
Freedom from discomfort…
Freedom form pain, injury or disease…
Freedom to express normal behavior…
Freedom from fear and distress…

The Five Freedoms are discussed in their entirety in previous blog... “Horse Bathing”

Winterize Your Horse

     Nature provides horses adequately for winter weather conditions when in their “natural” state. Capable of taking measures to manage nature’s cold climate situations; horses will forage for appropriate food, seek out open water to drink, generate warmth by herding together and find sufficient shelter. However, when man intervenes and limits their abilities, horses become very dependent upon their holders to supply these and other necessities.

Nutrition

      Winterizing your horse by making him able to adapt to and be comfortable with whatever nature presents requires proper preparation, by you. Appropriate nutrition and water supply is vital for your horse year round, but these components can be limiting during the winter season causing stress and compromised health. Your horse needs to be healthy prior to this coming season enabling him to endure. A great physical condition allows the advantage he will need to weather the extreme circumstances. Proper nutrition management and clean fluid water will help to provide this advantage.

     An apt nutritional program will aid in maintaining your horse’s normal body temperature, thus keeping him warm. In the winter, forage is the fuel that keeps a horse warm. The horse’s body generates more heat from the fermentation process in the hind gut because of eating forage (hay and pasture). In winter, when the pastures go dormant and offer very little nutritional value, a supply of high quality hay is crucial. On average for a mature horse in light exercise, he will need about 1.5% - 3% of his body weight per day of high quality roughage (air-dry feed). With that said, a ration of 2% or about 24 pounds of all combined air-dry feed (grain and hay) is fed to each of my 1200-pound horses, per day. In a winter’s day, since each horse receives 6 pounds of grain; they will need to consume about 18 pounds of additional well-cured grass hay. While hay preferences vary, always ensure the hay is clean and mold-free. Feeding the horse off the ground or at a position below his head aids in proper nasal and lung drainage. This is a natural eating position and lessens the incidence of respiratory problems. Monitor the local weather predictions and increase the amount of hay intake two to three days in advance of extreme conditions to aid your horse in keeping his normal body temperature.

     If you supply grain to the diet, continue with portions during the winter months. Usually there is a reduction in your horse’s activity level in the winter, which means a reduced need for calories; however, they will require additional calories to generate body heat maintaining normal body temperature during cold spells. If his activity is decreased drastically and he does not need the calories to sustain weight, feed more hay and less grain. A good guide to follow; substitute 2 pounds of hay for every pound of grain reduced in his daily ration to enable the horse to maintain energy and to stay warm. In summer, a horse consumes lush green pasture and in winter the changes to his diet usually occur with additional hay and or grain. Take great care when adapting such diet changes. Fresh green grass acts like a laxative while grass hay may have an opposite effect. Health risks can increase in the aftermath of diet changes, colic being one. A less intrusive feeding program is to continue feeding hay throughout the year. Supply smaller portions of hay in summer, spring and fall, when pastures are prosperous eliminating abrupt changes in diet.

     Watch your horse's body condition and make certain he is not losing weight. With a winter coat, it may be impossible to see visually his body condition, so run your fingers down his side and along spine to the croup area feeling for bony protrusions. If you can barely feel the outline of horse's ribs under slight hand pressure and no significant protrusion of his backbone, he is maintaining an adequate weight. This hands-on inspection also affords the opportunity to check your horse for injuries otherwise hidden from view by a long winter coat. Perform this practice weekly and for a more accurate assessment, every month achieve a weight measurement by scale or tape. If he is losing weight, an increase of grain intake may be necessary.

     Paying close attention to your horse’s nutritional needs and making adjustments before body conditions begin to decline is fundamental in management, especially in cold weather. Concentrate on their energy (calorie) requirements. A body score of 5.5 to 7.0 is ideal for your horse to live outside with a 3- sided shelter open to the south, in the winter. He will develop a winter coat and will not need to consume more calories until the temperature falls below 15◦F. His metabolic rate will increase by about 35% to stay warm, when temperatures fall below 15◦F. A natural reaction of the body to combat the cold is shivering, which is the rapid contraction and relaxation of the muscles to create heat. Shivering is evidence of poor nutritional management and should be avoided. The additional energy consumed by shivering may eventually compromise the horse's ability to maintain crucial core temperature. Horses require additional calories to generate body heat during cold spells.

     Horses obtain calories from proteins, fats and carbohydrates. If the ideal body condition is not maintainable by feeding your horse daily the average 2% of his body weight with hay and grain, increasing the amount of forage (hay) is the starting point to supply more calories for your horse. The benefits of calories will maintain an ideal body condition and deliver adequate heat generated during the fermentation of fiber in the hind gut. If the ideal body condition is still not attainable, the next step is to increase his grain consumption per day. A general guide is to increase quantities by ¼ measures each week until the body condition begins to improve and then maintain that amount throughout the winter months. In addition, for every 3◦F below 15◦F, your horse will need 3% more digestible energy or calories. Depending on the amount of calories in your grain mix, this on average amounts to an additional 1/3 to 1/2 pounds of grain, per day. If your horse still needs more calories, then add calories from fat. Fat contains three times the calories found in oats and four times the calories found in average grass hay, so add sparingly. Always, pay attention to those weather forecasts to adjust feed when necessary.

     Vitamins and minerals are part of proper nutritional management for your horse. Make certain the daily-required allowance is maintained along with an accessible supply of salt (a high quality source is Himalayan rock salt). It is important to know your horse’s requirements. A guideline would be to stockpile enough hay and grain to last at least two weeks, and preferably longer for those emergency conditions that may arise during the unpredictable weather of winter.

     So many variables determine a proper feeding program for an individual horse from weather to age. Most importantly, know your horse, watch his body condition, talk with your veterinarian and be versatile.

Water

     Water is essential for sustaining life and your horse must have free access daily. An average horse requires from 5 -10 gallons per day which needs to be clean and ice-free. Less availability from cold or frozen sources and with a diet consisting mainly of hay reduces the consumption level during cooler temperatures. Hay has a water content of only 10% while pasture contains nearly 80%. The myth that horses will eat snow is a falsehood with dire consequential results. Some probably do lick it occasionally, but they would need to consume six times the amount to produce an equal amount of water. Do not rely on snow or ice to supply their water requirements. It is central to ensure your horse consumes an adequate amount of water to remain healthy.

     Some health risks are likely if the horse’s water intake is reduced. Consuming cold substances lowers body heat, which is contradictory to the necessary outcome of providing warmth for the horse in winter. Drinking cold water during winter months will burn up additional calories to warm tissues back from the heat loss, therefore they instinctively drink less. Besides, cold water is not palatable to a horse and maintaining temperatures between 45◦F - 65◦F will encourage him to drink more generously. In addition, with a larger ingestion of hay during the winter, water consumption encouragement is required to keep the foods flushing through the digestive tract; considering the reverse, lower water consumption may result in a higher risk of colic impaction. Promote water consumption by maintaining water temperatures, adding electrolytes (natural Blackstrap molasses) to grain or water and provide access to salt. Provide all the necessities to keep your horse well hydrated, warm and healthy.

Tips from the Trail:

Scrub your water buckets and troughs clean in the last days of fall, before the arriving cold days of winter. Comet is a great cleaner for these procedures – no suds. Other cleaning Tips See... "Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"

Buckets

Rubber buckets cost more but make it easier to knock out the frozen water as opposed to the plastic buckets that may shatter. The additional expense of rubber may be justifiable by eliminating the purchase of more plastic buckets.

Use insulated bucket holders.

Carry tepid water in buckets from the house or barn to your horse.

Top off frozen buckets with extremely hot water, but stand guard to prevent horse from drinking until it melts frozen ice and cools down to appropriate drinking temperatures.

Troughs

Have troughs under a three-sided shelter.

Install water heaters or an automatic heated water bowl, both are sound investments. Plug into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) extension cord to prevent shock, or directly into a ground fault indicator receptacle. Use according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Insulate around the trough with bales of straw, sand bags or even field stones. This can aid in keeping water ice free and lessen the amount of electricity used from heaters in keeping the water warm.

Allow a football to float in trough. Its movement can minimize water freeze except of course in case of an extreme frost. A ball big enough so horse cannot get in his mouth.

Add vinegar to troughs reducing algae growth.

Hoof Care

     Moisture, moisture, moisture… is so prevalent in the winter season making hoof care an indispensable part of preventing trouble. Snow, water, mud, or mucky stalls are the ingredients necessary for making your horse susceptible to that “dirty” word…thrush. Keep stalls clean and dry and use good absorbent bedding. There are a number of great permeable bedding products on the market today. Additionally, continue the daily practice of cleaning your horse’s feet. Keeping both stalls and feet dry and clean will greatly reduce the risk of thrush. Other threats pending in winter conditions can include abscesses forming by a hoof’s impact against frozen ground. Abscesses usually develop in early spring and can be attributed to undiagnosed bruising that started in winter.

