Fireproof Your Barn
There are times when nature shows its ugly wrath and it can take many forms - wind, flood, quake and fire. They all wreak havoc across the land – this is nature and it is inevitable. An earlier blog discussed some planning and preparing for an evacuation from outside disasters. Now, I would like to extend the conversation to fires. Whether a fire is caused by nature or by some other means, either require plans to prevent, maintain, prepare and execute. There are no guarantees that any program will eliminate the possibilities of damage; but, a proactive stance is a far better route than having to deal with a reactive consequence because of a lack of planning. Be safe, not sorry and protect your barn against a fire!
Prevention and safety are key measures to address, and require a comprehensive approach from identifying potential hazards, to taking every possible precaution. It is vital for horse owners, barn managers, trainers and anyone else involved with horses, on the property, to take responsibility for fire prevention and safety. Fire is a tragic devastation no one wants to contend and it is probably the most terrible form of death for a horse when trapped within the stable or barn. Fire safety and prevention assessments should become important components of your ‘Fire Program". With just a bit of knowledge, a lot of common sense and valuable preparation, a planned program is possible and executable. Safety must be on everyone’s mind at all times so, always be conscious of it; this is advantageous.
FACTS:
In the event of a wildfire, in your area, NEVER wait to move your horses. Wildfires can spread to cover many miles in just minutes.
Barns are made of and usually contain flammable materials: wood, stall bedding, hay, manure, leather, blankets, ropes, and highly combustible materials i.e. chemicals, solvents, oils...and the list goes on…take precautionary measures when storing, handling and disposing these items! Very few buildings are more flammable than a barn because of its contents. Most barns are a three-alarm fire waiting to happen. Do NOT store hay, stall bedding, manure piles, motorized farm equipment, lawnmowers, gasoline, propane, etc. inside or near your barn – they are highly combustible and are known to start fires. These items should be stored at a distance of at least 50’ from the barn. The burning rate of loose straw bedding is approximately 3 times that of burning gasoline. Hay can start fires through spontaneous combustion. Make sure hay has been cured properly before storing. With manure piles, the same applies – keep them away from your barn. Wear natural fiber clothing and non-rubber soled shoes or boots in the barn; synthetic, rubber or nylon clothing will melt. Exposed skin begins to burn at 140◦. The above applies to halters and lead ropes for horses too. Use leather or cotton ones and hang at each stall to use in an evacuation. Metal can get hot enough to burn you and your horse so, if you have to, use ones with the least amount possible.
Frayed electrical wiring, short circuits and overloaded circuits are a leading cause of barn fires. Smoking is one of the five top causes of fires in the United States. Most horses that die in barn fires die of smoke inhalation – all too often, a fire smolders for a while, releasing toxic gases that kill the barn occupants before anyone even realizes there is a fire.
Frayed electrical wiring, short circuits and overloaded circuits are a leading cause of barn fires. Smoking is one of the five top causes of fires in the United States. Most horses that die in barn fires die of smoke inhalation – all too often, a fire smolders for a while, releasing toxic gases that kill the barn occupants before anyone even realizes there is a fire.
PLAN NOW:
Remember those fire drills in school? Have an evacuation plan in place and periodically, at least twice a year, perform them on your property – involve everyone. This is a way to see if your plan works and if adjustments are necessary. Perform the drills during the day and night – leave the lights out to simulate no electricity. Having an effective evacuation plan will get you and your horse out safely. The Plan should be posted throughout your facility, where it is visible to everyone.
An Evacuation Plan should Include:
- Stay CALM and DO NOT PANIC
- Know to call 911 first
- Open all outside access doors and gates to barn or stable area
- Get humans out of the barn
- *Begin evacuating horses
- Keep roads, driveways on your property clear for easy fire department access
- Know where fire pull stations are located
- Know where the fire fighting equipment is and how to use “first aid”:
- Hand extinguishers
- Water supply lines for hoses and buckets
- Shovels to spread dirt/sand over smoldering items or small flames
- Ladders for attention to roof
- Know to step aside when firefighters arrive - Use safety and do not attempt to evacuate horses or fight the fire if human lives are in danger
NUMBERS:
Depending on your particular set up, the following may or may not be practical. Whatever your situation, reading the contents gives you learned knowledge, which is priceless.
