Horse Weight How To

How to Weigh a Horse

There are many benefits in knowing and monitoring the weight of your horse. Just to name a few, the horse's weight will determine maximum limits for safe trailer hauling, feed rations, and necessary dosage amounts for administering medicine (including worming applications). In addition, regular checking will allow you to screen for continuous gains or rapid drops in weight which could indicate serious health issues. Although calibrated livestock scales are the most accurate way to measure the weight of a horse, their size and cost makes them a unrealistic option for the average horse owner. However, with some simple devices there are relatively straightforward methods in which anyone can perform the task attaining an estimated weight. Weight figures calculated periodically can assist in various ways in making decisions.

Method #1

Height / Weight Tape Measure:

This is probably the most common technique used today to estimate a horse’s weight. These tape measures have been available on the market for a number of years and most find them reasonably close to an accurate weight.

• The horse should stand square on level ground with head upright
• Drop the weight tape over the horses back from the base of its withers draping one end of the tape over each side of the horse
• Adjust the tape end (opposite your standing side) making its length hang beyond the horse’s belly
• Bring the tape underneath the horse just behind its elbow and foreleg (horse’s circumference)
• Join the two ends of the tape together and pull it tight enough to depress the flesh slightly
• Take the reading where the tip of the tape meets the figures (horse’s girth or “heart girth” measurement)   

Note: The tape is too far back if when the tape ends meet it forms a vertical line. This will produce an inaccurate reading. Aim for a slightly back slash angled line ( / ) (Figure 1). It is hard to make an equine measure up the same every time. Take a few measurements and average the readings

Figure 1

Notice the tape measure runs at an angle

 Method #2

Standard Cloth Tape Measure in Inches and a Formula:

Using this method requires a few steps and a formula applied to the values collected

Step #1

• The horse should stand square on level ground with head upright
• Drop the weight tape over the horses back from the base of its withers draping one end of the tape over each side of the horse
• Adjust the tape end (opposite your standing side) making its length hang beyond the horse’s belly
• Bring the tape underneath the horse just behind its elbow and foreleg (horse’s circumference)
• Join the two ends of the tape together and pull it tight enough to depress the flesh slightly. Take the reading where the tip of the tape meets the figures (horse’s girth or “heart girth” measurement) (Figure 2, distance C)

Note: The tape is too far back if when the tape ends meet it forms a vertical line. This will produce an inaccurate reading. Aim for a slightly back slash angled line ( / ) (Figure 2, line C). It is hard to make an equine measure up the same every time. Take a few measurements and average the readings

Step #2

• Measure the length of the horse by placing the tape at the point of the shoulder and run it along his body to the point of the croup (hip) (Figure 2, distance A to B)
• The tape should either follow the contours of the horse's body for this measurement or simply be held taut and in place from one point to the next. Notice the tape measure does not run straight from end to end, but in an upward angle (Figure 2, distance A to B)

Step #3

• Using the values obtained in steps 1 and 2, calculate the weight by applying the following formula:

Heart girth x Heart girth x length
divide this number by 300
then add 50

This method will give results of plus or minus 3%

Figure 2

Notice the angles in the placement of the measuring tape

Example:
If the Heart Girth is 72” and the Length is 66” the following example shows the process of calculating a result.

72” x 72” x 66” = 342,144

Divide 342,144 by 300 = 1140.48

Then 1140.48 + 50 = 1190.48 lbs

Method #3

Standard Cloth Tape Measure in Inches:

• The horse should stand square on level ground with head upright
• Drop the weight tape over the horses back from the base of its withers draping one end of the tape over each side of the horse
• Adjust the tape end (opposite your standing side) making its length hang beyond the horse’s belly
• Bring the tape underneath the horse just behind its elbow and foreleg (horse’s circumference)
• Join the two ends of the tape together and pull it tight enough to depress the flesh slightly. Take the reading where the tip of the tape meets the figures (horse’s girth or “heart girth” measurement) 

Note: The tape is too far back if when the tape ends meet it forms a vertical line. This will produce an inaccurate reading. Aim for a slightly back slash angled line ( / ) (Figure 1). It is hard to make an equine measure up the same every time. Take a few measurements and average the readings.

The following chart has already calculated the weight. This method is probably the least accurate of the three, while understanding this, it can be a quick guide used for comparing results from the other two methods. This chart copied or printed can be kept in your barn, grooming kit or any other convenient location.

All these methods will give a good practical estimation of the “average” horse’s weight through practice and observation. Only a calibrated livestock scale will give you accuracy. However, if the methods mentioned herein are used in a consistent manner they can produce records for monitoring the weight of a horse. Weight tapes tend to be more accurate when used on an average horse of ideal/ good body condition score.

Estimating the weight of "nonstandard" horses using tape measures may be difficult and the accuracy of the results become less reliable if the horse's relative body proportions vary too much from the "average". The above mentioned methods fall within the average guidelines, but as we know, all horses are individuals, and factors must be considered where circumstances will likely reflect a deceptive weight measurement. Foals or young growing horses change regularly with time. Also, a horse that is very fit or unfit, has an unusual conformation, or whose body condition score is higher or lower than ideal are situations where inconsistent qualities can arise.

Whichever method you choose (after possibly trying all three), remain regular and consistent each time you measure. Always follow a set procedure to perform your readings and computations, and keep such parameters as time of day, weather, exercise and feeding sequences as consistent as you can. Overtime, the data collected on estimated weight will be a constructive indicator of occurrences and an effective record for monitoring purposes.

Go Green Tips:

• Replace regular light bulbs with florescent bulbs

• Place lighting fixtures along the front or side walls vs. overhead to decrease shadows in the stall

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

A horse gallops with his lung
Perseveres with his heart,
and wins with his character
Tesio

Horse Height How To

How to Measure the Height of a Horse

History of the "Hand" Measurement

A hand or handbreadth is a unit of length measurement originally based on the breadth of a male hand. In ancient cultures, measuring units developed based upon references people of the time could relate to, such as body parts (e.g., hand, foot). History suggest about 5000 years ago, the procedure of "hand" measurement was as rudimentary as stacking a man’s clenched fist one upon another. It is believed the “hand” measurement was four fingers wide at one point in time, and at others, it was four fingers and a thumb wide. This tells us it was rather rough, inaccurate and inconsistent.

Requiring a uniform dimension, around 3000 BC the Egyptians standardized the “hand” measurement. Five digits equaled a hand and four digits, a palm (Figure 1). Because of the enormous influence of the Egyptian culture, use of this system migrated to other cultures and countries. This form of measurement was not a planned system. It evolved, growing out of custom and popular usage and at some point in time, horse owners and traders agreed to do business with the “hand” standardized at 4 inches.

Figure 1

Some History Tidbits on Linear Measurement:

While the Romans occupied Britain from 43 AD until 410 AD they introduced the mile of 5000 feet (1000 paces) or double steps, the pace being equal to five Roman feet.

During the 10th Century, Saxon King Edgar and Henry 1 established the distance from the nose tip to the outstretched thumb to equal one yard.

Edward 1, during the 13th Century by decree standardized a long list of measures:
3 grains of barley = 1 inch
12 inches = 1 foot
3 feet = 1 yard
5 ½ yards = 1 rod
The rod equaled the combined total length of the left feet of the first 16 men leaving church on Sunday.
40 rods x 4 rods = 1 acre
The acre equaled the amount of land one man with an ox could work in one day.

During her reign from 1558 to 1603, Queen Elizabeth I changed, by statute, the Roman mile from 5000 feet to 5280 feet or 8 furlongs, a furlong being 40 rod (unit)s of 5 ½ yards each.