     Hoof growth will often slow in winter, but carry on with your farrier to provide scheduled trims for keeping proper shape and avoiding any unnatural wear. If your horse is shod, removing them in winter permits the hoof wall to thicken and the sole the ability to harden. Constant shoe wear also contributes to contracted heels; if possible, winter is a good time to remove shoes and allow hooves to rest. If shoes remain in winter due to riding preferences or for a preexisting condition, it is possible for snow to accumulate between the shoe and the sole creating a ball (snowball). This will make walking unbalanced, difficult or even tendon and joint strain. Eliminate the buildup by having your farrier apply a snowball pad; this is a plastic pad with a ball in the center preventing snow and ice from building around the shoe. Another option is to clean out the hooves and apply petroleum jelly or Crisco all-vegetable shortening to the soles with a hoof brush. Repeat this process as long as there is snow cover on the ground. Maintaining good nutrition and routine care are beneficial in preserving quality hooves.

More Hoof Care Tips from the Trail - See...“Horse Bathing”

Exercise

     Want a workout in winter? Go work or ride your horse; it is healthy. Both may appreciate the scenery change and departure of normality; plus it may furnish entertainment from all the pent-up of winter days. There are measures to consider guaranteeing a healthy pleasurable experience for you and the horse. “Light” is the answer. Use caution, go slow and eliminate any strenuous activity creating labored breathing and/or profuse sweating. Permanent damage or even potential death are possibilities under excessive conditions in the cold. Damage to the lungs may result from the rapid and deep inhalation of freezing air. Chilling will occur from sweating in cold weather causing serious situations, so cover yourself with adequate clothing and blanket your horse’s croup. This will keep his muscles from getting cold and producing spasms from the exercise. Do not over exert. Cool your horse out making sure he is completely dry after your sessions. Never put your horse out in the cold with any apparent wetness…again, he must be completely dry! Go light, do not over exert you or your hose and enjoy the season with time spent together.

Medical

Take this time to check and restock your first aid kits, both human and horse. Stock up on extra pharmaceuticals should your veterinarian be unable to reach you.

It is essential for your horse to chew/grind his food obtaining all the energy he needs, especially since energy needs increase during the colder months. Have your horse’s teeth checked annually either in wintertime or springtime. Have this performed by an equine dentist.

A regular parasite control program should be established for your horse. If you use a commercial program, plan to de-worm after the first heavy frost. Use one that kills bot larvae. Consult with your veterinarian for a program suitable for your location and horse.

For a natural parasite control program, adequate copper and sulfur levels must be maintained in your horse’s system. Parasites internal and external will not stay with a horse if these levels are sufficient. Regular daily feedings of these minerals is the source also provide garlic which contains natural sulfur and sometimes reduces the incidences of interior parasites. It should not entirely take the place of a balanced diet with the correct amounts of copper and sulfur. Eventually, I will devote a blog to this topic.

Winterize the Barn/Shelter

     Nature has provided horses the ability to survive extreme weather conditions through freedoms to grow protective coverings, herd together and to roam thousands of acres to seek shelter and nutrition. The domestic horse is not afforded these freedoms and relies on the horse owner to provide these sufficient necessities. Horses properly managed by their holders providing standard care can overcome the cold, wind, rain or snow. It is when these conditions come in any combination or are extreme that make necessary the need of extra aid and protection for your horse.

     Most domestic horses are contained on a small fraction of the acreage compared to their natural counterparts. The amount of natural shelter on this acreage is probably zero to none, and is one of the necessities the horse owner needs to provide. A barn with adequate room in a stall or a 3-sided run-in shed preferably facing south allowing full heat from the sun needs to be available to the horse. Here he can escape the elements of extreme weather. Whether a run in or a barn, new or old, simple or elaborate the requirement of adequacy, security, safety and basic comfort for your horse should be foremost in your maintenance practices. The preservation of the structure requires endless duties, but it is possible to reduce those daunting tasks with a scheduled program. So, get out the pencil and paper or better yet print this list out and go complete those items that need your attention while the weather is still on your side. In a few weeks, whether it is our horse or our family, we all will want to feel warm and cozy.

     Your goal is to eliminate drafts, while at the same time provide proper ventilation, an airtight barn leads to health issues. Good air quality must be maintained.

Shelter

Clean Facility Completely
Strip stalls, check mats for repairs and replenish bedding (extra bedding in winter)
Watch for ammonia build up – use baking soda/vinegar/Woody Pet – clean out regularly
Determine bedding requirements and have enough for several weeks on hand
Remove cobwebs
Sweep entire area
Properly store tools and any other detrimental items away from horse traffic
For extra traction on barn tools, wrap the handles of pitchforks, brooms, rakes, etc. with vet wrap for gloved hands in the winter and for summer, it cuts down on acquiring calluses.

Check and Repair

Roof for leaks
Insulate attic areas and pipes coming into the facility
Install a hydrant that is self-draining or a shut off valve below the frost line
Drain pipes/hoses/buckets after each use
Caulk around windows, doors, etc. – fill cracks
Weather-stripping around doors
Keep areas under doorways dry and clean preventing slips/freezing shut
Cover the inside of windows with plastic in heated areas
Check feed bins/hay racks for looseness
Check buckets for cracks and sharp edges – replace if necessary
Loose boards or protruding nails in barns/stalls/run-ins
Check fire extinguishers/detectors
Preform Fire/Evacuation drills
Test heating elements in automatic waters
Check the cores in heated buckets and tank heaters
Implement a rodent control program – they seem to like the warmth inside too - barn cats do great work – have them spayed or neutered

Consider barn dogs and cats. Create warm sleeping areas for those who winter in the barn. Boxes, travel crates, etc work well for them with added bedding or old blankets for cozy comfort. In addition, when stockpiling winter emergency supplies think about their needs too.

Blankets

      During the seasonal changes from fall to winter, avoid blanketing the horse so he may develop a thick coat and acclimate to the dropping temperatures. As the season continues to change, use caution with blankets. If your horse has adjusted correctly to the dropping temperatures, blankets are usually not necessary for a healthy horse provided he has shelter from the wind, rain, snow, etc. However, use common sense when blanketing. If the weather conditions are extreme; below freezing, windy, raining or snowing hard and your horse is outside, a well-fitting waterproof wind-resistant blanket is best. While on your horse, monitor for placement, dryness and cleanliness. Blankets may slip causing rubbing and sores. Broken hairs are an indication of chaffing. Wet blankets will do more harm than good causing chill not warmth and dirty ones could cause fungal infections. If the weather changes to sunny and or temperatures rise, removal is usually necessary.

Hang up blankets to air, examine for needed repairs, and check fasteners and straps.

Tips from the Trail:

Looping small elastic bands around the blanket fasteners helps prevent an accidental undo

Dental floss is great for blanket repairs. Sew up those rips with the floss. This is not waterproof so stick duct tape on top of sewn area. The floss will hold the rips better than duct tape alone. In addition, if the duct tape does not stick because the adhesive is cold - sew the duct tape on with the floss.

Use iron on waterproof patches for blanket rips

Suspenders make great replacement leg straps

Convert an old sleeping bag into a warm quilted stable rug for the winter by removing the zipper and cut out a semi-circular section at one end for the neck and shoulders. Stitch around the edges, adding a colored binding. Use wide strips of Velcro for breast straps, belly straps and sew in place.

Adding reflective tape on your horse’s blankets will make it much easier to find him in a field in the dark.

Measure for a Proper Fitting Blanket:

Using a long tape measure (approximately 80” long), start at the front center of the chest (A) and carry it around the widest part of the shoulder. Continue down the barrel, along the flank around to the center back of the tail (B). Usually blankets come in even whole sizes, so if the measurement is an odd number or fraction, go up to the next even whole number for the best fit.

NOTE:
The best solution for keeping a horse warm during cold weather is to buy the best quality hay opposed to the best quality blanket.

Winterize the Yard/Equipment

Yard

Repair fences and posts
Service heaters and well pumps
Insulate well house and apply heat tape/insulate where needed
Check pipes/spouts and faucets – insulate and check heat tape is working properly
Cut back large branches/bushes close to shelter in the event of an ice storm
Pick up obstacles, poles, jumps or anything that may be hazardous if hidden by snowfall
Fill holes in front of gates, doors, etc. where snow may cover or water may freeze
Give your pastures a boost – fall is a good time for mineralization of your pastures – contact your local agricultural department for recommendations

Equipment

Inspect hydraulic, fuel and electrical systems on tractors

Lube engine with a lighter-weight winter oil
Check anti-freeze and determine if a full replacement is necessary
Diesel tractors will need a fuel additive for those below zero temperatures
Keep tractor full of fuel

Check batteries in vehicles
Examine the ignition system
Install snow tires/all season radials
Keep a set of chains in vehicle
Check the brakes
Check the exhaust system – leaks vent carbon monoxide to the inside
Check heater
Check defroster
Check windshield wipers – fill with winter-grade washer fluid
Keep vehicle full of fuel

Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.

With all the preparations, you have gained the comfort knowing your horse is ready to weather the season. 
Go enjoy it with your horse!