- Post important numbers - vet, farrier, emergency departments and in big red letters “Dial 911” for fire emergencies. Display numbers at all phone locations
- Post directions to your facility by all phones, giving multiple options and landmarks
- Ground all phone lines
- IMPORTANT NOTE: Cordless phones will not work in the event of an electrical failure – the old-fashioned rotary dial phones or cell phones should be used
- Make sure your house numbers are visible and readable from the street
- Post “NO SMOKING” signs in and around your barn. Strictly enforce this ban! There should be no smoking within a minimum of 20’ around the barn. Consider a “NO SMOKING” ban on trails. It would be best to provide designated smoking areas supplying containers for cigarette disposable – use sand in non-flammable containers.
Visible House Numbers from Street
Post " No Smoking" Signs
EVACUATION:
Evacuating horses should be customary and practiced often to familiarize you as well as the horses.
- Open ALL outside access doors and gates.
- Consider which horse should be evacuated first, this should be done BEFORE a fire. The oldest, weakest or a nervous-high strung horse should be stalled closest to an exit door.
- For each horse, keep a halter and lead rope on the outside of their stall door.
- For each horse, keep a scarf or bandanna on the outside of their stall door – it may be necessary to blindfold them during a fire. They usually spook from sights and sounds. Again, blindfolding your horses periodically will get them accustomed to this procedure. DO NOT wait for an actual fire to do this!
- All horses should be taught to halter and lead out in the dark; here again, DO NOT wait for an actual fire to do this.
- If your property is set up with a run from the barn to pasture and there is no time for haltering, open stall doors and let them loose heading for a pasture away from the fire. This is NOT the best strategy because, in a fire, some horses will revert to their survival instinct and try to return to the safety of their stall. With that said, it is an option, use good judgment and be prepared.
- Once the horses have been evacuated to their safe place, try to safely tie or secure them. Someone should stay with the horses to keep them as calm as possible – remember, you need to stay calm! Horses left alone will often try to join the rest of the herd, even if it means breaking through fences.
- Consider marking halters and lead ropes with “glow in the dark” paint or reflectors. In addition, the “glow in the dark” tape may be applied on stall doors, exit doors, along the walls and floors with arrows to outside exterior doors. Have a pet tag made with name and phone number of owner and attach it to halter.
- Apply fire retardant spray to a couple of wool or acrylic blankets that can be easily obtained to throw over a horse or human protecting them against flying sparks and falling debris. This retardant may need to be reapplied frequently.
ACCESS:
- Keep roads/driveways free of debris for easy access for fire fighters and their equipment.
- Clear away weeds, tress, brush, debris, etc. at least 50’ around the perimeter of the barn, this creates a firebreak.
- Keep barn aisles free from debris – sweep hay and bedding daily, remove and dispose of properly.
- Remove dust and cobwebs regularly, they are fire hazards.
- Exterior access doors should swing towards the outside. Swinging doors may create difficulty when leading horses out of the barn. People in panic usually do not think to pull doors towards them. The most convenient doors for normal daily use are sliding doors and for an unproblematic evacuation, as well.
- All exits should be clearly marked.
- Install approved fire doors and firewalls where necessary.
Roads/Driveways Free of Debris for Easy Access
FIRE FIGHTING EQUIPMENT:
- Extinguishers should be portable and powder type - ABC/BC “powder” (2A-10BC rated) – these are effective against almost all types of fires*
- Install them in locations that are easily visible and accessible
- One at each entrance to the barn
- In the tack room
- In the feed room
- In the bedding storage area
- They should be installed every 40’
- Protect extinguishers from freezing and have them checked yearly, by a professional.