The "Hand" Measurement Today

The “hand” has become a tradition of measurement in several different countries, including the USA, Australia and the UK in the determination of height for ponies, horses and other equines. This form of measurement is accurate to one inch, still not precise, but a habit with thousands of years behind the system, it is doubtful it will change. The highest point of a horse is the top of its head (poll), but since a horse can move its head up and down making it impossible to take a true measurement, the withers are used. The height of a horse is measured in a vertical line from level ground to the highest point of the withers (Figure 2).

Figure 2

Lets Measure ‘Em Up

There are several different methods available to measure the height of a horse. While certain aspects are similar, variations lie within the equipment used.

The horse should stand squarely on all four feet and on level ground (i.e. concrete, plywood or dry level earth).

It is hard to make an equine measure up the same every time. Take a few measurements and average the readings.

Measuring should be done when the animals hooves are freshly trimmed, or at least of proper length. Long toes and the addition of shoes can add to a height.

Have all the equipment needed lying on the ground close to horse.

Equipment Variables:

Metal or Cloth Tape:

Use a measuring tape; calculate the inches from the ground to the highest point of the horse's withers (Figure 2, A to B). An easy indicator to locate the highest point of the withers - lay an edible treat on the ground in front of the animal. When it puts its head down to eat the goody, look at the shoulders. The part of the shoulder that protrudes the highest is the point of the withers to extend the measuring tape.

Place measuring tape on ground from the “zero” end and hold in place with the tip of your boot, block of wood, brick etc. Pull the tape up to the highest point on your horse’s withers making sure the tape measure is perpendicular to the ground keeping it at the same distance all the way – do not pull the tape measure to meet the horse’s withers. The tape measure should be about 1 - 2 feet away from your horse’s withers. Use a carpenter’s level and place it on the horse’s withers to meet the tape measure. Embedded in the middle of the level is a small window where the bubble and the tube is mounted (vial). Two notches (or rings) designate where the bubble should be if the surface is level. Once level, read the measurement. A carpenter’s level gives you a more accurate reading, but any flat surface will work like a small piece of wood, crop, yardstick, etc.

Carpenter’s Level:

Calculating the Results:

Convert the measurement from inches to hands. One hand is equal to 4 inches, so divide the height in inches by 4. Example, if the horse measures 60 inches, divide by 4 and the correct measurement is 15h (“h” stands for hands) or 15hh (“hh” stands for hands high).

If the horse measures 62 inches, divide by 4 and you will get 15.50. Remembering a hand is 4 inches, the fraction .50 is two equal quarters of 4 or simply “2”. In horseman's terms, this equates to 15 hands, 2 inches.

When written correctly, the number before the period is the number of whole hands and the number after the period is the remaining number of inches. The number after the period is not a fraction – it is inches. The acceptable language of the measurement when spoken is to say either, "15.2 hands," “15.2 hands high” or simply "fifteen-two."

If your original measurement from the tape is a fraction of an inch i.e. 60 ½”, some people will incorporate them into the height of the equine, but by standards most do not. So, round ½“ measurements or any fractions below that down to the closest whole inch and round fractions above ½ “ up to the next whole inch.

For those wishing to use metric, 4 inches equals 10.16 centimeters.

The following link will do the conversion for you.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/horse_height.htm

The following measuring devices are convenient for measuring the height of equines. Hand and inch measurements are already marked on them giving the measurements easily.

Rigid Poles with Short Cross Bars:

Special Equine Height/Weight Tape Measure:

See...How to Weigh Your Horse

Some Equine Height Tidbits:

A pony will measure up to 14.2hh (58’) and anything above 14.2hh is classified as a horse. However, breed characteristics also play a role in defining animals as horses or ponies. In the United States, ponies in some classes of show competition are sometimes further subdivided into sections, depending on height:

Small pony: 12.2hh or smaller

Medium Pony: taller than 12.2hh up to 13.2hh
Large Pony: taller than 13.2hh, but shorter than 14.2hh

In Australia, ponies measure under 14hh and horses that measure from 14hh to 15hh are known as a Galloway.

A miniature horse is shorter than 9.2hh or 8.2hh, depending on the registry.

As of April 2008, Thumbelina is the world’s smallest horse standing at 4.1hh and the world’s tallest is Noddy standing 20.1 hands and said to be still growing.

For FEI and USEF competition in the United States, a horse can be measured with shoes on or off, but in the United Kingdom, the JMB requires shoes to be removed for measurements.

Tips from the Trail:

Some people in the industry say that if you measure an equine after the age of 2 years from the elbow to ergot, multiply the number by two, and then add the measurement from the ergot to the ground it will produce the adult height of the equine when completely grown.

Go Green Tips:

Cut down your purchases and waste:

• Borrow from barn mates when you only need something temporarily, ask if they would loan it to you or give you some if it is a disposable item - repay them by a similar gesture
• Share with barn mates things like books, magazines, movies, games, newspapers , shampoos, conditioners and other products that are not individual to a horse - i.e tack, grooming tools, etc
  

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

A horse is poetry in motion
Author Unknown

Horse Body Condition Scoring System

HORSE BODY CONDITIONS

Remember Goldilocks and the Tree Bears? 

Find the Right Score that Fits Your Horse

Horse Body Condition Scoring System

What is It?

Statistically more and more people are becoming conscious of their health and the importance food and exercise play in attaining a long healthy life. For a long time, I have been among those continuing to make efforts to improve the health and longevity of my family members, including our pets. I have devoted a lot of effort to applying concepts of proper balance with a routine exercise program, and the appropriate foods and portions they consume in their diet.

A moderate body condition with well balanced composition ratios is vital to one’s well being: despite the gene pool and early life conditions we were dealt with, maintaining it in maturity lies solely in the individual’s hands. No matter the race, sex or age, there is an abundant of shapes and sizes in the world and we have indefinite words describing the many forms (fat, skinny, looks good, looks bad, etc), which leave differences in interpretation. These circumstances of imprecise, subjective physical descriptions are relevant to properly assessing the body condition of a horse as well. Considering this concern, Dr. Don Henneke during his tenure at A&M University, developed a simple and consistent method of evaluating a horse’s body condition. His standardized scoring system is an objective method widely accepted in the equine industry and additionally in the courts of law in prosecuting cruelty cases. Today, an individual has a standard management tool through Dr. Henneke’s scoring system to assess relative body fat in horses.

The Body Condition Score (BCS) system is the process of analyzing set positions on the horse and then assigning a score of 1 (extremely emaciated) to 9 (extremely fat) for a particular body condition following certain descriptive criteria. The system is based on visual appraisal (what the horse looks like) and manual palpation (what the horse feels like) of fat cover on six set areas of the horse’s body. The BCS system evaluates only the amount of body fat covering skeletal markers on the six locations, not quality or conformation of the horse. However, just as with humans, there are variables amongst horses to reflect on while making the evaluation. The final score could possibly be altered if these variables are not considered. You need to analyze the “total” horse and take into account its individual differences to reach a score accurately.

Considerations

Considering the individual situation of the horse, do not disregard its differences from typical body types. Instead make concessions for them or the criteria within each score may be difficult to apply. Because of unique contours in horses, visual inspection maybe misleading in determining the actual situation. Recommendations to eliminate misinterpretation of decisive factors from the visual appraisal include issues such as prominent withers, weak top lines, injuries, and so forth. Next, consider external and internal factors that can impact appearance. Skeletal landmarks can be obscured by dirt, lighting, a winter coat, or just the way the horse is standing. Also, you must give appropriate regard to the changing conformation throughout the gestation period of pregnant mares. Additionally, a horse may look extended or condensed due to digestive contents, but the prominence of the skeleton will not change upon a closer palpation inspection.