Go Green Tips:

• plain Crest toothpaste is great to polish silver. Dab on a cloth and polish away
• distilled vinegar or some say kerosene on heavy corrosion works for rusty tools (hoof nippers, fence tools, pliers, etc.) Overnight, soak them in a bucket of vinegar or kerosene to remove rust. Extreme rust may need to be soaked longer
  

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

Let us ride together, blowing mane and hair, careless of the weather, miles ahead of care, ring of hoof and snaffle, swing of waist and hip, trotting down the twisted road with the world let slip. 
Anonymous

Horse Bathing

Okay everyone, I know my last blog was lengthy, hopefully not looked upon as protracting but informative. I will go a little lighter for this one - ah, only just a bit. I understand most like short and sweet subject matters on the internet, but my writings seem to always be the opposite. This is my third and last blog of the “Grooming” series; then off to relaxing a bit and collecting thoughts for the next posts of winter topics.

    What is a Well- Maintained Horse? 

     ... one that portrays a healthy mental, physical and emotional reflection of the magnificent creature we call horse. These aspects are illustrated honorably through gallant strength, noble loyalty and majestic beauty. This vision represents the essential qualities of a truly vigorous and beautiful horse. They are achieved by the horse owner's countless exertions in delivering the responsibilities required through internal and external efforts. An appropriate management program, encouragement of a horse's natural behaviors along with a good partner relationship accomplishes a "well-maintained" horse. First, a good management program covers a wide range of practices in supplying your horse; from a suitable facility to the necessities needed to remain healthy. Second, a proper environment produced by the horse owner that supports the horse's natural behaviors thus allowing him the liberties to be a horse. And lastly, the two together, horse and human build a relationship through trust and respect. The last one goes hand and hand with the first two so, while you constantly continue with the first two, the third will always be evolving. Proper ethical conditions and treatments contribute greatly to the creation of a well-maintained horse.

     One gratifying journey for me is to polish all these efforts in a way that can be expressed through my horses. A worthy grooming/bathing system offers many benefits for both horse and human. This practice offers  another way for us to learn and understand each other; more time together to construct our future. In the majority of attitudes I have seen, horse caretakers view their horse through a filter of their own desires, rather than the “well being” of the species. The horse itself must be considered in order to ever possibly reach the absolute well-maintained horse. Harmonize the management and freedom of your horse. Learn to fulfill the intricacies he requires as an individual horse, and enable yourself to acquire the ability to teach him functional patterns to produce your desires from him. In doing so, you will create the best horse you can imagine - a partner who is stable, well-mannered, co-operative, and affectionate, with an open, communicative personality that is curious and quick to learn. Through knowledge, you act, and through understanding, you teach. These skills reflect the power to balance the different worlds of horse and human. Once you achieve and maintain the internal necessaries of mind, body and soul of your horse, you can polish it externally and your horse will portray its harmonious health through an outward shine of beauty.

     When channeled in the right direction, a horse's power provides great service and great pleasure. Mismanagement of this power is not only costly, but can be instead a source of great harm, injury and death. For both human and horse to have a safe and healthy relationship, it is extremely important to stay focused on establishing a serious bond. Building this relationship requires responsibilities for both partners. The horse needs to learn how to be familiar with your actions and to understand what his contribution to the relationship will be. You need to think safety and exercise caution whenever you interact with a horse and learn your horse's behaviors.

     Understanding horse behavior is a step towards connecting the different world they live in with ours. We choose to be a part of their world and if you consider their needs properly, they may be more inclined to be a part of yours.  I realized early on that the horse must be treated with respect in order to achieve my goals. It is not just about me, but both of us. Through my studies, I ran across an organization, White Horse Equine Ethology Project (W.H.E.E.P.), this organization emphasizes the importance of ethical treatment to the species. Through years of experiments, they arrived at freedoms the species must acquire, from man, in order to remain "healthy" mentally, physically and emotionally. We should graciously provide these five fundamental freedoms to a horse since we choose to interject ourselves into their lives. In addition, we should have an informed, educated and humane philosophy that truly serves as a guide every horseman should use in attaining an ethical partnership and a well-maintained horse.

THE FIVE FREEDOMS

Freedom from hunger and thirst by allowing access to fresh water and a complete diet to maintain a healthy vigorous horse

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Freedom from discomfort by providing the appropriate surroundings including a safe and secure environment, adequate shelter and a comfortable resting area

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Freedom form pain, injury or disease by prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment

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Freedom to express normal behavior by providing ample liberty, the proper facilities and company of the animal's own kind

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Freedom from fear and distress by ensuring conditions and treatment, which avoid mental, physical and emotional suffering

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The attitude expressed in the 5 freedoms provides doors to entering the world of the horse. 
Open them and your journeys will be endless roads filled with intrigue and gratification, for 
both you and your horse. Bathing can be used as one avenue to build the relationship.

Basic Bathing

This blog pertains to those who know their horse will accept bathing. If your horse has not been prepared, do not attempt this task without a skilled person or until you receive further knowledge and training.

Basic Bathing

Fall is here and the change in weather will not permit an extensive bath described in this blog unless of course, your climate is different or you have a climate-controlled facility. I am just now getting this posted and hopefully the information will assist someone now or possibly in the warmer days that always lie ahead. Just a tip to remember, washing your horse with shampoos not only removes the dirt but, the natural oils too. Therefore, limit the frequency of bathing to allow the beneficial oils to remain. Sometimes time may not warrant a complete bath. Below are some fleeting remedies for these instances and a few approaches to other related situations.

Preparation:

Prepare supplies in advance for the bath. Be sure to pick a warm day and use warm water. Consider your clothing, you will get wet!

There are a few approaches one may choose to bath a horse. Options like with or without a bucket, sponge, rag, etc., are up to individual, there is no rule. Decide the best method where you and your horse are most comfortable.

If necessary, tie your horse securely and safely in an area that will not get muddy. Think about the movements you and your horse could make on slippery ground and use precautions that would prevent either of you from falling. As I have mentioned before, I am not a fan of cross tying. This practice can be dangerous, so be careful you use it.

Shampooing / Conditioning:

     Use a gentle shampoo/conditioner or one that suits your horse’s particular needs. For homemade shampoo recipes/remedies - See blog...  "Grooming Tools/Supplies - A Road Traveled ”. Depending on the situation, it may be necessary to periodically wash your horse with a mixture of iodine scrub and water (2 parts iodine scrub: 1 part water). Tsar is susceptible to insect bites and this remedy helps in the prevention of an infection. When I use this treatment, the iodine mixture remains on him for about 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing. I have various shampoo recipes/remedies that are available if needed. They are all labeled and stored in reused 128oz cranberry juice containers. Two ounce pumps are affixed to each container and can be transferred easily into a squeeze bottle (reused dish soap bottle or condiment container) as needed. This system applies to the conditioners, oils, and other treatments as well. Note: To conserve your shampoos, conditioners, etc, spray bottles can be used in place of squeeze bottles.

     Groom your horse before the bath. This removes the heavy soil and any debris making the bath less laborious. Pay attention to your horse’s body language throughout the process. Learn to understand his language when he attempts to communicate so that you can perceive the situation correctly. Take your time and teach him to be well-mannered. With empathy and repetition, your horse will understand how to be respectful, even if becomes necessary to correct his behavior.

    Preparing for the bath, an adjustable spray nozzle on the end of the hose with a shut off control is a personal preference. Controlling the shut off of the water as well as the pressure amount is both economical and Eco-friendly. Consider the pressure of the water making it comfortable to the horse’s skin. Use warm water, let your horse see the hose and smell and or mouth it, if necessary - of course not to the point where he controls it. If this is an issue, one can try reversing the psychology and give the horse what it wants. With energy (a bit more than what the horse is exerting) push the hose in its mouth and move it around. You will find that your horse is no longer interested and will refrain from his attempts to dominate the hose. Now, back to bathing, stand facing your horse’s shoulder area, spray the ground at your horse’s feet allowing him to acquaint himself with what is about to happen. Slowly and gently, proceed to apply water to his front feet. Let him adjust to this action and the water temperature. Continue up his front leg, shoulder and neck, down the back, include the belly then to the dock. Proceed down his hind leg to his hoof. Continue pattern on the other side. Now, stand facing the horse’s hip area, cautiously saturate the tail and lift tail to spray the anal area and the areas below.

     Once the horse is completely wet, squeeze shampoo into your palm, onto your horse, sponge or into a bucket, etc. whichever you prefer. Using circular motions, scrub your horse starting at the neck and include the mane and crown. Pay particular attention to the crown, down the spine to the dock area. Continue applying shampoo when needed and proceed to the belly and legs, covering the entire body. A good massage with my hands and fingers at this stage is in store for my horses. Sometimes I will bring out the people back-scratcher, giving them a nice round of scratching. They both love their scratches! Now, on to the tail, and by this time, another hosing will be necessary to saturate. Squeeze the shampoo directly onto the tail or submerge the tail into a sudsy bucket – you will need help for that one! Scrub the tail good with your fingers, like one would do to their own scalp/hair and include the entire tailbone. Gently, wash the anal area and one can continue with areas below.