- Check the gauge once a month to ensure they are fully charged.
- Every two months, turn them upside down and give them a few whacks with the flat of your hand to prevent the powder chemical from settling in the cylinders
- Have plenty of water supply lines inside and outside of the barn – keep hoses attached to them that will extend to all areas of the barn – water lines should be grounded.
- Keep empty water buckets throughout the inside and outside of your barn
- Have a few shovels in and around your barn
- Keep a ladder or two, located on the outside of your barn, that are capable of reaching rooftops
- Class A: Organic solids such as paper and wood
- Class B: Flammable liquid (not including those in Class F)
- Class C: Flammable gases
- Class D: Combustible metals, such as magnesium
- Class E: Live electrical items
- Class F: Cooking fat and oil
- Sodium bicarbonate
- Potassium bicarbonate
- Ammonium phosphate - also useful on class A fires
HOW to use a FIRE EXTINGUISHER:
During times of panic, we may forget some simple, but important things. One possibility is how to use an extinguisher. Below is the rudimentary catchword usually taught to help remember.
PASS:
P - Pull the safety pin out. A - Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire from about 4-10 feet away.
S - Squeeze the handle firmly.
S - Sweep the nozzle from side to side while aimed at the base of the fire.
ELECTRICAL:
- Install a grounded lightening rod system to protect your barn in electrical storms – check it regularly.
- Install smoke detectors (battery or hardwired) in every wing and on every level of your barn that sense heat and smoke. It may be necessary to install Co2 detectors depending upon the equipment in the barn. Possibly connect all detectors to an external siren or alarm in a place to be heard by someone when there is no one in the barn. Check detectors at least twice a year. Run these detectors, sirens, horns, etc. frequently, so your horses get familiar with the sounds.
- Install some power outlets on the outside of your barn. All outlets should be weatherproof and grounded.
- Cage all electrical light fixtures.
- Install the fuse box in the driest most dust free area in the barn, usually the tack room, feed room or the office.
- Try not to use extension cords, but if necessary use caution and use only industrial grade cords. DO NOT overload extension cords or any circuits. Keep cords away from horses and put them away after each use.
- Run armored BX cable or PVC piping to house electrical wires.
- Periodically check all electrical wiring and cords for damage. Rodents, rabbits, squirrels, etc. are known to chew through them. Barn cats are a great rodent eliminator. Remember have them spayed or neutered.
- Place electrical outlets out of the reach of horses.
- Install moisture and dust proof on/off switches.
- Electrical fence units should be UL approved and preferably of the intermittent current type vs. the continuous current units which are a higher fire risk. These units need to be located away from the barn in a weatherproof structure and they should be grounded.
STORAGE:
- Feed, hay, stall bedding, motorized farm equipment, manure piles, woodpiles and combustible materials should be housed in a separate building, with a distance of at least 50’ away. If this is not possible, store these items away from heat and spark sources. There are storage lockers on the market to house combustible materials.
- Dispose of used oily rags, paper or cloth, immediately and in proper containers away from the barn.
- Coat the wood in and on your barn with a fire retardant paint or stain. They should be non-toxic to children and animals. Applying this can give up to 75 percent more time to get your horses out of a burning structure. These applications may need to be reapplied on a regular basis to remain effective.
- If a trash can is necessary in the barn, use containers constructed of noncombustible material with self-closing lids, if possible.
Please note that these are general suggestions, guidelines and tips. Each facility is different, so plans must be designed specifically for your property. You should contact your local fire department for complete fire ordinances for your locality.
Go Green Tips:
- Replace incandescent bulbs with florescent. Use them in fixtures outside too, just make sure they are labeled for "outdoor use" and installed in protected and covered fixtures
- The most efficient task lighting in work areas and stalls comes from fixtures located on the sides, not above.
Any Go Green Ideas?
Email us: info@agreenhorse.com
Good luck, be prepared and stay safe!
Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
Author Unknown
Author Unknown