Now, is it muscle or fat? The intensity of exercise will affect conformation. When examining a horse visually or by palpation, it is easily determined if the horse is extremely malnourished. Obviously, under conditions of malnourishment, fat content may have been significantly reduced, but with some horses, observation points like the hindquarters, shoulders, and around the tailhead can have unusual formations of muscle mass where fat may normally collect. Fat feels soft and spongy to the touch and muscle is hard and firm. A little practice with palpitation will allow the evaluation to easily differentiate between the two. When horses are difficult to evaluate visually, the amount of body fat in relation to musculature must be determined by feel. In all these described instances, as well as the remaining sites in the BCS diagram, the need of additional emphasis placed on palpation and visual evaluation is required. Score a horse according to its individual characteristics using both visual and palpation exams.

The Ideal Score

There is no doubt that you are what you eat and supplying the correct nutritional needs to your horse is essential to their overall health. Maintaining a healthy diet and exercise program is key to achieving the ideal body score between 5 to 7 for horses. These optimum scores exemplify a horse to have an appropriate fat reserve. Fat is stored energy. These reserves are energy to utilize when necessary, notably in stressful situations. The horse scoring a 3 or below will have practically to absolutely no fat reserve and will make use of vital protein from muscle for energy exacerbate. The deficiencies in their suboptimal condition even more. On the other hand, a score of 8 or above demonstrates an excess of fat that impacts the body adversely by weakening its normal efficiency causing a cascade of events also. These extreme cases are opposite ends of the spectrum and both have pressing issues, but the first more imminent and requires immediate attention.

Descriptions of the nine condition scores each have distinctive characteristics. The ideal median score for a horse is 5, which requires a visual and palpation examination, but the extremes, below 4 and above 7, are noticeable by just a visual evaluation. Still a palpation exam will be necessary to obtain an accurate score. Pictures of extreme cases are numerous all over the internet, especially in cruelty cases with scores below 4. A horse allowed to reach score 3 or below is an unjustifiable wickedness. Posting pictures of this malice is not the purpose of this blog, but if you are aware of horses suffering in this manner, notify authorities immediately. Horses above a score of 7 are not healthy either and the lasting effects can be detrimental. The owner needs to take action to rectify the problem as soon as possible.

Put the System to Work

As a horse gains weight, fat lays down in predictable patterns. First, it will cover to protect vital organs and then it forms in other sections of the body. BCS assigns a numerical value to fat deposition in six areas. Some people have added areas to Dr. Henneke’s original six, but only Dr. Henneke’s areas will be visited here (Figure 1):

A) crest of the neck
B) along the withers
C) crease down the back (loin)
D) at the tailhead, rump
E) over the ribs at mid-barrel
F) behind the shoulder

Figure 1

Evaluate and score each area individually through direct observation and manual palpation. Press each of the six parts of the horse using physical contact and moderate pressure with your hands rating each area. Press with your hand holding it flat, fingers together, feel the reference points, and notice the fat coverings. Be firm and gentle. Both gestures are necessary to score a horse properly. Continue this process on the other side of your horse and see if your observations are consistent. Assign the numerical score to each part of the horse from visual and manual exams that correspond with its condition (Figure 2). Compare the results and total the six numbers you have collected and divide by six giving a resulting number, which is the horse’s rating score on the Henneke Body Scoring Condition Chart.

Figure 2

Score 1: Poor

Horse is extremely emaciated with no fatty tissue felt

Neck – bone structure is easily visible
Withers - bone structure is easily visible
Loin – spinous processes project prominently, also in the hip joints and lower pelvic bones
Tailhead - spinous processes project prominently
Ribs – bones project prominently
Shoulder – bone structure is easily visible

Score 2: Very Thin

Horse is emaciated with slight fat tissue covering over base of spinous processes

Neck – bone structure is faintly discernible
Withers - bone structure is faintly discernible
Loin – transverse processes of lumbar vertebrae feel rounded
Tailhead - spinous processes prominent, also in the hip joints and lower pelvic bones
Ribs – very little fat cover with bones easily discernible
Shoulder – bone structure is faintly discernible

Score 3: Thin

Neck – bone structure is accentuated
Withers - bone structure is accentuated
Loin – fat buildup halfway on spinous processes but easily visible; transverse processes of lumbar vertebrae cannot be felt
Tailhead – prominent, but individual vertebrae cannot be identified visually, also the hip joints appear rounded but easily discernible and lower pelvic bones are not distinguishable
Ribs –slight fat cover with bones easily discernible
Shoulder – bone structure is accentuated

Score 4: Moderately Thin

Neck – not obviously thin
Withers – not obviously thin
Loin – slight ridge or negative crease
Tailhead – prominent depending on conformation, fat can be felt; hip joints not discernible
Ribs – faint outline of ribs discernible
Shoulders - not obviously thin

Score 5: Moderate

Neck – blend smoothly into body
Withers – appear rounded over spinous processes
Loin – back is flat/level with no crease or ridge
Tailhead – fat beginning to feel spongy
Ribs – not visually distinguishable, but easily felt
Shoulders - blend smoothly into body

Score 6: Moderately Fleshy

Neck – fat deposits beginning to form
Withers – fat deposits beginning to form
Loin – may have slight/positive crease
Tailhead – fat feels soft
Ribs – fat over ribs spongy
Shoulders - fat deposits beginning to form

Score 7: Fleshy

Neck – fat deposits
Withers – fat deposits
Loin – may have slight/positive crease down back
Tailhead – fat feels soft
Ribs – noticeable filling between ribs with fat, but ribs can be felt
Shoulders - fat deposits

Score 8: Fat

Neck – noticeable thickening of neck and fat deposits along inner thighs
Withers – filled with fat
Loin – positive crease down back
Tailhead – fat feels very soft
Ribs – difficult to feel ribs
Shoulders - filled with fat

Score 9: Extremely Fat

Neck – bulging fat and inner thighs may rub together
Withers – bulging fat
Loin – obvious positive crease down back
Tailhead – bulging fat
Ribs – patchy fat appearing and flank area filled with fat
Shoulders - bulging fat

Now What?

It is important to achieve and maintain a proper body condition in your horse. BCS is a clue to its overall health. It may be a more reliable indicator of nutritional status than live weight scales because BCS measures the balance between intake and expenditure of energy giving you an accurate evaluation to make adjustments in the horse’s diet, exercise and other programs. Body condition directly relates to the way a horse functions and there are factors that influence the horse’s body condition.

Following are some areas that may influence the horse’s body condition and here is where you will make the changes necessary to reach the ideal score for your horse:

Availability and amount of food and water
Reproduction Status
Weather Changes
Activity Demands
Parasite Load
Dental Abnormalities

Condition score is a helpful tool in determining the amount and type of forage, concentrate and supplement needed. Depending upon the area(s), adjust your programs slowly. To adjust scores safely either upward or downward, the regulation of energy intake is extremely important. Adjust feeding program to ensure adequate energy intake from a forage-based diet. For horses with a BCS below 5, provide higher quality forages and/or higher levels of energy supplements balanced with protein to increase weight or improve condition score. Research has shown that increasing or decreasing energy intake by 10 to 15 percent above or below the animal’s requirement will result in weight gain or loss and an appropriate adjustment in the condition score. This can be accomplished by increasing or decreasing the grain (concentrate) portion of the diet by 20 percent to move either up or down one condition score within a 2-week period (Ott and Asquith). For the obese horse that is maintained on pasture only, the horse may need to be put on dry lot part of the day to decrease its intake. An easy keeper on solely a hay diet and still carrying too much weight may benefit from more mature hay. This will provide the fill needed by the digestive tract while reducing caloric intake. Other than addressing intake, increasing the horse’s exercise program can also help with shedding added pounds. Always, provide horses with mineral supplements and free-choice seaweed meal year-round and control disease and parasites by developing an appropriate health program (consult your veterinarian). See... Spring Clean Your Barn, Disinfect Your Barn, Pest Control and Pest Control B.