     You will need to clean the teats if you have a mare and clean the sheath if you have a gelding. These areas need cleaning regularly. Geldings and stallions build up grime called smegma inside the sheath, which can cause discomfort and infection. For a gelding, a minimum of once a year but twice is considered best. If it is not something you are comfortable doing yourself, enlist your veterinarian to clean your horse’s sheath during his or her annual visit. For a mare, it may be necessary to clean more often. Make it a regular part of your bathing routine or clean more often if your mare/gelding is particularly prone to collecting dirt. Stallions will require more frequent cleaning. Addressing these procedures will be future topics.

Depending on how dirty the horse, a second application of shampoo may be necessary.

Repeat these steps when using a conditioner on your horse after shampooing.

Tips from the Trail:

Do not let areas dry out on your horse until you finish washing him entirely. Keep your horse moist by applying more water, use a light spray adjustment on the nozzle.

Wet down, shampoo, scrub and rinse one side of your horse at a time. Then repeat on other side.

Most horses do not like to have water squirted at their face. A more comfortable approach to washing the face; a bucket filled with clean soapy* warm water and a rag, sponge, etc. Using the applicator of your choice, dip it in the bucket and wring out. Gently wipe the face around the eyes, then inside the ears, mouth and nostrils. Now, rinse these areas with the applicator using fresh clean warm water.
* go sparingly with the shampoo

Rinsing:

 When rinsing your horse use warm water from the hose, wet him down thoroughly starting at the neck, and follow his body down the back, shoulders to tail and down the legs. Leave no shampoo/ conditioner residue; if left in it may cause the hair to dry out, resulting in a dull looking coat and or irritation.

Wow you are almost done!

Tip: This is a good time to rub off the dead cells of your horse’s chestnuts and ergots with your fingernails. See ...“Horse Grooming - Behaviors”

With a sweat scraper or your hand, scrape away the excess water on your horse. Pay particular attention to under the belly, all the water collects there. Dry him with clean rags and or take to a sunny spot (weather permitting) and the two of you can just mosey until the horse dries.

Tip: Do not put him out wet; he will probably roll.

It is time to brush him out entirely from head to hoof and step back and look at your successful trip! 

Recipes / Remedies:

1)
Use baby wipes for cleaning faces to teats. They are cheaper than the wipes that are made specifically for horse grooming and they work just as well.

2)
Instead of buying expensive horse shampoos, just use a mild dish soap or mild human hair shampoo. Any kid’s no tear shampoo works great since it is mild and does not sting when it gets in eyes.

3)
Give your horse a "Dry Bath". Fill your bucket with very warm water and add 3 drops of baby oil. Place rag in water and squeeze out excess; rub horse down. Then dry your horse with a clean dry rag. A lot of dirt will be removed and the horse will look clean and shiny. The horse smells like baby oil and they love the rub down. Note: Groom first.

4)
For a non-drying better than show-sheen shine, fill a small bucket with warm water, a splash of apple cider vinegar and a light squeeze of baby oil. Use a washrag and wring it out real well, then rub over the horse until they are gleaming. The vinegar cuts the baby oil just enough so that the horse is not greasy. The coat will shine! Note: Groom first.

5)
For scurfy coats, Treat with a Blend of Rosemary:

- Add approximately ½ pint of water to 1 tablespoonful of dried rosemary
- Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 minutes
- Remove from the heat and keeping covered, leave for 5 to 6 hours or overnight
- Strain off the rosemary and use the liquid as a rinse after shampooing

Can be used on mane and tail 

Variation:

Mix above blend with a little castor oil which stimulates long and supple hair growth. Apply as a rinse after shampooing, message well, then rinse. 

Can be used on mane and tail

6)
Remove scruff by rubbing area(s) with a cloth soaked in witch hazel

For White Legs:

7)
Get socks gleaming white with a mixture of Dawn dish soap, Liquid Bluing and a tablespoon of bleach. Mix in warm water in a small bucket, and paint on with a sponge. Rinse out. Note: Clean one leg at a time.

8)
Another great leg whitener: blue stone (copper of sulfate). This gravel actually has a blue tone. Put some in a bucket, add about an equal amount of water and then apply the water to the legs, enough to coat the white area so the legs look blue. Let it sit for a little while and hose off. Legs will be white. Note: Clean one leg at a time.

9)
For white legs that are bathed often, dissolve half a bar of Castile soap in hot water and scrub away. The soap cleans and whitens the legs and has natural conditioners so that it does not dry out the skin.

10)
Pat cornstarch with a sponge onto wet, thoroughly shampooed and rinsed white legs. When dry, brush off and it will leave the legs sparkling white. It can be used on other white markings, but most horses will not like it on their faces. The cornstarch seems to repel dirt and stable stains too.

11)
Use baking soda and vinegar for small dirt stains. Make a paste of baking soda and a little bit of water and rub it into the stain. Let set and then pour vinegar over it. Foams the stains right out. Rinse and wipe off with a rag.


For Yellow Tails:

12)
Pour white vinegar in a bucket, swish the tail around in it and rinse out after 5-10 minutes. This procedure may need repeating.

13)
Laundry bluing diluted in a bucket of water will help tails get white, be careful not to leave it on too long or you will have a baby blue tail.

14)
Fanci-Full White Minx, found near the hair dye section, will whiten a tail.

15)
For a bad case of “dirty tail”, use hydrogen peroxide. Spray or pour it on the clean tail, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then rinse. May require a few times to get tail truly white, but be sure to THOROUGHLY condition the tail afterward.

For more recipes See... 
" Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies"
  "Horse Grooming - Behaviors”

Liniments:

Homemade liniments are applied with friction; that is, a liniment is always rubbed in. Liniments are especially useful in hot weather to help a horse cool down: the alcohols added to the acting substances helps them to evaporate quickly, and the oil contents will cause the capillaries in the skin to dilate. Many horse owners apply liniments to the legs as a brace and then wrap over it. In this case, they should be sure that the liniment is not too strong or it may cause blistering of the skin. Liniments may be used on the legs and body, but should not be applied to more sensitive areas such as the head, dock, or groin of the horse. The body may also be too sensitive to apply liniments especially if the horse was recently body-clipped. Liniments can be a great relief for sore muscles.

1)
Wintergreen rubbing alcohol is a great leg brace.

Homemade Liniments:

2)
Tea Rinse -
Boil a quart of water with 4-8 tea bags and produce a tea concentrate. Dilute in a bucket with water and vinegar or alcohol. Sponge away. Sometimes I do a quick rinse but most of the time I just sponge it on after hosing the horses off. The alcohol will cool the horse off.

3)
Cucumber Wash* -
Slice 2-3 large cucumbers in a bucket with water. Allow sitting for about an hour and then sponge it on horse. Do not wring the sponge in the bucket but instead just take out the cucumber slices, rinse them off and give it to the horses as treats while sponging them off. My horses love to eat cucumber. Vegetables are healthy and make wonderful treats for your horses. See...Treat with Respect.

*This vegetable has a very high water, silicon, and sodium content, which helps soothe and cool externally as well as an aid in toning and firming the skin, drawing excess water from the tissue reducing puffiness. Internally, fresh cucumber is a source of vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, also providing dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate (folic acid), pantothenic acid (a B complex vitamin that is essential for growth), magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese - wow!.

For a cool weather after ride "wash" - mix up a little of your favorite liniment and water in a spray bottle and spray it on, scrape it off, cover horse with a cooler.

     I wanted to bring up an area of concern. Some people ride and or work their horses until they are infused with sweat. Then they spray them down afterwards with cold water. Medical complications could result if human marathon runners engaged in this practice, so why do it to the horse. This is not a good habit to form, especially when the horse is hot and the water cold. This will close the horse’s pores too quickly and may cause a mild case of "Azorturia" (similarities to a very bad case of tying up or founder) which is very painful and can be fatal. It is caused by a concentration of lactic acid in the tissues. The best remedy for cooling down an overheated horse is to walk him around. If you should then choose to hose him down, use only warm water after he has completely cooled off. Start hosing the legs first, then proceed to the chest, neck, withers and shoulders. Finish with the hindquarters and the area over the kidneys.

Once the bath is complete, step back and look at your success!

Go Green Tips:

• economical solution to make your shampoo/conditioner last longer and more convenient too; empty shampoo into a 128oz reused container. Buy a 2oz pump and insert into container.
• reuse onions bags to air dry sponges. Get a long piece of baler's twine and loop it in and out a top line of openings in the bag (same concept as the original tie at top of bag when purchased). To keep twine in place; knot each end of twine by knotting one strand to the opening thread of the bag - repeat on other side. Cut each side of twine to the length desired. Tie knots at opposite ends of twine. Use these threads to hang bag. 
• Set outside all clipped, trimmed and shedded hair from your animals, and include yours too. The insect-eating birds love to build their nests with it.

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

The horse is God's gift to mankind. 

Arabian Proverb

Horse Grooming - Behaviors

Horse Grooming - Behaviors

I have finally received the time necessary to post this second part to my previous blog, "Horse Grooming - Tools and Supplies". My horses are so much a part of me now and every day brings new challenges I eagerly seek to resolve, constantly creating new depths to our relationship. They are amazing creatures totally connected to nature, which fascinates my mind, my soul. The time spent with them, learning the intricacies of their being fulfills my consciousness. Early on, my interests drove me to learn their individual and social behaviors. Watching them interact within a herd clearly depicts a connection amongst them. Their senses are in tune with nature and each other. Their communication is physical yet unspoken. This unspoken language connects the individual horse to the herd and to nature. I realized by way of a language unspoken, we were able to exchange and share our lives with our horses.  Every natural behavior is purposeful for their existence. They take only what they need and use everything they take.

Within their structure, grooming serves more purpose for the horse than for our straightforward “clean horse” concept. Grooming is a natural behavior for horses and starts before birth and continues throughout a healthy life. Expressed physically in nature, this behavior is performed individually and on each other. Individually, grooming is usually a reaction to stop the stimuli, but shared mutually it is social communication to engage the stimuli; moreover, both responses are purposeful and beneficial for the horse. Horses choose their grooming partners and they tend to be of comparable rank in the social status within the herds dominance hierarchy. Subordinate individuals appear to groom more and initiate more grooming. The natural behavior of grooming is tactile communication and the main functions are bonding, group cohesion and appeasement.

Horses communicate continuously in a language not spoken with words, but expressed and understood through the senses - sight, sound, smell, touch and taste. Horses are perceptive to their surroundings due to the ability to use their senses with meticulous power. The physical reactions of these capabilities are the means of horse communication. Horses spend a great amount of time sniffing objects using their sense of smell to gather and or transmit information. Finding extensive studies on this topic is scarce and I remain enthusiastically searching. Physical signals of sight and touch are some of the most detailed forms of communication exchanged between horses. There are 4 verbal and 2 non-verbal  sounds horses make and their meanings were touched upon in a previous blog, “Horse Behaviors“. Signals exerted from the senses are artfully communicated with precision and is the language horses utilize and understand. Grooming is a natural behavior amongst horses and is communicated successfully to portray a desired mental, physical and or emotional result.

The individual horse grooms itself starting in the womb learning about their body. The behavior of grooming is not to make themselves “attractive”, but purposeful for safety, comfort and play. Individual grooming is usually a response to a foreign stimulus such as flora, pest, and wetness from sweat, bath, etc. How many have ridden their horse and the moment he is free to do at will, a good roll was in store? Rolling in the grass, dirt or mud is a natural behavior to alleviate discomfort. An interesting observation on my horses - when my horses are dry or wet, they will roll, whether in grass, dirt or mud. The action is intended to achieve comfort through stretching, scratching, drying or to coat themselves with the earth for safety from nature’s elements (pest, heat, etc.). These behaviors are forms of preparation – individual grooming for safety, comfort or play.

Mutual grooming is a form of preparation communicated tactically between horses using detailed amounts of physical signals. It is imprint learning taught from birth, developed from the dam-foal relationship. The first few hours post-parturition are crucial to the foal; he learns he is a horse from his dam. The dam teaches a foal "lessons on how to use its senses" by applying the correct pressures in their contact to create levels of sensitivity. Detecting evidence of subtle changes in muscle tone of the grooming partner is an essential survival skill. Equine communication derives from the ability to recognize, interpret and understand these tactile responses. From head rubbing, ear twitching to rhythmical scratching with their teeth, all these behaviors extend meaning to their social partner. The preferred site is at the base of the neck (withers) and some studies even suggest this act may induce altered activity at another site. The theory implies this act reduces the heart rate. The croup area is another main location groomed for social purposes, but it is uncommon to see horses grooming each other around the chest and belly area. Many are uncomfortable around these sensitive regions and this maybe obvious when you groom your horse. You know you are not a horse and your horse knows it too. In reality, both are aware that you are the predator and the horse is the prey – more on this topic later. In addition, you are not a chosen grooming partner, so issues may likely arise in your grooming practice. Therefore, it is essential to learn, to understand, to respond and connect - communicate using their language of the senses.

I would like to interrupt the thought for a moment and acquaint an issue concerning Zapp, associating to the dam-foal relationship. Zapp’s dam died at birth, leaving him without fundamental language and leadership. His previous owner afforded him lots of love, but this did not compensate for the lack of leadership provided through a language he could understand. His previous owner lacked several keys of successfully rearing an orphaned foal. Needless to mention, Zapp packs a few behavior problems. He has come a long way in the past year by means of proper language, leadership and of course love. However, we have a long road ahead to bring him total mental and emotional health, but together we will get there and the journey will be interesting, fulfilling and gratifying .

Zapp's Early Years

Grooming is a natural behavior in the world of horses requiring communication for herd members to connect and bond, and thereby allowing the social network to be maintained. In our world, grooming your horse can provide us the same opportunities. It should not be looked at as a chore, but an opening into the horse’s world – to learn, understand, communicate and bond, a building block for that life-long relationship. Grooming is one road I use to stay connected, to socialize and to bond with my horses.

Basic grooming requires the proper tools and the knowledge of how they are used. How you use the tools, not their quality, really determines the results. Keep your tools in good repair and clean. Do not share them amongst other horses. Most cross tie their horses for procedures like grooming and bathing, but I prefer not to whenever possible. I work towards freedoms, and one is allowing my horses to want to stand still, untied with me for these procedures. Restraint of the horse’s head and thus the inability to flee along with the inability to turn freely and look around is a psychologically frightening situation for it to overcome. Confining a horse’s movement could result in catastrophic circumstances. Learn to trust your horse, take the time to teach him through understanding, through communication. The grooming practice should be a positive experience for you and your horse. My goal is to do more with less.

In order to accomplish my goal, I take each element within the task one step at a time and communicate with my horses what they should do. Teaching your horse to stand still without restraints requires a lot of repetition, approach and retreat tactics, and not to mention TIME! One technique is to put him back in the same place whenever he strays away. Continue to do this until he understands that his responsibility is to stand still. There is an abundance of training techniques available; I will eventually write more on technique, but for the topic of this blog, I continue.

There are so many grooming techniques to perform on your horse; some are beneficial to the horse while others are just beneficial to the horse owner. My philosophy is to let a horse be as natural as possible in our human world. Herein, I have listed standard practices for grooming my horses and if you show your horse, the styles will vary. You can contact your breed association for the required grooming styles.

Basic Grooming

• You should acquire a grooming system in which you and your horse feel comfortable and can enjoy. This ensures that you remain committed and allows your horse to become accustomed to the ritual through repetition.

• Groom your horse daily and before and after you ride.

• Groom your horse thoroughly each time and it will require less work.

• Comb in the direction of hair growth.

• If necessary, safely secure your horse in a suitable location.

• Remember, the time spent grooming your horse allows the opportunity to identify any irregularities and or injuries that may exist. Early detection may prevent a greater health problem later.

Grooming the Hooves

This procedure is vital and needs to be incorporated in the daily grooming routine. I start here because the debris removed from the hooves can collect in the fetlock area. Then when I groom his legs, this is easily removed. Calmly approach your horse with hoof pick in hand and focus on the shoulder area. Most horses will allow you to enter their space through this area without concern. Let your horse smell the hoof pick first before you start the procedure. You should allow your horse to smell everything first before you use it on him. They will soon be able to associate smell with a procedure. This practice will help build trust.

Facing the opposite direction of your horse, stand along side his left shoulder. Your feet parallel with his, start rubbing his shoulder and down his leg. If your horse is jumpy, do not attempt to continue. Do a lot of rubbing, scratching and messaging on his legs and take the time it takes using plenty approach and retreat tactics. Once he is calm, continue. Now, the standard will have you lean against the horse’s left shoulder while sliding your left hand down the cannon to the fetlock and once he shifts his weight and relaxes on the foot, pick it up. I do a lot of message, scratches and rubbing down my horse’s legs and do not want him to pick up his feet, so that he is able to differentiate I use a slight squeeze or twist on the foreleg’s chestnut and a slight squeeze or twist on the hock for the hind legs as cues for hoof pick up. With touch, my goal is to use the slightest possible pressure to achieve a response. There is no need for heaviness, horses are able to feel a fly on their skin; they feel your slightest touches as well. Whichever approach you use, using the point of the hoof pick start at the heel and work towards the toe to dislodge debris. This is the safest technique ensuring the tender parts of the frog are not penetrated. The cleft of the frog should be cleaned too. Proceed to his left hind foot and reverse sides for right legs. I have been able to teach Tsar to lift his feet one at a time, on command, from standing on just one side of him. I am able to clean all four feet without changing sides. For anything you wish to teach your horse, always follow the practice of starting on different sides. Switching sides teaches him to become equally balanced on his left and right side. Use a small wired brush to remove any dried mud on the outside of each hoof, then wet a clean rag with clean water and wipe the outside of each hoof (or you can use baby wet wipes) – allow to dry. Always check their hooves for abnormalities such as Thrush and the condition of their shoes if horse is shod. At this point, administer any natural product required to improve hoof care. Occasionally, I use a human nail buffer block on the outside of each hoof. With this said, there are four sides to these buffers and I only use the “buff” or “shine” side. Never use anything coarser.