BCS with a little time and practice can be used by anyone, anywhere at anytime. Under “normal” circumstances, perform BCS on a regular basis and hopefully with a regulated diet, exercise program and regular medical exams both you and your horse can enjoy a long healthy life.

Go Green Tips:

• Fresh fruits and vegetables fed to your horse as treats are healthy alternatives for him
• Add water to your horse's daily feedings, mix well until water is absorbed; fermentation occurs outside instead of inside the digestive system. Moisturizing helps reduce the amounts of dropped feed when eating too!

Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

My horse's feet are as swift as rolling thunder
He carries me away from all my fears
And when the world threatens to fall asunder
His mane is there to wipe away my tears.

Bonnie Lewis

Winterize Your Horse, Barn, Yard and Equipment

Prepare Your Horse, Barn, Yard and Equipment for Winter

The cold season is ahead. Even though while I am writing today, the temperature outside is 73◦ appearing springlike, the season change is inevitable and the time to prepare is now. Some of winter’s conditions will offer a pleasing beauty to gaze upon, but to deal with unexpected issues in inclement weather is never gratifying. Fall is the time to arrange your schedule for the necessary preparations because … an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

     Most equestrians reduce or perhaps even eliminate their horse’s activity level in the winter season, but daily attention is still required to ensure that all is well. Caring for your horse is certainly a challenge and your continuous commitment is tested even more in the frigid climate of winter. Nevertheless, we ask so much of them and so willingly do they give and in comparison, they ask so little in return… we are truly indebted. Maintaining a proper management program to achieve a healthy horse is a responsibility to uphold year round. Anything worth having takes time, so contribute to them responsibly and you will find endless rewarding benefits no matter what season.

Provide the Five Freedoms for Your Horse:

Freedom from hunger and thirst…
Freedom from discomfort…
Freedom form pain, injury or disease…
Freedom to express normal behavior…
Freedom from fear and distress…

The Five Freedoms are discussed in their entirety in previous blog... “Horse Bathing”

Winterize Your Horse

     Nature provides horses adequately for winter weather conditions when in their “natural” state. Capable of taking measures to manage nature’s cold climate situations; horses will forage for appropriate food, seek out open water to drink, generate warmth by herding together and find sufficient shelter. However, when man intervenes and limits their abilities, horses become very dependent upon their holders to supply these and other necessities.

Nutrition

      Winterizing your horse by making him able to adapt to and be comfortable with whatever nature presents requires proper preparation, by you. Appropriate nutrition and water supply is vital for your horse year round, but these components can be limiting during the winter season causing stress and compromised health. Your horse needs to be healthy prior to this coming season enabling him to endure. A great physical condition allows the advantage he will need to weather the extreme circumstances. Proper nutrition management and clean fluid water will help to provide this advantage.

     An apt nutritional program will aid in maintaining your horse’s normal body temperature, thus keeping him warm. In the winter, forage is the fuel that keeps a horse warm. The horse’s body generates more heat from the fermentation process in the hind gut because of eating forage (hay and pasture). In winter, when the pastures go dormant and offer very little nutritional value, a supply of high quality hay is crucial. On average for a mature horse in light exercise, he will need about 1.5% - 3% of his body weight per day of high quality roughage (air-dry feed). With that said, a ration of 2% or about 24 pounds of all combined air-dry feed (grain and hay) is fed to each of my 1200-pound horses, per day. In a winter’s day, since each horse receives 6 pounds of grain; they will need to consume about 18 pounds of additional well-cured grass hay. While hay preferences vary, always ensure the hay is clean and mold-free. Feeding the horse off the ground or at a position below his head aids in proper nasal and lung drainage. This is a natural eating position and lessens the incidence of respiratory problems. Monitor the local weather predictions and increase the amount of hay intake two to three days in advance of extreme conditions to aid your horse in keeping his normal body temperature.

     If you supply grain to the diet, continue with portions during the winter months. Usually there is a reduction in your horse’s activity level in the winter, which means a reduced need for calories; however, they will require additional calories to generate body heat maintaining normal body temperature during cold spells. If his activity is decreased drastically and he does not need the calories to sustain weight, feed more hay and less grain. A good guide to follow; substitute 2 pounds of hay for every pound of grain reduced in his daily ration to enable the horse to maintain energy and to stay warm. In summer, a horse consumes lush green pasture and in winter the changes to his diet usually occur with additional hay and or grain. Take great care when adapting such diet changes. Fresh green grass acts like a laxative while grass hay may have an opposite effect. Health risks can increase in the aftermath of diet changes, colic being one. A less intrusive feeding program is to continue feeding hay throughout the year. Supply smaller portions of hay in summer, spring and fall, when pastures are prosperous eliminating abrupt changes in diet.

     Watch your horse's body condition and make certain he is not losing weight. With a winter coat, it may be impossible to see visually his body condition, so run your fingers down his side and along spine to the croup area feeling for bony protrusions. If you can barely feel the outline of horse's ribs under slight hand pressure and no significant protrusion of his backbone, he is maintaining an adequate weight. This hands-on inspection also affords the opportunity to check your horse for injuries otherwise hidden from view by a long winter coat. Perform this practice weekly and for a more accurate assessment, every month achieve a weight measurement by scale or tape. If he is losing weight, an increase of grain intake may be necessary.

     Paying close attention to your horse’s nutritional needs and making adjustments before body conditions begin to decline is fundamental in management, especially in cold weather. Concentrate on their energy (calorie) requirements. A body score of 5.5 to 7.0 is ideal for your horse to live outside with a 3- sided shelter open to the south, in the winter. He will develop a winter coat and will not need to consume more calories until the temperature falls below 15◦F. His metabolic rate will increase by about 35% to stay warm, when temperatures fall below 15◦F. A natural reaction of the body to combat the cold is shivering, which is the rapid contraction and relaxation of the muscles to create heat. Shivering is evidence of poor nutritional management and should be avoided. The additional energy consumed by shivering may eventually compromise the horse's ability to maintain crucial core temperature. Horses require additional calories to generate body heat during cold spells.

     Horses obtain calories from proteins, fats and carbohydrates. If the ideal body condition is not maintainable by feeding your horse daily the average 2% of his body weight with hay and grain, increasing the amount of forage (hay) is the starting point to supply more calories for your horse. The benefits of calories will maintain an ideal body condition and deliver adequate heat generated during the fermentation of fiber in the hind gut. If the ideal body condition is still not attainable, the next step is to increase his grain consumption per day. A general guide is to increase quantities by ¼ measures each week until the body condition begins to improve and then maintain that amount throughout the winter months. In addition, for every 3◦F below 15◦F, your horse will need 3% more digestible energy or calories. Depending on the amount of calories in your grain mix, this on average amounts to an additional 1/3 to 1/2 pounds of grain, per day. If your horse still needs more calories, then add calories from fat. Fat contains three times the calories found in oats and four times the calories found in average grass hay, so add sparingly. Always, pay attention to those weather forecasts to adjust feed when necessary.

     Vitamins and minerals are part of proper nutritional management for your horse. Make certain the daily-required allowance is maintained along with an accessible supply of salt (a high quality source is Himalayan rock salt). It is important to know your horse’s requirements. A guideline would be to stockpile enough hay and grain to last at least two weeks, and preferably longer for those emergency conditions that may arise during the unpredictable weather of winter.

     So many variables determine a proper feeding program for an individual horse from weather to age. Most importantly, know your horse, watch his body condition, talk with your veterinarian and be versatile.

Water

     Water is essential for sustaining life and your horse must have free access daily. An average horse requires from 5 -10 gallons per day which needs to be clean and ice-free. Less availability from cold or frozen sources and with a diet consisting mainly of hay reduces the consumption level during cooler temperatures. Hay has a water content of only 10% while pasture contains nearly 80%. The myth that horses will eat snow is a falsehood with dire consequential results. Some probably do lick it occasionally, but they would need to consume six times the amount to produce an equal amount of water. Do not rely on snow or ice to supply their water requirements. It is central to ensure your horse consumes an adequate amount of water to remain healthy.

     Some health risks are likely if the horse’s water intake is reduced. Consuming cold substances lowers body heat, which is contradictory to the necessary outcome of providing warmth for the horse in winter. Drinking cold water during winter months will burn up additional calories to warm tissues back from the heat loss, therefore they instinctively drink less. Besides, cold water is not palatable to a horse and maintaining temperatures between 45◦F - 65◦F will encourage him to drink more generously. In addition, with a larger ingestion of hay during the winter, water consumption encouragement is required to keep the foods flushing through the digestive tract; considering the reverse, lower water consumption may result in a higher risk of colic impaction. Promote water consumption by maintaining water temperatures, adding electrolytes (natural Blackstrap molasses) to grain or water and provide access to salt. Provide all the necessities to keep your horse well hydrated, warm and healthy.

Tips from the Trail:

Scrub your water buckets and troughs clean in the last days of fall, before the arriving cold days of winter. Comet is a great cleaner for these procedures – no suds. Other cleaning Tips See... "Spring Clean Your Barn and Yard"

Buckets

Rubber buckets cost more but make it easier to knock out the frozen water as opposed to the plastic buckets that may shatter. The additional expense of rubber may be justifiable by eliminating the purchase of more plastic buckets.

Use insulated bucket holders.

Carry tepid water in buckets from the house or barn to your horse.

Top off frozen buckets with extremely hot water, but stand guard to prevent horse from drinking until it melts frozen ice and cools down to appropriate drinking temperatures.

Troughs

Have troughs under a three-sided shelter.

Install water heaters or an automatic heated water bowl, both are sound investments. Plug into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) extension cord to prevent shock, or directly into a ground fault indicator receptacle. Use according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Insulate around the trough with bales of straw, sand bags or even field stones. This can aid in keeping water ice free and lessen the amount of electricity used from heaters in keeping the water warm.

Allow a football to float in trough. Its movement can minimize water freeze except of course in case of an extreme frost. A ball big enough so horse cannot get in his mouth.

Add vinegar to troughs reducing algae growth.

Hoof Care

     Moisture, moisture, moisture… is so prevalent in the winter season making hoof care an indispensable part of preventing trouble. Snow, water, mud, or mucky stalls are the ingredients necessary for making your horse susceptible to that “dirty” word…thrush. Keep stalls clean and dry and use good absorbent bedding. There are a number of great permeable bedding products on the market today. Additionally, continue the daily practice of cleaning your horse’s feet. Keeping both stalls and feet dry and clean will greatly reduce the risk of thrush. Other threats pending in winter conditions can include abscesses forming by a hoof’s impact against frozen ground. Abscesses usually develop in early spring and can be attributed to undiagnosed bruising that started in winter.

     Hoof growth will often slow in winter, but carry on with your farrier to provide scheduled trims for keeping proper shape and avoiding any unnatural wear. If your horse is shod, removing them in winter permits the hoof wall to thicken and the sole the ability to harden. Constant shoe wear also contributes to contracted heels; if possible, winter is a good time to remove shoes and allow hooves to rest. If shoes remain in winter due to riding preferences or for a preexisting condition, it is possible for snow to accumulate between the shoe and the sole creating a ball (snowball). This will make walking unbalanced, difficult or even tendon and joint strain. Eliminate the buildup by having your farrier apply a snowball pad; this is a plastic pad with a ball in the center preventing snow and ice from building around the shoe. Another option is to clean out the hooves and apply petroleum jelly or Crisco all-vegetable shortening to the soles with a hoof brush. Repeat this process as long as there is snow cover on the ground. Maintaining good nutrition and routine care are beneficial in preserving quality hooves.

More Hoof Care Tips from the Trail - See...“Horse Bathing”

Exercise

     Want a workout in winter? Go work or ride your horse; it is healthy. Both may appreciate the scenery change and departure of normality; plus it may furnish entertainment from all the pent-up of winter days. There are measures to consider guaranteeing a healthy pleasurable experience for you and the horse. “Light” is the answer. Use caution, go slow and eliminate any strenuous activity creating labored breathing and/or profuse sweating. Permanent damage or even potential death are possibilities under excessive conditions in the cold. Damage to the lungs may result from the rapid and deep inhalation of freezing air. Chilling will occur from sweating in cold weather causing serious situations, so cover yourself with adequate clothing and blanket your horse’s croup. This will keep his muscles from getting cold and producing spasms from the exercise. Do not over exert. Cool your horse out making sure he is completely dry after your sessions. Never put your horse out in the cold with any apparent wetness…again, he must be completely dry! Go light, do not over exert you or your hose and enjoy the season with time spent together.

Medical

Take this time to check and restock your first aid kits, both human and horse. Stock up on extra pharmaceuticals should your veterinarian be unable to reach you.

It is essential for your horse to chew/grind his food obtaining all the energy he needs, especially since energy needs increase during the colder months. Have your horse’s teeth checked annually either in wintertime or springtime. Have this performed by an equine dentist.

A regular parasite control program should be established for your horse. If you use a commercial program, plan to de-worm after the first heavy frost. Use one that kills bot larvae. Consult with your veterinarian for a program suitable for your location and horse.

For a natural parasite control program, adequate copper and sulfur levels must be maintained in your horse’s system. Parasites internal and external will not stay with a horse if these levels are sufficient. Regular daily feedings of these minerals is the source also provide garlic which contains natural sulfur and sometimes reduces the incidences of interior parasites. It should not entirely take the place of a balanced diet with the correct amounts of copper and sulfur. Eventually, I will devote a blog to this topic.

Winterize the Barn/Shelter

     Nature has provided horses the ability to survive extreme weather conditions through freedoms to grow protective coverings, herd together and to roam thousands of acres to seek shelter and nutrition. The domestic horse is not afforded these freedoms and relies on the horse owner to provide these sufficient necessities. Horses properly managed by their holders providing standard care can overcome the cold, wind, rain or snow. It is when these conditions come in any combination or are extreme that make necessary the need of extra aid and protection for your horse.

     Most domestic horses are contained on a small fraction of the acreage compared to their natural counterparts. The amount of natural shelter on this acreage is probably zero to none, and is one of the necessities the horse owner needs to provide. A barn with adequate room in a stall or a 3-sided run-in shed preferably facing south allowing full heat from the sun needs to be available to the horse. Here he can escape the elements of extreme weather. Whether a run in or a barn, new or old, simple or elaborate the requirement of adequacy, security, safety and basic comfort for your horse should be foremost in your maintenance practices. The preservation of the structure requires endless duties, but it is possible to reduce those daunting tasks with a scheduled program. So, get out the pencil and paper or better yet print this list out and go complete those items that need your attention while the weather is still on your side. In a few weeks, whether it is our horse or our family, we all will want to feel warm and cozy.

     Your goal is to eliminate drafts, while at the same time provide proper ventilation, an airtight barn leads to health issues. Good air quality must be maintained.