There is a natural outer protective layer on the hoof. This layer should remain intact to prohibit harmful moisture, bacteria and fungi to penetrate. If removed or blocked, the hoof is vulnerable to infections and other problems. Hooves need to breathe, so limit products applied to them, even natural ones. Avoid products containing mineral oils (petroleum jelly, etc) and never apply conditioners or polishes to the bottom of the hooves. This makes them soft and moist encouraging the conditions for Thrush to thrive. The bottom of the hoof should always be clean and allowed to dry. A natural hoof conditioner may be beneficial to encourage health and growth, but unless required for the health of the horse, use sparingly and with caution.

A healthy hoof grows about 3/8 to 1/2 inch a month and the fastest growth is at the toe of the hoof. Proper hoof trimming is important because it keeps your horse standing squarely and moving straight. A professional should trim hooves, every six to eight weeks, depending on the growth rate. If your horse has been shod, shoes may be maintained within the same time frame. If there are times when you do not ride your horse, such as in the coldest of winter, let hooves grow a bit longer. In addition, during these periods it should be left unshod so its hooves have a chance to expand without being limited by the shoes. This practice will help prevent contracted heels.

Hooves of a horse will dry out rapidly in dry soil and climates causing them to become brittle and crack. The frog will lose its elasticity. If this dry hoof condition is left unchecked, the frog will shrink and the heel will contract. It is a good thing to allow your horse to walk through a dew kissed pasture and having some moist ground, possibly a watering hole or around the watering facilities is a good prevention. The horses will stand long enough for moisture to go into the hooves. Be careful here, too much moisture in the hooves facilitates infection. Remember Thrush grows in wet and dirty hooves. Thrush is a fungal infection of the hoof and is caused from excessive moisture in his environment (wet pastures, wet stalls, etc) along with the lack of routine hoof cleaning. Remedy these conditions that lead to the development of fungi. It is important to have a routine care program for your horse’s hooves.

“No foot, No horse” 
Jorrock Wormley

Tips from the Trail

Horse's hooves are greatly affected by the conditions the horse is kept in, the food it eats, and the farrier who shoes and trims his feet. Keep the horse from standing on damp dirty pastures and stall beds. Hooves should be cleaned regularly. A professional farrier must be knowledgeable, reputable and empathetic. Do a lot of research in finding a farrier for they are essential in proper horse management.  Internally, a balanced diet plays a fundamental role in healthy hooves. Supplying supplemental herbs such as comfrey, buckwheat, hawthorn, rosehips and nettle will help with circulation, blood cleansing and cell growth. Cleavers contain silica and are excellent for improving hoof quality. Seaweed meal is the all around best hoof supplement. It is full of vitamins, minerals and amino-acids. Allow horses to feed on the seaweed meal at free will.

Note: Applications of diluted essential oils such as lavender or rosemary applied externally to the coronary band can stimulate circulation, thereby improving hoof growth.

Note: Some suggest gelatin for hoof growth. Just to bring to light, gelatin is arrived from the bones and hides of cattle and the question arises of whether it is right to give animal derivatives to a herbivore.

Some of the following suggestions are harmless remedies and can be customary, while others are for those times when you need a "temporary" fix. This means for a limited time - not regularly or permanent; these restrictions are for the well-being of the horse. If there are problems, one needs to find the cause and rectify it to achieve a more permanent, healthy solution. Even for special events, one should not rely on these types of "temporary" fixes as routine.

Polish and Shine:

1)
Hoof polish for dry hooves, use baby oil gel, easy to apply with a rag.

2)
Shine feet the old-fashioned way: Cut an onion in half and rub it on. This is not harmful to the hoof in anyway.

Nail Holes:

1)
In a clean coffee can, mix equal parts Venice turpentine, coal tar and regular turpentine (authentic gum spirits). Let it sit and melt together into a black gooey consistency. Brush it on. Keep inside for the winter for it may harden, if it does thin it out with more turpentine. It prevents white line and other hoof problems

2)
Use molding clay (available in craft store or Wal-Mart) in hoof cracks and chips. Fill these areas in before polishing. There is no drying out, and it protects hoof cracks/chips from polish too.

Thrush Remedies:

Clean hooves with pick before applying

1)
Mix 7% iodine and water in a squirt bottle and apply to the depressions in underside of hoof - the frog and bar areas. Apply 1 to 2 times daily, for 5 to 7 days. Wear gloves because iodine will stain your skin.

2)
Sugar and Iodine mixture:
In a large squirt bottle, mix 2 parts Betadine solution to 1 part white granulated sugar. The mixture should be watery. Dip a sterile roll of cotton into the mix, let excess drip off. Fold cotton and form into horse's hoof, wrap with diaper/pad and secure with duct tape. Change daily for 5 to 7 days. Wear gloves.

3)
Rosemary Sage
A very good thrush treatment is to mix 1 tablespoon of sage with 1 tablespoon of rosemary in 1 cup of boiling water. Let the mixture cool off. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day.

4)
Apple Cider Vinegar
Mix 1/2 cup of water with 1/2 cup of apple cider vinegar. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day. This remedy is great for a preventative measure (use once a week).

5)
Mint Thyme
Mix 2 teaspoons of thyme and 1 tablespoon of dried mint into 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for about 30 minutes, let the mixture cool off. Place in a squirt bottle and apply to underside of hoof, 3 times a day.

6)
Raspberry
Mix 1 tablespoon of raspberry leaves with 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit until it cools off. Strain the mixture and pour into a squirt bottle, then apply this thrush treatment to the underside of hoof 3 times per day.

7)
After picking out the feet and cleft areas, scrub the soles and clefts with a strong salt solution. Choose either tea tree or lavender oil and add 5 drops of the oil to one ounce of a suitable carrier oil such as grape  seed, sunflower or walnut. With a paint brush, apply solution to the whole area two or three times a day. Always scrub the feet with the salt solution before each application.

Hoof Abscesses:

1)
In a small container, mix together equal parts - (only enough for one application):
Warm water
Peroxide
Betadine solution (scrub)

Place mixture in a syringe, with no needle, and flush abscess. DO NOT CAP THE SYRINGE - it will explode. This remedy is great for flushing out wounds too.

Dry Hooves:

1)
Place a sponge in the bottom of a man’s tube sock. Wet sponge through sock. Slip sock over hoof. Let hoof soak for 15 minutes.

Mud Cracks:

1)
Clean and scrub hoof as usual, then apply a mixture of Preparation H with Desitin or athlete's foot powder (generic brands are fine). This stops the itch and alleviates swelling and heat.

Brittle / Cracked Heels:

1)
Scoop all the white petroleum jelly out of the container into a pan and add:
3 teaspoons of olive oil
5 to 6 drops of Tea-tree oil
5 to 6 drops of Lavender oil
2 drops of citronella oil (just for a nice smell)

Over low heat, cook until blended. Stir well and let it cool for about 10 minutes before pouring it back into the container. Place the container in the refrigerator until firm. Use this as a preventative and rub it in well every 2 to 3 days around the heels and up the back of the leg area. This will form an excellent barrier to prevent mud soaking in and will help you to brush dried mud off easily.

2)
Use “Buttock Paste” for cracked heels, nicks, scratches, rain rot, etc. You get it at the drug store. Apply to heels, scratches, etc. as needed.

3)
Mix one pint tar oil with two pints crude cod-liver oil, apply to hooves, with a paint brush, several times a day.

Sore Hooves:

1)
Use disposable diapers or pads to poultice and or to soak feet.

2)
Pack your horses feet with poultice and cover hoof with a disposable diaper/pad. Secure with duct tape. Stays damp longer and therefore more active. You can also pour more water in later to extend treatment.

Tender Hooves:

1)
Apply the following mix a few times a week, until your horse is no longer tender. For an even better effect, wrap hooves after applying.

1/3 DMSO (Dimethyl-Sulfoxide)
1/3 Tincture of Iodine
1/3 Lysol - original strength, in the little brown bottle

Mix in spray bottle, for easy application.

2)
Formaldehyde
Iodine

Mix and paint on the hoof soul to harden feet. Ask your farrier/vet for amounts suitable for your horse.

Winter Hoof Pampering:

The cold can take a toll on hooves, especially if your horse has hoof problems. Horses may begin to move more stiffly, even when they are not on frozen or uneven ground. The following remedy may add relief.

1)
Make a ball of your favorite premixed poultice, enough to fill the bottom of the foot. Put it into a plastic sandwich bag and heat in the microwave for about 20 seconds. Cut off one whole side of the bag, leaving the ball of poultice resting on a single layer of plastic. Holding plastic and poultice in your cupped hand, place to the bottom of the hoof. Using the plastic to apply pressure and spread the poultice out evenly. Place the foot inside a hoof boot/diaper/pad and loosely wrap. Duct tape to hold in place for a prolonged warming effect.

Homemade Poultice:

1)
Epsom salt
Alum

In a container, combine ingredients and add enough hot water to make a paste. Mix to form a paste. Apply to base of hoof. Place hoof in boot/diaper/pad and allow to stay on as long as you can.