Shelter

Clean Facility Completely
Strip stalls, check mats for repairs and replenish bedding (extra bedding in winter)
Watch for ammonia build up – use baking soda/vinegar/Woody Pet – clean out regularly
Determine bedding requirements and have enough for several weeks on hand
Remove cobwebs
Sweep entire area
Properly store tools and any other detrimental items away from horse traffic
For extra traction on barn tools, wrap the handles of pitchforks, brooms, rakes, etc. with vet wrap for gloved hands in the winter and for summer, it cuts down on acquiring calluses.

Check and Repair

Roof for leaks
Insulate attic areas and pipes coming into the facility
Install a hydrant that is self-draining or a shut off valve below the frost line
Drain pipes/hoses/buckets after each use
Caulk around windows, doors, etc. – fill cracks
Weather-stripping around doors
Keep areas under doorways dry and clean preventing slips/freezing shut
Cover the inside of windows with plastic in heated areas
Check feed bins/hay racks for looseness
Check buckets for cracks and sharp edges – replace if necessary
Loose boards or protruding nails in barns/stalls/run-ins
Check fire extinguishers/detectors
Preform Fire/Evacuation drills
Test heating elements in automatic waters
Check the cores in heated buckets and tank heaters
Implement a rodent control program – they seem to like the warmth inside too - barn cats do great work – have them spayed or neutered

Consider barn dogs and cats. Create warm sleeping areas for those who winter in the barn. Boxes, travel crates, etc work well for them with added bedding or old blankets for cozy comfort. In addition, when stockpiling winter emergency supplies think about their needs too.

Blankets

      During the seasonal changes from fall to winter, avoid blanketing the horse so he may develop a thick coat and acclimate to the dropping temperatures. As the season continues to change, use caution with blankets. If your horse has adjusted correctly to the dropping temperatures, blankets are usually not necessary for a healthy horse provided he has shelter from the wind, rain, snow, etc. However, use common sense when blanketing. If the weather conditions are extreme; below freezing, windy, raining or snowing hard and your horse is outside, a well-fitting waterproof wind-resistant blanket is best. While on your horse, monitor for placement, dryness and cleanliness. Blankets may slip causing rubbing and sores. Broken hairs are an indication of chaffing. Wet blankets will do more harm than good causing chill not warmth and dirty ones could cause fungal infections. If the weather changes to sunny and or temperatures rise, removal is usually necessary.

Hang up blankets to air, examine for needed repairs, and check fasteners and straps.

Tips from the Trail:

Looping small elastic bands around the blanket fasteners helps prevent an accidental undo

Dental floss is great for blanket repairs. Sew up those rips with the floss. This is not waterproof so stick duct tape on top of sewn area. The floss will hold the rips better than duct tape alone. In addition, if the duct tape does not stick because the adhesive is cold - sew the duct tape on with the floss.

Use iron on waterproof patches for blanket rips

Suspenders make great replacement leg straps

Convert an old sleeping bag into a warm quilted stable rug for the winter by removing the zipper and cut out a semi-circular section at one end for the neck and shoulders. Stitch around the edges, adding a colored binding. Use wide strips of Velcro for breast straps, belly straps and sew in place.

Adding reflective tape on your horse’s blankets will make it much easier to find him in a field in the dark.

Measure for a Proper Fitting Blanket:

Using a long tape measure (approximately 80” long), start at the front center of the chest (A) and carry it around the widest part of the shoulder. Continue down the barrel, along the flank around to the center back of the tail (B). Usually blankets come in even whole sizes, so if the measurement is an odd number or fraction, go up to the next even whole number for the best fit.

NOTE:
The best solution for keeping a horse warm during cold weather is to buy the best quality hay opposed to the best quality blanket.

Winterize the Yard/Equipment

Yard

Repair fences and posts
Service heaters and well pumps
Insulate well house and apply heat tape/insulate where needed
Check pipes/spouts and faucets – insulate and check heat tape is working properly
Cut back large branches/bushes close to shelter in the event of an ice storm
Pick up obstacles, poles, jumps or anything that may be hazardous if hidden by snowfall
Fill holes in front of gates, doors, etc. where snow may cover or water may freeze
Give your pastures a boost – fall is a good time for mineralization of your pastures – contact your local agricultural department for recommendations

Equipment

Inspect hydraulic, fuel and electrical systems on tractors

Lube engine with a lighter-weight winter oil
Check anti-freeze and determine if a full replacement is necessary
Diesel tractors will need a fuel additive for those below zero temperatures
Keep tractor full of fuel

Check batteries in vehicles
Examine the ignition system
Install snow tires/all season radials
Keep a set of chains in vehicle
Check the brakes
Check the exhaust system – leaks vent carbon monoxide to the inside
Check heater
Check defroster
Check windshield wipers – fill with winter-grade washer fluid
Keep vehicle full of fuel

Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.

With all the preparations, you have gained the comfort knowing your horse is ready to weather the season. 
Go enjoy it with your horse!

Go Green Tips:

• plain Crest toothpaste is great to polish silver. Dab on a cloth and polish away
• distilled vinegar or some say kerosene on heavy corrosion works for rusty tools (hoof nippers, fence tools, pliers, etc.) Overnight, soak them in a bucket of vinegar or kerosene to remove rust. Extreme rust may need to be soaked longer
  

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

Let us ride together, blowing mane and hair, careless of the weather, miles ahead of care, ring of hoof and snaffle, swing of waist and hip, trotting down the twisted road with the world let slip. 
Anonymous

Horse Bathing

Okay everyone, I know my last blog was lengthy, hopefully not looked upon as protracting but informative. I will go a little lighter for this one - ah, only just a bit. I understand most like short and sweet subject matters on the internet, but my writings seem to always be the opposite. This is my third and last blog of the “Grooming” series; then off to relaxing a bit and collecting thoughts for the next posts of winter topics.

    What is a Well- Maintained Horse? 

     ... one that portrays a healthy mental, physical and emotional reflection of the magnificent creature we call horse. These aspects are illustrated honorably through gallant strength, noble loyalty and majestic beauty. This vision represents the essential qualities of a truly vigorous and beautiful horse. They are achieved by the horse owner's countless exertions in delivering the responsibilities required through internal and external efforts. An appropriate management program, encouragement of a horse's natural behaviors along with a good partner relationship accomplishes a "well-maintained" horse. First, a good management program covers a wide range of practices in supplying your horse; from a suitable facility to the necessities needed to remain healthy. Second, a proper environment produced by the horse owner that supports the horse's natural behaviors thus allowing him the liberties to be a horse. And lastly, the two together, horse and human build a relationship through trust and respect. The last one goes hand and hand with the first two so, while you constantly continue with the first two, the third will always be evolving. Proper ethical conditions and treatments contribute greatly to the creation of a well-maintained horse.

     One gratifying journey for me is to polish all these efforts in a way that can be expressed through my horses. A worthy grooming/bathing system offers many benefits for both horse and human. This practice offers  another way for us to learn and understand each other; more time together to construct our future. In the majority of attitudes I have seen, horse caretakers view their horse through a filter of their own desires, rather than the “well being” of the species. The horse itself must be considered in order to ever possibly reach the absolute well-maintained horse. Harmonize the management and freedom of your horse. Learn to fulfill the intricacies he requires as an individual horse, and enable yourself to acquire the ability to teach him functional patterns to produce your desires from him. In doing so, you will create the best horse you can imagine - a partner who is stable, well-mannered, co-operative, and affectionate, with an open, communicative personality that is curious and quick to learn. Through knowledge, you act, and through understanding, you teach. These skills reflect the power to balance the different worlds of horse and human. Once you achieve and maintain the internal necessaries of mind, body and soul of your horse, you can polish it externally and your horse will portray its harmonious health through an outward shine of beauty.