2)
Mix up a paste out of white sugar and Betadine solution (scrub). Let sit. In the meantime, soak the horse’s hoof in warm water and Epsom salts for 15 minutes. Remove hoof and apply the sugar/Betadine poultice to the entire bottom of the hoof, mostly in the infected area. Apply a sterile gauze pad on the bottom of hoof and wrap the hoof in a medicine boot or a diaper/pad then duct tape. Do this for a week and change it everyday, even better - do it twice a day.

3)
1/2 cup Epsom salts
4 cups bran
water

Mix together; add enough water to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.

4)
1/3 cup powdered ginger
1/3 buckwheat flour
1/3 cup soy flour
water

Mix first three ingredients together in a bowl, add enough water to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.

5)
Kaopectate
flour or bran

Mix together using enough flour or bran to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.

6)
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
witch hazel

Mix together with enough witch hazel to make a paste. Apply to bottom of hoof and cover.

NOTES:

Add Extra Vigor to Your Poultice:

Before applying poultice, try applying a bit of DMSO first, then the poultice.
Wrap with wet paper, then boot/diaper/pad and duct tape. The DMSO will help keep the poultice wetter, longer.

For leg and hoof applications, you can use menstrual pads or large disposable pads made for human bedding. Cut the disposable pads to any shape you desire. Cover with a tube sock or secure with duct tape.

A trick for making duct tape coverings for wrapping diapers, pads, etc. to hooves/legs; tear off strips and lay them on your jeans in the desired shape, size and thickness. They stay in place until you need them - when ready, pull off one at a time and apply.

Use socks to make an "abscess/soaking sock". After soaking hoof, use cotton socks to slip over the hoof as soon as it is out of the water. It keeps debris from getting in and dries it out while you gather other supplies. More on Poultices See...Herbs for My Horses, Their Uses

Grooming the Body

With a curry comb, start at the top of the neck and work back to the dock area. This comb will remove crusted dirt and brings the deep dirt and dust to the surface, so it can be brushed off later. Come down the shoulder, barrel and hindquarters. Proceed to the legs and repeat procedure on horse's opposite side. Use caution on delicate and boney areas i.e. legs, belly and around/under the tail. There is very little or no fat or muscle in some of these areas to cushion the comb’s edges.

Next, I like to use my hands and fingers to scratch, rub and massage all over my horse’s hair and muscles. This is very relaxing to my horses and stimulates hair growth and muscle tone, as with regular brushing. All horses are individuals and can react differently, so take things slowly, watch his response, his communication, and learn what he is saying.

For the face, brush with a medium-bristle dandy brush. If there is caked on dirt or mud, remove with fingers first. This brush should be used only on the face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush); brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke so it throws dirt away from the hair. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Include ears inside and out, around the eyes and mouth, but be careful and gentle in these areas with dust and dirt making contact.

Use the medium-bristle dandy brush for their body; brush in short, brisk strokes. Flick the bristles up at the end of each stroke, so it throws dirt away from the hair. Use some muscle here, the aim is to bring dirt to the surface. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Notice how the hair changes in direction at different points on the body and watch for these areas. Start at the top of the neck and work back to the dock area. Use the same procedure as with the curry comb until the body has been completely brushed. Again, you must use caution on delicate areas i.e. legs, belly and around/under the tail.

Dampen a clean rag with warm water and wring out. Wipe their face to include eyes, around the muzzle, inside ears and nostrils. Use the fine-bristle brush for their face (it is 1/4 the size of a body brush) and it should only be used on the face. This finishes off the face brushing and since the majority of the dirt should be removed from your horse, you can finish removing the remaining fine dust using long even strokes with the fine-bristle body brush. This step helps distribute natural oils all over the body. *Next, rub your horse from head to tail with a wool cloth, cotton rub rag or knit glove to remove any lingering particles. As you use the cloth/rag, etc., it will accumulate oil from the hair. This oil will help shine the hair and will pick up even more dust. Lastly, lightly spray a clean rag with olive oil, rub inside their ears, wipe around muzzle and inside the nostrils. You may substitute olive oil with baby oil or canola oil, but do not use mineral based products.

*The cloth may be dampened with warm water and wiped over the entire body. This is a temporary substitute for a full bath. Once your horse has dried, continue with another clean dry cotton rag to rub your horse from head to tail to remove any lingering particles.

With all the rags I go through caring for my horses, I have a 5 gallon bucket filled with 1 cup bleach and 3 gallons of water. Place dirty rags to soak and when ready for wash, just pour directly into machine. Add detergent and wash as usual.

Tips from the Trail

Coat Sheen:

1)
¼ cup baby oil
2 cups water
4 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar

Mix in a spray bottle and shake well before applying to hair, then wipe off with a clean rag

2)
¼ cup baby oil
¼ cup human hair conditioner
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Mix in a spray bottle and shake well before applying to hair, then wipe off with a clean rag.

NOTE:
Use caution when applying oil based products to your horse when in the sun. These products will cause sunburn. You don't want to use oily products on your horse before showing, all flying particles will land on his coat.

Grooming the Mane, Tail and Forelock

First, I run my fingers through the forelock, mane and tail to remove lodged debris and tangles. Start at the end hairs and move upwards towards the body. With one hand, always hold the hair just above your working area. Use your free hand to remove debris and tangles. This practice should be applied when brushing these areas as well. Massage the body along the crest of the mane, forelock and the tailbone, from the dock area to the tip. Once this has been completed, proceed combing these areas with a mane and tail comb (a very wide toothed comb). Start at the end of these areas and move upward to the body using gentle downward strokes. Use a clean dampened rag (or wet wipes) with warm water and wipe under the tail, around the anus area and between the hind legs. When grooming the tail, stand at the horse’s side and never directly behind the rear of the horse.

Tips from the Trail

When you turn your horse out to pasture and you want to keep their tail and mane free from tangles, braid them. For the mane, separate hair into 1” sections and place each section into a ponytail or pigtail. Use a rubber band to secure. To remove, cut the bands vs. pulling. 

Tail Rubbing:

1)
Witch Hazel in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail  – rub in.

2)
Original Listerine without added flavors (generic is fine) in a spray bottle and apply to dock area, tail head and tail bone area under lifted tail – rub in.

3)
Lift the tail and rub vitamin E cream into the skin all along the tail bone area. 

Mane / Tail Detangler:

1)
Infusiun hair treatment in a spray bottle – dilute with water.

2)
Sauve detangling spray for kids – dilute with water.

3)
Calgon bath oil beads (dry)
Water

Mix Calgon with water (1 part Calgon to 3 parts water) in a spray bottle. Spray on mane and tail to help recondition. Apply liberally and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush.

4)
For burrs in mane and tail, mix 2 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 2 parts water, in a spray bottle. Apply to mane and tail and work out knots with fingers, then use a wide tooth comb to brush. They glide out with much less effort. It is good to use in any matted mane or tail.

5)
Apply “Pink Oil Spray”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart, in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.

6)
Apply “Cholesterol”, located in the "African hair" section at Wal-Mart in brittle, dry forelock, mane and tail. Use as a leave in conditioner.

7)
Apply “Aussie 2-in-1 Anti-frizz Cream” to forelock, mane and tail. It does not dry the hair out and it will stay soft and easy to brush for weeks. Use as a leave in conditioner.

8)
As an occasional conditioner, spray olive oil (baby oil for white tails/manes) onto your hands or a clean rag and rub into the mane, forelock and tail, start at the ends and move upward using downward strokes. Then with a wide toothed comb, carefully brush through these areas. As well as helping to stop tangles, the oil will make the hairs less brittle.

More recipes See...See ...“Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies” and  "Horse Bathing"

Static:

1)
Mix 3 parts liquid Downy fabric softener to 1 part water, in a spray bottle; apply to mane and tail.

2)
Rub tail and mane with dryer sheets.

Trimming and Clipping

Some will clip and trim their horses for show, or for other various personal preferences, but have you given any thought as to why the hair is there. As I mentioned earlier, I believe in keeping my horses as natural as possible and avoid clipping unless medically necessary. Nature has supplied its creatures with the means of survival and functional components for protection and hair is one of them. I rarely clip or trim any area of my horses. Nonetheless, many people do, so I will include this section along with nature’s intended purpose for its existence. Clipping a horse can be dangerous; always have experienced people to provide assistance, if needed. Use clippers for cutting bridle baths, mane roaching, muzzle whiskers and leg, ear and lower jaw hairs. If your horse is not desensitized to clippers, shears can be used in their place. Here again you can acquaint your horse to clippers/shears with a lot of approach and retreat and repetition. This will take time, start slow and build up your horse’s confidence and trust.

Tip: First, show your horse the clippers/shears and allow him to smell and touch the them. Try approaching your horse with the clippers/shears, in an area away from where you want to clip. Slowly and gently rub them on your horse. Watch his reactions and retreat when necessary. The noise of the clippers can be fearful for the horse, again proceed slowly and use a lot of approach and retreat. The vibrating effect of the clippers upon the horse's body can be used to make the horse familiar with the sensation before attempting the clipping process.