     When channeled in the right direction, a horse's power provides great service and great pleasure. Mismanagement of this power is not only costly, but can be instead a source of great harm, injury and death. For both human and horse to have a safe and healthy relationship, it is extremely important to stay focused on establishing a serious bond. Building this relationship requires responsibilities for both partners. The horse needs to learn how to be familiar with your actions and to understand what his contribution to the relationship will be. You need to think safety and exercise caution whenever you interact with a horse and learn your horse's behaviors.

     Understanding horse behavior is a step towards connecting the different world they live in with ours. We choose to be a part of their world and if you consider their needs properly, they may be more inclined to be a part of yours.  I realized early on that the horse must be treated with respect in order to achieve my goals. It is not just about me, but both of us. Through my studies, I ran across an organization, White Horse Equine Ethology Project (W.H.E.E.P.), this organization emphasizes the importance of ethical treatment to the species. Through years of experiments, they arrived at freedoms the species must acquire, from man, in order to remain "healthy" mentally, physically and emotionally. We should graciously provide these five fundamental freedoms to a horse since we choose to interject ourselves into their lives. In addition, we should have an informed, educated and humane philosophy that truly serves as a guide every horseman should use in attaining an ethical partnership and a well-maintained horse.

THE FIVE FREEDOMS

Freedom from hunger and thirst by allowing access to fresh water and a complete diet to maintain a healthy vigorous horse

~~~~~~~~~~

Freedom from discomfort by providing the appropriate surroundings including a safe and secure environment, adequate shelter and a comfortable resting area

~~~~~~~~~~

 

Freedom form pain, injury or disease by prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment

~~~~~~~~~~

Freedom to express normal behavior by providing ample liberty, the proper facilities and company of the animal's own kind