LEGS:

Fetlocks:

Nature has provided longer hair on the fetlock for keeping the sensitive back area of the pastern dry. It acts like a funnel for water to drip off, like a rain gutter.

Coronet:

Again, the hair growth above the hoof keeps the water moving away. A minimal removal of hair creating a neat trim with clippers would be best if you prefer.

Chestnuts:

These are normal healthy growths above the knees on the forelegs and below the hock on the hind legs. They serve no purpose and they will continue to grow into unsightly mounds, if not maintained. No one really knows why they exist, and they have been a subject of curiosity for quite a long time. Some scientists believe that chestnuts and ergots evolved from the pads that were under the toes of a very early ancestor of the horse. Did you know that about 50 million years ago, the first known ancestor of the horse, Eohippus, had four padded toes on the front legs and three padded toes on the back legs. Interestingly, the front hooves of today’s horse are larger than the hind hooves.

Ergots:

They are found on the back of a horse's fetlock on all four legs, but they are usually covered with hair and can not be seen unless the hair is parted.

Both chestnuts and ergots can be trimmed without pain. DO NOT try to remove either chestnuts or ergots entirely, and if you trim them stay above the skin level. Both can often be peeled off layer by layer with your fingers or fingernails. If they are too hard and built up, you can apply a rich human body cream or petroleum jelly regularly to soften them, and then attempt removal. Ergots can often be pinched off with fingernails, remembering to keep above the skin. Resist the temptation to twist the ergot as you pinch it, as this might be uncomfortable for the horse and you could get kicked or stomped.

Tips from the Trail

Saturate chestnuts / ergots with water and allow to soften, then remove as above indicates. Bathing your horse is a great time to remove them. Periodically, about once a week, peel away new growth and apply human rich body cream or petroleum jelly to retain suppleness.

An easy way of keeping feathers trimmed and neat is to use a trimming comb made for dogs. It has a replaceable razor blade screwed in over the teeth.

BODY:

Body clipping truly benefits the human only. Humans enjoy speediness; the horse dries faster after an intense training session or show. However, the skin becomes exposed to nature’s elements, UV rays, rain, wind, cold, insects, etc. The horse will always need blanketing because his natural protection has been removed.

An Exception - Naturally, “Curly” horses or horses with a disorder that grow excessive hair may benefit with a partial body clip.

HEAD:

Muzzle Whiskers:

These whiskers are extremely important to a horse. The two “blind spot” areas of a horse are directly behind his tail and directly below his muzzle. These whiskers estimate distance between the horse and an object. Removal of these hairs restricts the horse’s sense of touch and may cause your horse to become insecure, worried even injured.

Eye Whiskers:

These whiskers should NEVER be removed! They serve as a touch sensor enabling protection to the eyes.

For both of these locations, trimming them back a small bit is a better avenue than total removal. Tsar has very long eye whiskers; one was about 4” long. I did trim it back to about 3”.

Under Jaw:

This area seems to grow out with the winter hair and with my guys; it will thin out and disappear with their annual spring shed. Sometimes, I will help the process along with a little trim.

Ears:

Nature provides hair growth in the ear to protect against insects and debris from entering the ear canal. You may trim with shears along the edges of the ear and the protruding hairs inside that grow past the ear’s edge. Never entirely, shave away the hair inside the ear (sometimes required for show). If removed, a fly mask with ear covers must be used on your horse at all times to ensure good “ear” health.

Tips from the Trail

To trim ear hairs – place your open hand behind the ear and gently close your hand bringing the ear folds together. Trim along the ear’s edge removing protruding hairs.

When using clippers, place a large “pom pom” (diameter needs to be larger than ear opening) in each ear to prevent falling hair entering the ear canal, plus they help minimize the sound of the clippers.

Mane and Tail:

The mane and tail are some of the most beautiful components of a horse. They expose a freedom of their souls, their spirits waving as they gallop upon the earth. Not only are they a splendor of nature, they serve special purposes. They ward off insects, provide protection and help regulate body temperate under certain conditions. The mane should not be shaved completely off (exceptions for certain breeds i.e. the Fjord horse). It serves the horse well and is functional. Hair just as wool, needs many minerals to grow - keratin, sulfur and copper. Of course, this comes from within; therefore,  emphasizing the importance of a healthy diet. Externally, a thin tail or mane can benefit from massaging often. From the dock to the tailbone tip, massage regularly. Do the same along the crest of the mane. Apply hair conditioners frequently and provide daily mineral supplements in their diet. There are several ways you can “neaten” the forelock, mane and tail i.e. pulling, dressing, braiding, etc.

Tips from the Trail

1)
When trimming the end of a tail, ask someone to place an arm beneath the tailbone and lift it up slightly, so that it is in the position in which the horse carries it when moving. Otherwise, you may end up having an unnatural look or cutting it too short.

2)
Use latex gloves for pulling manes; grabs on well and no more blisters on your fingers.

3)
If your horse's mane tends to lie on the wrong side, on both sides, or worse sticks up, pulling it from the underside will help. Then dampen the mane with water and braid it loosely; securing the ends of each braid with rubber bands.

4)
To help mane hair lie down smoothly, use a warm damp towel and lay over horse’s neck, covering crest. Let it rest there for a few minutes. Remove towel and with your hands and fingers comb a mixture of water and styling gel (2:1 ratio) into mane. Let mane dry and comb mane normally with fingers; then with a wide tooth comb. This technique can be applied to the tail.

5)
For the mane, space braids evenly by cutting a piece of plastic comb to approximately 1 to 1 ½ inches in width. Use it to gauge the width of each braid accurately and to make straight divisions in the hairs between them.

6)
Styling gels (Dippity-Do) are great products for braiding into mane and tail to hold them tight.

7)
Cheap hairspray diluted with water (2:1 ratio). Spray on tail and mane before and after braiding to keep braids in place, especially tail braids. Put on tail wrap and leave on for about 20 minutes or until your event. You have a perfect braid with no flyaway hairs.

8)
Make a tube sock into a tail bag by cutting the top into strips. Cut strips about 5" down and approximately 2" apart. Braid horse's tail and tie the strips through the braided tail.

9)
Use vet wrap, instead of buying tail bags. It is colorful, cheaper, disposable and safer for the horse than other tapes.

electrical tape
big roll of vet wrap, choose your color
shampoo
conditioner - leave in is beat or use an oil
1/2" wide elastic by 3"
if its summer time, balers twine

Wash the horse's tail well, then rinse. Let the tail dry a bit and apply leave-in conditioner or oil. Braid the tail, starting just below the tailbone. Not too close or tight possibly cutting off circulation. Braid it all the way to the end. Tightly secure the end of the braid with the elastic. Hold the end of the tail (with the elastic) and put it through the top of the braid, near the tailbone. Depending on the thickness and length of the tail, this step made need to be repeated. Hold it in place and use the electrical tape and start wrapping around the tail. Now, take the vet wrap and stick it too, through the top of the braid (near the tailbone); wrap it around the enfolded tail until the whole tail is covered. If it is summer, cut up pieces of balers twine into 24" pieces. Secure them around the top of the vet wrap with electrical tape. Cover tape with more vet wrap.This will act like a tail to swish those pesky insects away.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Not related to grooming, but; nonetheless an interesting observation to mention. It illustrates the horse’s ability to communicate with each other and the importance of conveying meaningful information. It was a summer evening and we were returning Zapp and Tsar to their pasture when swarms of horseflies flew in suddenly. I with Tsar and my husband with Zapp, started whirling our arms and leads in the air above the horses to lessen the impact of the raid. Immediately, the horses came together, along side of each other, facing in opposite directions. This action of safeguarding one another permitted each horse to defend only one side. I was amazed at the mastery and precision of the unspoken language communicated and understood between them. Within seconds, this performance was executed without one word uttered. This demonstration was a gesture holding many connotations, I believe. Of the 4 conditions horses need, two, safety and comfort, showed up emphasizing the importance of social bonding, group cohesion and appeasement between horses. Even without words, the communication strength between them was evident. It is the catalysts that creates the bond, the partnership, the relationship that was so apparent, caring enough to uphold these connections.

It is up to me to continue to learn the language of my horses and to stay connected, so our relationship can go forward. Grooming is a very important way to gain benefits of spending time with my horse, allowing opportunities to open and build on the partnership.

Once your grooming practice is complete, you can step back and take a look. A well-maintained horse should be the result. This effort is a direct reflection of the respect the owners have for their horse. In turn, your horse will be well-mannered, showing a direct reflection of the respect the horse has for its owner.

Go Green Tips:

• Upholsterer's wax-coated thread is great for braiding into mane braids. It has superior holding power.
• Suede shoe spray is great for touching up those faded and scruffy velveteen cowboy or riding hats.Wipe them down first with a lightly damp cloth and let dry before spraying

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

  

The essential joy of being with horses is that it brings us in contact with the rare elements of grace, beauty, spirit, and fire.
Sharon Ralls Lemon