~~~~~~~~~~

Freedom from fear and distress by ensuring conditions and treatment, which avoid mental, physical and emotional suffering

~~~~~~~~~~
The attitude expressed in the 5 freedoms provides doors to entering the world of the horse. 
Open them and your journeys will be endless roads filled with intrigue and gratification, for 
both you and your horse. Bathing can be used as one avenue to build the relationship.

Basic Bathing

This blog pertains to those who know their horse will accept bathing. If your horse has not been prepared, do not attempt this task without a skilled person or until you receive further knowledge and training.

Basic Bathing

Fall is here and the change in weather will not permit an extensive bath described in this blog unless of course, your climate is different or you have a climate-controlled facility. I am just now getting this posted and hopefully the information will assist someone now or possibly in the warmer days that always lie ahead. Just a tip to remember, washing your horse with shampoos not only removes the dirt but, the natural oils too. Therefore, limit the frequency of bathing to allow the beneficial oils to remain. Sometimes time may not warrant a complete bath. Below are some fleeting remedies for these instances and a few approaches to other related situations.

Preparation:

Prepare supplies in advance for the bath. Be sure to pick a warm day and use warm water. Consider your clothing, you will get wet!

There are a few approaches one may choose to bath a horse. Options like with or without a bucket, sponge, rag, etc., are up to individual, there is no rule. Decide the best method where you and your horse are most comfortable.

If necessary, tie your horse securely and safely in an area that will not get muddy. Think about the movements you and your horse could make on slippery ground and use precautions that would prevent either of you from falling. As I have mentioned before, I am not a fan of cross tying. This practice can be dangerous, so be careful you use it.

Shampooing / Conditioning:

     Use a gentle shampoo/conditioner or one that suits your horse’s particular needs. For homemade shampoo recipes/remedies - See blog...  "Grooming Tools/Supplies - A Road Traveled ”. Depending on the situation, it may be necessary to periodically wash your horse with a mixture of iodine scrub and water (2 parts iodine scrub: 1 part water). Tsar is susceptible to insect bites and this remedy helps in the prevention of an infection. When I use this treatment, the iodine mixture remains on him for about 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing. I have various shampoo recipes/remedies that are available if needed. They are all labeled and stored in reused 128oz cranberry juice containers. Two ounce pumps are affixed to each container and can be transferred easily into a squeeze bottle (reused dish soap bottle or condiment container) as needed. This system applies to the conditioners, oils, and other treatments as well. Note: To conserve your shampoos, conditioners, etc, spray bottles can be used in place of squeeze bottles.

     Groom your horse before the bath. This removes the heavy soil and any debris making the bath less laborious. Pay attention to your horse’s body language throughout the process. Learn to understand his language when he attempts to communicate so that you can perceive the situation correctly. Take your time and teach him to be well-mannered. With empathy and repetition, your horse will understand how to be respectful, even if becomes necessary to correct his behavior.

    Preparing for the bath, an adjustable spray nozzle on the end of the hose with a shut off control is a personal preference. Controlling the shut off of the water as well as the pressure amount is both economical and Eco-friendly. Consider the pressure of the water making it comfortable to the horse’s skin. Use warm water, let your horse see the hose and smell and or mouth it, if necessary - of course not to the point where he controls it. If this is an issue, one can try reversing the psychology and give the horse what it wants. With energy (a bit more than what the horse is exerting) push the hose in its mouth and move it around. You will find that your horse is no longer interested and will refrain from his attempts to dominate the hose. Now, back to bathing, stand facing your horse’s shoulder area, spray the ground at your horse’s feet allowing him to acquaint himself with what is about to happen. Slowly and gently, proceed to apply water to his front feet. Let him adjust to this action and the water temperature. Continue up his front leg, shoulder and neck, down the back, include the belly then to the dock. Proceed down his hind leg to his hoof. Continue pattern on the other side. Now, stand facing the horse’s hip area, cautiously saturate the tail and lift tail to spray the anal area and the areas below.

     Once the horse is completely wet, squeeze shampoo into your palm, onto your horse, sponge or into a bucket, etc. whichever you prefer. Using circular motions, scrub your horse starting at the neck and include the mane and crown. Pay particular attention to the crown, down the spine to the dock area. Continue applying shampoo when needed and proceed to the belly and legs, covering the entire body. A good massage with my hands and fingers at this stage is in store for my horses. Sometimes I will bring out the people back-scratcher, giving them a nice round of scratching. They both love their scratches! Now, on to the tail, and by this time, another hosing will be necessary to saturate. Squeeze the shampoo directly onto the tail or submerge the tail into a sudsy bucket – you will need help for that one! Scrub the tail good with your fingers, like one would do to their own scalp/hair and include the entire tailbone. Gently, wash the anal area and one can continue with areas below.

     You will need to clean the teats if you have a mare and clean the sheath if you have a gelding. These areas need cleaning regularly. Geldings and stallions build up grime called smegma inside the sheath, which can cause discomfort and infection. For a gelding, a minimum of once a year but twice is considered best. If it is not something you are comfortable doing yourself, enlist your veterinarian to clean your horse’s sheath during his or her annual visit. For a mare, it may be necessary to clean more often. Make it a regular part of your bathing routine or clean more often if your mare/gelding is particularly prone to collecting dirt. Stallions will require more frequent cleaning. Addressing these procedures will be future topics.

Depending on how dirty the horse, a second application of shampoo may be necessary.

Repeat these steps when using a conditioner on your horse after shampooing.

Tips from the Trail:

Do not let areas dry out on your horse until you finish washing him entirely. Keep your horse moist by applying more water, use a light spray adjustment on the nozzle.

Wet down, shampoo, scrub and rinse one side of your horse at a time. Then repeat on other side.

Most horses do not like to have water squirted at their face. A more comfortable approach to washing the face; a bucket filled with clean soapy* warm water and a rag, sponge, etc. Using the applicator of your choice, dip it in the bucket and wring out. Gently wipe the face around the eyes, then inside the ears, mouth and nostrils. Now, rinse these areas with the applicator using fresh clean warm water.
* go sparingly with the shampoo

Rinsing:

 When rinsing your horse use warm water from the hose, wet him down thoroughly starting at the neck, and follow his body down the back, shoulders to tail and down the legs. Leave no shampoo/ conditioner residue; if left in it may cause the hair to dry out, resulting in a dull looking coat and or irritation.

Wow you are almost done!

Tip: This is a good time to rub off the dead cells of your horse’s chestnuts and ergots with your fingernails. See ...“Horse Grooming - Behaviors”

With a sweat scraper or your hand, scrape away the excess water on your horse. Pay particular attention to under the belly, all the water collects there. Dry him with clean rags and or take to a sunny spot (weather permitting) and the two of you can just mosey until the horse dries.

Tip: Do not put him out wet; he will probably roll.

It is time to brush him out entirely from head to hoof and step back and look at your successful trip! 

Recipes / Remedies:

1)
Use baby wipes for cleaning faces to teats. They are cheaper than the wipes that are made specifically for horse grooming and they work just as well.

2)
Instead of buying expensive horse shampoos, just use a mild dish soap or mild human hair shampoo. Any kid’s no tear shampoo works great since it is mild and does not sting when it gets in eyes.

3)
Give your horse a "Dry Bath". Fill your bucket with very warm water and add 3 drops of baby oil. Place rag in water and squeeze out excess; rub horse down. Then dry your horse with a clean dry rag. A lot of dirt will be removed and the horse will look clean and shiny. The horse smells like baby oil and they love the rub down. Note: Groom first.

4)
For a non-drying better than show-sheen shine, fill a small bucket with warm water, a splash of apple cider vinegar and a light squeeze of baby oil. Use a washrag and wring it out real well, then rub over the horse until they are gleaming. The vinegar cuts the baby oil just enough so that the horse is not greasy. The coat will shine! Note: Groom first.

5)
For scurfy coats, Treat with a Blend of Rosemary:

- Add approximately ½ pint of water to 1 tablespoonful of dried rosemary
- Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 minutes
- Remove from the heat and keeping covered, leave for 5 to 6 hours or overnight
- Strain off the rosemary and use the liquid as a rinse after shampooing

Can be used on mane and tail 

Variation:

Mix above blend with a little castor oil which stimulates long and supple hair growth. Apply as a rinse after shampooing, message well, then rinse. 

Can be used on mane and tail

6)
Remove scruff by rubbing area(s) with a cloth soaked in witch hazel

For White Legs:

7)
Get socks gleaming white with a mixture of Dawn dish soap, Liquid Bluing and a tablespoon of bleach. Mix in warm water in a small bucket, and paint on with a sponge. Rinse out. Note: Clean one leg at a time.

8)
Another great leg whitener: blue stone (copper of sulfate). This gravel actually has a blue tone. Put some in a bucket, add about an equal amount of water and then apply the water to the legs, enough to coat the white area so the legs look blue. Let it sit for a little while and hose off. Legs will be white. Note: Clean one leg at a time.

9)
For white legs that are bathed often, dissolve half a bar of Castile soap in hot water and scrub away. The soap cleans and whitens the legs and has natural conditioners so that it does not dry out the skin.

10)
Pat cornstarch with a sponge onto wet, thoroughly shampooed and rinsed white legs. When dry, brush off and it will leave the legs sparkling white. It can be used on other white markings, but most horses will not like it on their faces. The cornstarch seems to repel dirt and stable stains too.

11)
Use baking soda and vinegar for small dirt stains. Make a paste of baking soda and a little bit of water and rub it into the stain. Let set and then pour vinegar over it. Foams the stains right out. Rinse and wipe off with a rag.


For Yellow Tails:

12)
Pour white vinegar in a bucket, swish the tail around in it and rinse out after 5-10 minutes. This procedure may need repeating.

13)
Laundry bluing diluted in a bucket of water will help tails get white, be careful not to leave it on too long or you will have a baby blue tail.

14)
Fanci-Full White Minx, found near the hair dye section, will whiten a tail.

15)
For a bad case of “dirty tail”, use hydrogen peroxide. Spray or pour it on the clean tail, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then rinse. May require a few times to get tail truly white, but be sure to THOROUGHLY condition the tail afterward.

For more recipes See... 
" Horse Grooming Tools and Supplies"
  "Horse Grooming - Behaviors”

Liniments:

Homemade liniments are applied with friction; that is, a liniment is always rubbed in. Liniments are especially useful in hot weather to help a horse cool down: the alcohols added to the acting substances helps them to evaporate quickly, and the oil contents will cause the capillaries in the skin to dilate. Many horse owners apply liniments to the legs as a brace and then wrap over it. In this case, they should be sure that the liniment is not too strong or it may cause blistering of the skin. Liniments may be used on the legs and body, but should not be applied to more sensitive areas such as the head, dock, or groin of the horse. The body may also be too sensitive to apply liniments especially if the horse was recently body-clipped. Liniments can be a great relief for sore muscles.

1)
Wintergreen rubbing alcohol is a great leg brace.

Homemade Liniments:

2)
Tea Rinse -
Boil a quart of water with 4-8 tea bags and produce a tea concentrate. Dilute in a bucket with water and vinegar or alcohol. Sponge away. Sometimes I do a quick rinse but most of the time I just sponge it on after hosing the horses off. The alcohol will cool the horse off.

3)
Cucumber Wash* -
Slice 2-3 large cucumbers in a bucket with water. Allow sitting for about an hour and then sponge it on horse. Do not wring the sponge in the bucket but instead just take out the cucumber slices, rinse them off and give it to the horses as treats while sponging them off. My horses love to eat cucumber. Vegetables are healthy and make wonderful treats for your horses. See...Treat with Respect.

*This vegetable has a very high water, silicon, and sodium content, which helps soothe and cool externally as well as an aid in toning and firming the skin, drawing excess water from the tissue reducing puffiness. Internally, fresh cucumber is a source of vitamin C, vitamin K, and potassium, also providing dietary fiber, vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate (folic acid), pantothenic acid (a B complex vitamin that is essential for growth), magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese - wow!.

For a cool weather after ride "wash" - mix up a little of your favorite liniment and water in a spray bottle and spray it on, scrape it off, cover horse with a cooler.

     I wanted to bring up an area of concern. Some people ride and or work their horses until they are infused with sweat. Then they spray them down afterwards with cold water. Medical complications could result if human marathon runners engaged in this practice, so why do it to the horse. This is not a good habit to form, especially when the horse is hot and the water cold. This will close the horse’s pores too quickly and may cause a mild case of "Azorturia" (similarities to a very bad case of tying up or founder) which is very painful and can be fatal. It is caused by a concentration of lactic acid in the tissues. The best remedy for cooling down an overheated horse is to walk him around. If you should then choose to hose him down, use only warm water after he has completely cooled off. Start hosing the legs first, then proceed to the chest, neck, withers and shoulders. Finish with the hindquarters and the area over the kidneys.

Once the bath is complete, step back and look at your success!

Go Green Tips:

• economical solution to make your shampoo/conditioner last longer and more convenient too; empty shampoo into a 128oz reused container. Buy a 2oz pump and insert into container.
• reuse onions bags to air dry sponges. Get a long piece of baler's twine and loop it in and out a top line of openings in the bag (same concept as the original tie at top of bag when purchased). To keep twine in place; knot each end of twine by knotting one strand to the opening thread of the bag - repeat on other side. Cut each side of twine to the length desired. Tie knots at opposite ends of twine. Use these threads to hang bag. 
• Set outside all clipped, trimmed and shedded hair from your animals, and include yours too. The insect-eating birds love to build their nests with it.

  Any Go Green Ideas?

Email us: info@agreenhorse.com

The horse is God's gift to mankind. 

Arabian Proverb